Trans Slams into D4 after fluid change w/Maxlife

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Okay guys, I have a weird one here.

Vehicle is a 2001 Accord V6 with 132k on the clock. The fluid was definitely not original (almost no sludge on the magnet), but it was definitely due for a change. Prior to the transmission service, the transmission functioned perfectly.

I did one drain and refill with 3.1 qt of Maxlife ATF. This is the most recent version of Maxlife ATF, the full-synthetic one. After a brief test drive, the following issue appeared: when you shift from Park to Drive, the transmission engages Drive but the entire car jerks. Reverse is less noticeable, but the car still jerks. Once in Drive, the transmission shifts perfectly, in fact better than before.

I should mention that the drain and fill plugs were on quite tight, and quite a bit of force was exerted in order to remove the respective bolts. However, I really doubt that this would cause any issues. I should also mention that the fluid level is a bit on the high side, but probably not as high as it was before the fluid change.

I was unable to do any further investigation at the time, but plan to when I do another drain/refill next week. Any ideas as to what the issue may be? My first thought was that there is an issue with the transmission mounts, but the timing of them going bad would just be too strange.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT - If you take off from a traffic light, there is no problem at all. The entire car only jerks/slams when you are shifting from Park to Drive when exiting a parking spot.
 
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It could be that the synthetic is not a good match for your car.

If you insist on aftermarket go with
Castrol Import Multi Vehicle ATF, it is a closer match to the old Honda Z-1 spec fluid, but it also meets their newest DW-1 spec as well.

Or try going with Honda DW-1. I recommend this.
 
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
It could be that the synthetic is not a good match for your car.

If you insist on aftermarket go with
Castrol Import Multi Vehicle ATF, it is a closer match to the old Honda Z-1 spec fluid, but it also meets their newest DW-1 spec as well.

Or try going with Honda DW-1. I recommend this.


I may end-up using doing some drain and refills with Honda DW-1. However, I find it strange that the issue only occurs with the initial engagement into Drive. Perhaps it's an issue with viscosity and hydraulic pressure?
 
I like Maxlife for GM units but Honda units seem to do best on a different fluid.
I use Amsoil ATF in these without issue for 100k and better.
 
I know some hondas slam into gear as normal operation, maybe the old worn fluid caused engaging into drive less harsh over time or using the wrong atf
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Is there a real filter inside these Honda units?


Some of them have an in-line filter at the top of the unit, but I am not sure if this one does.
 
I am using MaxLife ATF in my '04 Altima 2.5S without issues. Although this transmission has experienced some shift flare(prior to and after the switch to MaxLife) which is noticable in the colder months but, not this summer thus far
smile.gif
Here is a link to MaxLife's spec sheet. Notice the low 6.1 cST @ 100 degs C. This ATF is quite thin but, being synthetic, Valvoline says that the ATF will not shear as much as other conventional ATF's. See Valvoline's statement on the PQIA site in regards to the PQIA putting Valvoline MaxLife ATF on ALERT!

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf


http://www.pqiamerica.com/ATFdecember2012/valvolinemaxATF.htm

This ^^^ is not the full story but, a summary of the situation when the PQIA tested MaxLife and alerted Valvoline that their ATF did not meed the 100 deg C spec and Valvoline comented/explained!
 
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I used Redline D4 in my '96 Honda Accord the entire time I owned it (started using it around 60,000 miles in that car...changes were made to Honda transmissions in 1998 which resulted in problems that continued for a number of years...the older units didn't shift as smoothly but were more durable) and it shifted MUCH better than with the old Z1 (never tried the DW-1). The new owner just did a drain-and-fill with Redline (per my recommendation) and said that the trans is smooth as silk (now at just under 150,000 miles). I swear by Redline gear and trans lube products (others say Amsoil works well also).
 
No idea what's causing it, except that based on the thread title, the "timing" of the issue, though perhaps not accurate there seems to be a pointed answer/conclusion here. It is interesting that it shifts fine though, just P to D.

I just finshed my second d&f on 01 Civic with ML after 27k, atfi. and it's shifting as well as it ever did. Getting ready to do a d&f on 3.0L V6 Accord with ML and that will make 3 vehicles including a Tacoma 3.4L now using ML.

Since another d&f in near future, logic says go to DW-1, then you can see if ML 'might' have something to do with it. All that said, considering your OEM all the time proclivity very surprised see this thread with a non OEM fluid being used. Especially so considering Honda's well documented less than stellar auto trans reliability record, and even more so for a V6.

Quote:
.....http://www.pqiamerica.com/ATFdecember2012/valvolinemaxATF.htm

This ^^^ is not the full story but, a summary of the situation when the PQIA tested MaxLife and alerted Valvoline that their ATF did not meed the 100 deg C spec and Valvoline comented/explained!


Just to clarify, PQIA removed the alert and in the latest testing of some ATF's, Castrol TransMax ATF also didn't meet the 'old' Mercon standard and didn't get an alert or any comment. Based on that, it seems now PQIA has accepted the Valvoline MaxLife explanation for other ATF's.
 
had the same results with 2 hondas a did years ago. One ran fine with LG black. The other developed real problems 6 months down the line.

Pull it out now and put a different fluid in it. DW-1 or Amsoil would be the only thing I'd use.

I prefer the amsoil in honda AT's. Still shifts crisp but the engagement seems quicker yet not as harsh.

M
 
I had something similar after I drained 3 quarts of original ATF out of a Hyundai Santa fe and replaced with Chrysler fluid.

It would BANG from 2-3 (Transmission would just surge on 2-3 and sometimes wouldn't make the shift at all) and was in a parking lot at the time.

After a week or two, it must have worked its way in somehow and started shifting nicely. It would still occasionally surge but not bad.

Honda's auto transmissions are different inside than that of a Hyundai, but could be something similar.

Is this one of the Honda automatics that shifts into 3rd gear then 1st gear when putting it in D?
 
I have read many hit and miss stories with Maxlife in Hondas.

I can't explain why, maybe some uneven cleaning happened on an engagement surface or something.

I would, at this point, do one drain and fill of DW-1 and drive the car for a year, then do another D&F.

Keep doing more regular D&F with DW-1, every 20,000 miles or so.

The drain plug was tight because the fluid was probably Z-1 from the factory.

The Maxlife probably gave the trans a bit of a cleaning shock and you notice it in how it engages.

That is why many people now do yearly drain and fills with factory spec transmission fluid from when the car was brand new.

The DW-1 is cheap and the fluid change is simple.

Also make sure you read the proper procedure for checking the fluid level. Not all cars are the same.

My Fit, I check the fluid level when it is to temp an the car has been shut of for about 30 seconds. I don't check the level with the car running.

Let us know how one D&F of DW-1 affects the shift quality!
 
Originally Posted By: Falken


My Fit, I check the fluid level when it is to temp an the car has been shut of for about 30 seconds. I don't check the level with the car running.



that is the correct procedure from the service manual. i think you have 1 or 2 minutes after you shut the car off to check the atf level
 
That transmission is within the dreaded failure years. That many miles, it's due to implode at any moment. Get ready to buy a new one or rebuilt one. Since you didn't use the Honda fluid, dealership may not be of any help.
 
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