Trany dying in my 95 BMW 525i?

[Russell]

Upcoming auto trany failure at 207,000 miles

Looks like it has finally happened to me even after fluid and filter changes every 35,000 miles and driving like an adult.

Really starting to slip when shifting gears in Economy mode. Less so in sport mode. Was only slippling when shifting to 3rd. Now most every gear. Also I often get a slip then fairly hard shift. No trans code error. fair amount of slipping for shifts when under moderate acceleration. Less so when under light accelleration. I also experience an ocassional delayed reverse engagement.

Do not see any leaks and fluid level is fine when it was checked a month ago.

None of the trany shops in my area can seem to do any diagnostics without a teardown. None of the BMW indy shops can do diagnostics or rebuild tranys. They install used or rebuilt units. I have not checked the dealer yet for diagnostics

My BMW dealer wanted $4,900 for a rebuilt unit not including labor. local trany shop rebuilts were about 2 grand with a 12 month warrenty Then there is a rebuilt unit with torque convertor and electronics update from a nationally known euro trany rebuilder for $3,500 with a 30 month warrently to be installed by a local BMW indy shop.

Nope, I do not want to convert to a manual.

Guess I will just have a rebuilt trany installed after I confirm the problem. Hate this, but car is in excellent shape otherwise and do not want to buy another car at this time.

 

[Nick R]

Sounds like it. My friend had the tranmsission die in his 92 525i at a mere 155k or therabouts.

 

[rshaw125]

207,000 miles it did well. Why not try and find a used unit and install it yourself? $600 aprox.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: rshaw125
207,000 miles it did well. Why not try and find a used unit and install it yourself? $600 aprox.



it is my DD so i need it most every working day. A shop can turn it arounf in about 1.5 days.

However, I just do not have the time, location or skills to do this.

I aslo do not trust any used tranys. My 95 was the last year this model was made. Therefore any used trany will be older and possibly be on it;s last legs

 

[CourierDriver]

type in lubegard in search section, lots of good stuff

 

[SuperDave456]

My first thought is to either try Lubegard or maybe an Amsoil flush product.
I doubt either will kill it right out. You might squeeze a few more miles out of it and get some positive results.

I'm concerned for you. My 2002 Ford Taurus is approaching 200K miles, just rolled over 176K. I had the first trans service at 100K, shame on me I know, then I did another at 150K and did a drain and fill not too long ago and added a Magnefine to the line from the cooler back to the transmission.

Quick question. What type of filter do you have on that trans? Anything aftermarket like a Magnefine or spin on full flow filter?
Just curious.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
My first thought is to either try Lubegard or maybe an Amsoil flush product.
I doubt either will kill it right out. You might squeeze a few more miles out of it and get some positive results.

I'm concerned for you. My 2002 Ford Taurus is approaching 200K miles, just rolled over 176K. I had the first trans service at 100K, shame on me I know, then I did another at 150K and did a drain and fill not too long ago and added a Magnefine to the line from the cooler back to the transmission.

Quick question. What type of filter do you have on that trans? Anything aftermarket like a Magnefine or spin on full flow filter?
Just curious.

put lubegard red in about 5,000 miles ago. thought it helped a little. Got a lot worse in the past week. Filter is oe filter in the pan

 

[urchin]

Russell:

Why not flush the old fluid out and refill with the OE fluid make sure you change the filter if any.

One more thing ..I would be suspect of any electronic modules that operate and or control the tranny ...

It would be interesting to use a scan tool on the car to see if any "pending" codes for the transmission are being indicated.

Try this just for fun....disconnect your battery and after disconnecting make sure that you turn the key to start at least a couple of times to drain any remaining capacitance from the electronics/electrical system.

Let the car sit with the battery disconnected over night.

(MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ANY SECURITY CODES FOR YOUR RADIO..ect!!!)

Reconnect the battery start the car and let the car sit at idle in Park for at least a couple of minutes (WITHOUT TOUCHING EITHER THE
ACCELERATOR PEDAL OR TRANSMISSION SELECTOR.

Then drive the car for at least 30 minutes some of it on the highway some around town.

Does this make a difference?

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: urchin
Russell:

Why not flush the old fluid out and refill with the OE fluid make sure you change the filter if any.

One more thing ..I would be suspect of any electronic modules that operate and or control the tranny ...

It would be interesting to use a scan tool on the car to see if any "pending" codes for the transmission are being indicated.

Try this just for fun....disconnect your battery and after disconnecting make sure that you turn the key to start at least a couple of times to drain any remaining capacitance from the electronics/electrical system.

Let the car sit with the battery disconnected over night.

(MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ANY SECURITY CODES FOR YOUR RADIO..ect!!!)

Reconnect the battery start the car and let the car sit at idle in Park for at least a couple of minutes (WITHOUT TOUCHING EITHER THE
ACCELERATOR PEDAL OR TRANSMISSION SELECTOR.

Then drive the car for at least 30 minutes some of it on the highway some around town.

Does this make a difference?


Great ideas. May try the battery trick this weekend. Even so I did the battery disconnect for another reason about a month ago. However see below.

