Truck not cranking over like it used to..

[SZR48207]

I have a 2001 F150 V6 with about 75K on the odo. I have noticed lately that it takes a few more churns of the ignition for the engine to crank over. I would say about 15k miles ago, it consistently took 3 cranks before starting up, but now it does maybe 3.5 or up to 6.

I have regularly changed the oil at 5k with MC 5W-20, MC FL400S filter, non-ethanol gas, just changed the fuel filter out, battery is a few years old but still good. Truck runs fine.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[OVERKILL]

How old are the plugs?

 

[SZR48207]

New motorcraft double platinum and bosch wires at 65k.

 

[OVERKILL]

Gapped to spec?

 

[SZR48207]

I can't remember the number, but they were all gapped according to the Haynes manual.

 

[Colt45ws]

Have you checked the coil pack?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Reddy45
I can't remember the number, but they were all gapped according to the Haynes manual.


Number should be on the rad cradle...... On a nice sticker

 

[The Critic]

Start with the easy stuff first. Have the battery load-tested. Just because it's only a few years old does not mean it's still good. It isn't uncommon for batteries to die prematurely.

 

[Kestas]

Ditto about the battery. Does it crank slower than usual?

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

Number should be on the rad cradle...... On a nice sticker

All the Fords I've changed the plugs in use .054" for the gap. That's three different models spanning over 10 years.

 

[SZR48207]

Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
Have you checked the coil pack?


What should I check for?

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Start with the easy stuff first. Have the battery load-tested. Just because it's only a few years old does not mean it's still good. It isn't uncommon for batteries to die prematurely.


I will take it at lunch today to load test and check the electrical system health.

Originally Posted By: Kestas
Ditto about the battery. Does it crank slower than usual?


Actually no. The cranking speed is fine, but it just seems reluctant to start on the 3rd crank like it regularly used to. I could describe it like this: key in ignition, turn key forward, regular sounding crank, regular sounding crank, regular sounding crank, slight hesitation like something isn't "quite up there yet", half of a regular sounding crank, then engine starts.

Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

Number should be on the rad cradle...... On a nice sticker

All the Fords I've changed the plugs in use .054" for the gap. That's three different models spanning over 10 years.



I believe that is what I have mine gapped to.

 

[Papa Bear]

Battery !!

 

[kgb007stb]

1. Battery – battery itself, battery terminals yes they do corrode inside where not visible, load test, or buy a cheap hydrometer and measure each cell individually if it can be opened.

2. Alternator – load testing the alternator, alternators have three separate coils, thus if one or two fails, it can still provide enough juice for all accessories, don’t want to get too detailed here. Most people don’t have an oscilloscope, but diode ripple effect can tell a lot about diode life, diodes can go through only so many heat cycles and they usually fail before any coils. Don’t count on the stupid light here, that only powers the inside magnetic coil, has no relevance on whether properly charging unless you have a build in volt and amp meters.

3. Starter – could be the solenoid engagement or rusted contacts, sometimes worn starters cause problems engaging the flywheel causing perceived longer starting problems.

 

[Drew99GT]

Does it do it everytime, or only cold/after it hasn't run in a while? If the latter, could be something such as a bum fuel pressure regulator that is bleeding down fuel pressure. Try holding the key at the run position, but do not start it. Then turn the key to off and back to on a couple times, holding there (but still not starting it). That should make sure the fuel pressure is up to spec, then turn the key to start and see if it's any better.

 

[SZR48207]

Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Does it do it everytime, or only cold/after it hasn't run in a while? If the latter, could be something such as a bum fuel pressure regulator that is bleeding down fuel pressure. Try holding the key at the run position, but do not start it. Then turn the key to off and back to on a couple times, holding there (but still not starting it). That should make sure the fuel pressure is up to spec, then turn the key to start and see if it's any better.


Sometimes it happens in the morning, sometimes it happens after I have just driven for a while.

 

[Colt45ws]

Use an ohm meter to measure the amount of ohms between two posts that are closest. Im trying to figure out how to describe this. If you start at the front left post on the pack, the front right is its pair. You want to measure between those two. Then the middle set and the back set. IIRC, the normal range is 12-15K OHM. See if testing the coil pack is in the haynes.

 

[mechtech2]

Sounds like fuel. The coils are not 'getting up to speed' and then they are OK.
This is fuel.
Pump, filter, maybe sensors.
But first, clean Both ends of all cables and extra grounds.

 

[PandaBear]

What's the voltage of the battery at idle and when the engine is not started?

If the non-start voltage is good, it can only be starter. If it is the coil it won't start.

 

[eljefino]

For fuel a lot of the time you can turn the key on, listen for the pump to prime, wait a second or two, then turn it to start. Lessens crank times.

 

[OVERKILL]

Is the engine actually rolling over slower or is it just taking more rolls for it to "catch" ?