Toyota’s stance on using a heavier weight oil

That was a short lived recommendation though
I had guessed this recommendation was abandoned because moving up in grade won’t cure poor metallurgy or bearing design. Their initial stopgap, though, was moving up in weight…..for better protection. It was very telling advice.
 
A friend of mine lost a Triton V-10 after using the wrong oil. The next few months will be interesting if manufacturers are forced to modify their "specifications" because they have no other option. If the shortage is real and long-term, this year may settle the viscosity debate once and for all. Time will tell, but my popcorn popper is ready. ;)
Wrong oil is not the same. It could be dyno instead of synthetic, thinner instead of thicker (which is actual problem).
If you think he lost engine bcs. running 5W40 instead of 5W20 or 5W30, yeah, that didn’t happen.
 
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A friend of mine lost a Triton V-10 after using the wrong oil. The next few months will be interesting if manufacturers are forced to modify their "specifications" because they have no other option. If the shortage is real and long-term, this year may settle the viscosity debate once and for all. Time will tell, but my popcorn popper is ready. ;)
What happened?
 
A friend of mine lost a Triton V-10 after using the wrong oil.
I think many of us would be interested in the details of this as asked. What was the wrong oil that was used as compared to what was recommended (viscosity/brand/version/synthetic/conventional/other)? What oil related failure did it create? How long was that oil used? What filters were being used vs recommended with what bypass psi? How many miles on motor?

Have any other Triton V-10's on any of the forums had the same failure issues? I'm thinking like the Hyundai motor issues.

Besides your account of being there we have nothing else to go on. I had a 13 year old 220k Hyundai Sonata 2.4L. It started vibrating at about 3k rpm, shop said internal. I believe it was balance shaft module chain slipped a tooth. To get to it that requires pulling timing chain also (it comes as a kit with both). Something let go and started spraying oil everywhere but still ran perfectly. Now was that because I used the recommended 5W-20 (PP)? That I did 7500 mile OCI's? Something else like age/wear?
 
Guess after Toyota is bored with 0W-8 they could just go single fluid and use the coolant system 😷

Just need a AIO engine, brake, power steering, coolant and windshield washer fluid. Call it the “All Fluid” or “Omni Fluid”.

One juice to rule them all so to speak.
 
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Remember too - that Toyota is a big, big, Hybrid seller - no other sector has squeezed another 1 mpg harder than the Hybrid engineers - it’s certainly a very competitive metric …
 
GM's direction to run the 0W-40 still applies to the engines not deemed to be replaced under warranty but still to be used with the thicker oil. Source - LINK

But GM's move on that reinforces the fact that engines can use thicker oil than what's called out (recommended) in the OM, which is the focus of this thread.

The engines will eventually be replaced under warranty, the 0W-40 was/is a stopgap so they didn't have to replace all the engines at once as sort of a triage approach. I was also told the engineering fail issue will also persist with the 0W-40, and it just slows it down.....
 
I am seeing 0W-8 for best fuel economy! 10W-30 in extremely low temps and the engine may become difficult to start, what are these temps? So 0W-8, 0W-16, 0W-20 or 5W-30 engine oil is recommended!

So 0W-8 for fuel economy and 5W-30 for engine longevity!
10w-30 is good down to 0f going by the chart which is a deadly artic blizzard by my standards so I consider 30f to be extremely low temps which is still fine for 20w-50
 
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