For some reason my BMW indy could not get any of their code readers to read the codes when I stopped by today. My Peake tool would not work either. No trany work until that issue is resolved. This will be looked at Friday.

I also had a highly recomended independent trany shop look the trany. They felt it is worn out. They would get a rebuilt unit rather then rebuild it. I am waiting for the price etc. Turns out they are an authorized ZF repair shop according to my bmw indy. Might consider them.

 

[urchin]

Russell:

Indeed the failure of the scan tools to read anything at all from the ECU modules is a flag for sure.

I wonder if this is where your problem lies? It might be the electronics.

 

[kschachn]

Most code readers cannot read the BMW transmission module codes. Only certain ones can, BMW dealers have one. I have a friend that has a copy of the current laptop diagnostic software for modern BMW cars (a huge undertaking to get operating) and this too can read the codes on my '94 530i. But a standard OBD-II reader cannot.

Note that there are certain transmission related codes that can make it to the engine module which an OBD-II reader can see, but these aren't the specific codes stored in the transmission module.

Google "reading BMW transmission module codes" or something like that and you can get more information.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Most code readers cannot read the BMW transmission module codes. Only certain ones can, BMW dealers have one. I have a friend that has a copy of the current laptop diagnostic software for modern BMW cars (a huge undertaking to get operating) and this too can read the codes on my '94 530i. But a standard OBD-II reader cannot.

Note that there are certain transmission related codes that can make it to the engine module which an OBD-II reader can see, but these aren't the specific codes stored in the transmission module.

Google "reading BMW transmission module codes" or something like that and you can get more information.


No codes are being read. My BMW mechanic tried about 4 different code readers and could not read any codes including the trany codes.. He has the proper readers for boteh OBd I and II cars. Also my Peake code/reset tool is designed for this model and did not read codes. Code and error code instead. However it will reset oil and inspection lights. I used to work fine to read codes. You are correct that soem readers will not read BMW transmission codes..

 

[urchin]

Russell:

After you try my suggestions...and after you drive the car...at least 30 minutes...try using your scan tool again...

Keep us updated..I'm subscribed to this thread. I hope the answer to your problem is an easy one.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: Russell
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Most code readers cannot read the BMW transmission module codes. Only certain ones can, BMW dealers have one. I have a friend that has a copy of the current laptop diagnostic software for modern BMW cars (a huge undertaking to get operating) and this too can read the codes on my '94 530i. But a standard OBD-II reader cannot.

Note that there are certain transmission related codes that can make it to the engine module which an OBD-II reader can see, but these aren't the specific codes stored in the transmission module.

Google "reading BMW transmission module codes" or something like that and you can get more information.


No codes are being read. My BMW mechanic tried about 4 different code readers and could not read any codes including the trany codes.. He has the proper readers for boteh OBd I and II cars. Also my Peake code/reset tool is designed for this model and did not read codes. Code and error code instead. However it will reset oil and inspection lights. I used to work fine to read codes. You are correct that soem readers will not read BMW transmission codes..


My indy did several checks and could not easily find why my car cannot read codes. It is possible it is because I changed out my instrument cluster to repair a failing dot matrix display.

I used a 95 540i cluster (same part # as mine) and switched out the code plug. Everything worked well with no changes in any aspect of the vehicle's operation. I think 95 540i was made in 12/94 while mine is made in 1/95 with ews II security. There may be a possible conflict. Anyway, not going to switch back until the spring(if needed)

Going to deal with trany issue first. He did say that the lack of being able to read codes would have no effect on the impending trany failure.

 

[45ACP]

Russell can you line flush this car? Find where the tranny line connects to the radiator. Run your old fluid out, put in the appropriate fluid, try the cheapest fluid that will fit the spec. Maybe, just maybe it will help.

If not, perhaps AAMCO can do it if they guarantee the work. It might cost $1400 more like $2000 but i too believe that if its a DD.. then get it done right, a used trans may work and may not. Been there done that, and if youve ever paid a mechanic to spend all day taking out your old trans and putting in a new one (or 1/2 to 3/4 a day) and you bolt it up and fire it up and fill it up and "no pull" out of the used DEAD trans? .. yeah, you will get rebuilds every time.

Try simple first, since if AAMCO needs to rebuild it they may as well rebuild a really dead one. Especially since a rebuilt, guaranteed trans, even if it may cost a pretty penny, pretty much guarantees that you are leaving the shop with a like-new trans and thats better than what you can get from pick-n-pull for between $400 to $900, AND they CAN get it done in 1.5 days if they make it a priority, and want your business (put two techs on it, not just one guy.) Right? Right? And let them sell you the trans cooler. Why not.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Russell can you line flush this car? Find where the tranny line connects to the radiator. Run your old fluid out, put in the appropriate fluid, try the cheapest fluid that will fit the spec. Maybe, just maybe it will help.

If not, perhaps AAMCO can do it if they guarantee the work. It might cost $1400 more like $2000 but i too believe that if its a DD.. then get it done right, a used trans may work and may not. Been there done that, and if youve ever paid a mechanic to spend all day taking out your old trans and putting in a new one (or 1/2 to 3/4 a day) and you bolt it up and fire it up and fill it up and "no pull" out of the used DEAD trans? .. yeah, you will get rebuilds every time.

Try simple first, since if AAMCO needs to rebuild it they may as well rebuild a really dead one. Especially since a rebuilt, guaranteed trans, even if it may cost a pretty penny, pretty much guarantees that you are leaving the shop with a like-new trans and thats better than what you can get from pick-n-pull for between $400 to $900, AND they CAN get it done in 1.5 days if they make it a priority, and want your business (put two techs on it, not just one guy.) Right? Right? And let them sell you the trans cooler. Why not.

My indy BMW shop ordered the rebuilt trany today. Should have it in a week or so with new/updated eprom, torque convertor, coolant flush kit etc. 30 month warrently. Installation should take about 1 day or so.

 

[urchin]

Russell:

Did you ever try and rest the ECU modules by disconnecting the battery?

I am certain that the tranny on that car DOES have electronic solenoid controls and if they are malfunctioning it could result in what appears to be failing mechanical parts.

Like another poster said...try easy solutions first. It sure would be a lot cheaper to replace a few sensors than a entire transmission.

 

[Throckmorton]

Originally Posted By: Russell
Upcoming auto trany failure at 207,000 miles

Looks like it has finally happened to me even after fluid and filter changes every 35,000 miles and driving like an adult.

Really starting to slip when shifting gears in Economy mode. Less so in sport mode. Was only slippling when shifting to 3rd. Now most every gear. Also I often get a slip then fairly hard shift. No trans code error. fair amount of slipping for shifts when under moderate acceleration. Less so when under light accelleration. I also experience an ocassional delayed reverse engagement.

Do not see any leaks and fluid level is fine when it was checked a month ago.

None of the trany shops in my area can seem to do any diagnostics without a teardown. None of the BMW indy shops can do diagnostics or rebuild tranys. They install used or rebuilt units. I have not checked the dealer yet for diagnostics

My BMW dealer wanted $4,900 for a rebuilt unit not including labor. local trany shop rebuilts were about 2 grand with a 12 month warrenty Then there is a rebuilt unit with torque convertor and electronics update from a nationally known euro trany rebuilder for $3,500 with a 30 month warrently to be installed by a local BMW indy shop.

Nope, I do not want to convert to a manual.

Guess I will just have a rebuilt trany installed after I confirm the problem. Hate this, but car is in excellent shape otherwise and do not want to buy another car at this time.
If you are in the market for a rebuilt transmission be sure to check eBay. I got a great deal on rebuilt tranny for my Honda from eBay.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: urchin
Russell:

Did you ever try and rest the ECU modules by disconnecting the battery?

I am certain that the tranny on that car DOES have electronic solenoid controls and if they are malfunctioning it could result in what appears to be failing mechanical parts.

Like another poster said...try easy solutions first. It sure would be a lot cheaper to replace a few sensors than a entire transmission.

Will try on sat. However, I hold no hope as i tried the battery disconnect a month ago when I replaced the instrument cluster. The issues I have were apparent for some time and have intensified rapidly in the past week. Slow to engage in reverse (after setting several days)has been there for three years or more. Penndulum shift at low rpm/light load has been there for 2 years as well. Flaring ocasionally started about a year ago. Started getting bad this week. Three shops have all said the trany is worn/wearing out. Not much more I can do as i am not capable of tearing it apart myself.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: Throckmorton
Originally Posted By: Russell
Upcoming auto trany failure at 207,000 miles

Looks like it has finally happened to me even after fluid and filter changes every 35,000 miles and driving like an adult.

Really starting to slip when shifting gears in Economy mode. Less so in sport mode. Was only slippling when shifting to 3rd. Now most every gear. Also I often get a slip then fairly hard shift. No trans code error. fair amount of slipping for shifts when under moderate acceleration. Less so when under light accelleration. I also experience an ocassional delayed reverse engagement.

Do not see any leaks and fluid level is fine when it was checked a month ago.

None of the trany shops in my area can seem to do any diagnostics without a teardown. None of the BMW indy shops can do diagnostics or rebuild tranys. They install used or rebuilt units. I have not checked the dealer yet for diagnostics

My BMW dealer wanted $4,900 for a rebuilt unit not including labor. local trany shop rebuilts were about 2 grand with a 12 month warrenty Then there is a rebuilt unit with torque convertor and electronics update from a nationally known euro trany rebuilder for $3,500 with a 30 month warrently to be installed by a local BMW indy shop.

Nope, I do not want to convert to a manual.

Guess I will just have a rebuilt trany installed after I confirm the problem. Hate this, but car is in excellent shape otherwise and do not want to buy another car at this time.
If you are in the market for a rebuilt transmission be sure to check eBay. I got a great deal on rebuilt tranny for my Honda from eBay.


No disrepect. I can not see buying a unknown brand "rebuilt" trany of unknown quality from an unknown party then paying shipping and having to pay a mechanic to install teh trany. All with no or questionable warrenty. I would be stuck if ther was an issue. Sorry, just not secure enough for me.