In my two late model V8 Tundra and Sequoia, I use synthetic 10W30 in the winter and 10W40 in the summer. No change in gas mileage or oil pressure. The engines are quieter and smoother. The cold "piston slap" in the Tundra is almost gone.
Toyotas answer to synthetics..................
- Thread starter Amkeer
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Exactly Dr T.
Most folks are confused as h*** by the API "Starburst." In their minds, every oil is exactly the same.
For example, they wander into Canadian Tire and see two bottles of oil side by side.
One bottle is the absolute cheapest oil ever made, maybe $0.65 a litre. The other is a "medium priced" synthetic like Mobil 1 10W-30, maybe $8 a litre at Canadian Tire.
Now since both have the API "Starburst" both have to be "equally" good so why on earth pay for the more expensive synthetic? After all, they're both "good!" See where the confusion comes in?
Oh, except there is no way in h*** that cheap oil will mention any ACEA certification, will it??
I think about +90% of driving can fall under "severe" as defined by the manufacturer. That really changes the equation.
I'm really looking forward to my experiment this summer running Delvac 1 5W-40 in my 2000 GMC Sierra with Vortec 5.3. I do know that the motor is much quieter running Mobil 1 10W-30 versus Mobil 1 0W-30.
If there is NO difference in MPG, and I bet there won't be, I'm going to use a heavier summer oil in the Vortec from that point on.
Jerry
Most folks are confused as h*** by the API "Starburst." In their minds, every oil is exactly the same.
For example, they wander into Canadian Tire and see two bottles of oil side by side.
One bottle is the absolute cheapest oil ever made, maybe $0.65 a litre. The other is a "medium priced" synthetic like Mobil 1 10W-30, maybe $8 a litre at Canadian Tire.
Now since both have the API "Starburst" both have to be "equally" good so why on earth pay for the more expensive synthetic? After all, they're both "good!" See where the confusion comes in?
Oh, except there is no way in h*** that cheap oil will mention any ACEA certification, will it??
I think about +90% of driving can fall under "severe" as defined by the manufacturer. That really changes the equation.
I'm really looking forward to my experiment this summer running Delvac 1 5W-40 in my 2000 GMC Sierra with Vortec 5.3. I do know that the motor is much quieter running Mobil 1 10W-30 versus Mobil 1 0W-30.
If there is NO difference in MPG, and I bet there won't be, I'm going to use a heavier summer oil in the Vortec from that point on.
Jerry
Isn't 90% of the wear on your engine at start-up when there is no load on the engine? I would agree that a heavy 15w40 oil would be good for a Cummins Turbo Diesel engine that is worked hard with heavy towing but most passenger vehicles get most of their wear at start up when they are cold. That is why a Mobil 1 5w30 is better for the durablity of the engine.
Look, after spending a lot of time of this site, I've realized that some people like thicker oils and some people like thinner oils.
Me...based upon all my reading and research on the subject, I prefer oils high in antiwear and detergent additives with high HT/HS numbers, which pretty much describes the 5w-40/15-40 oils. I have absolutely no issues with running these "thicker" oils in modern gas engines...
You, Pitbull, obviously like thinner oils, and probably haven't even considered anti-wear packages, detergents, HT/HS figures and such...Yes, viscosity is important, but there is a whole lot more to how an oil protects (and keeps an engine clean) and performs than just its viscosity...and I'm not gonna waste any more of my time trying to convince you otherwise.
Remember...the main reason I like 5w-40/15w-40's is because of the "features" they offer, not their viscosity (unless I'm trying to control consumption).
[ January 28, 2004, 02:14 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Me...based upon all my reading and research on the subject, I prefer oils high in antiwear and detergent additives with high HT/HS numbers, which pretty much describes the 5w-40/15-40 oils. I have absolutely no issues with running these "thicker" oils in modern gas engines...
You, Pitbull, obviously like thinner oils, and probably haven't even considered anti-wear packages, detergents, HT/HS figures and such...Yes, viscosity is important, but there is a whole lot more to how an oil protects (and keeps an engine clean) and performs than just its viscosity...and I'm not gonna waste any more of my time trying to convince you otherwise.
Remember...the main reason I like 5w-40/15w-40's is because of the "features" they offer, not their viscosity (unless I'm trying to control consumption).
[ January 28, 2004, 02:14 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Some engines see far more cold starts per 1000 miles than others. Some engines see far higher ambient temps and loads than others. The one size fits all oil spec is a fallacy IMHO.
Remember Toyota recommends heavier oils in other markets in the same engines for high temp conditions. Drivers like myself who have relatively few cold starts per thousand miles and live in hot areas may compromise towards a higher viscosity.
I think the viscosity thing is way overdone from both sides. I was Mr. 'thick' but have now run 5W30 in both vehicles. I'm actually considering running 40W70 in my Mazda turbo 626 which would be 5/10W30 in the US/Canada just to show it can be done (I ran 25W70 in this engine for several years anyway). Trouble is who would believe me?Along with the "I have an engine with small clearances designed specially for the US and can't run 5W40 or my engine will be damaged" and on it goes. I'd like to see the word viscosity banned here for a few months and see which way the forum goes. Would be very interesting I believe.
Yes, thank you. That's the whole point: you should use common sense and pick a viscosity grade based on use and ambient temperature.
There is no such thing as a "universal" oil though Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 does try awful hard.
In my extreme cold temps, I prefer "the lighter the better" and pick based on MRV performance. A lot of "old timers" react in Horror: "It'll blow up! You'll find out!"
I'm still waiting for that explosion.
I do know that I can't see my "neighbor" as he lives a ways from me, but I can most certainly HEAR him when he starts his car in the morning: KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK etc.
Mobil 1 0W-30 is great for gasoline engines. Esso XD-3 0W-30 or XD-3 0W-40 is great for HD diesels in cold temps.
At the other extreme, how well does the motor last running a "thinner" oil versus a "thicker" oil. My 1990 Toyota 4Runner 3.0 V6 had pretty tight tolerances and I ran either Delvac 1 or Mobil 1 15W-50.
The motor was MUCH quieter, and the Toyota mechanic was always astonded when he adjusted the valve shims. His first question: are you running a synthetic? Second question: a HEAVIER synthetic??
I'm itching to switch my Vortec to Delvac 1 5W-40 in April or May, then see how it works. Especially that cross-country drive in August to St. George, Utah.
Jerry
I have the absolute worst driving conditions ever! 100+F, stop and go ALL DAY long around town. Never getting over 40MPH and I make 20+ stops, turning the engine off-on. The Mobil 1 5W30 gets pureley punished, to say the least. That's why I'm going to Delvac 1 5W40.
Makes sense for you. I think I will stick with the Mobil 1 5w30 since I only drive unloaded and in a mild climate. I usually drive my LC somewhere everyday around 20 miles round trip. But not stop and go traffic, I live in the country and drive into a small town (100,000 people) during none rush hour conditions. I think the oil should be some what based on the use of the vehicle and climate along with the manufactures recommendations. JMHO
I forgot to mention that my Toyota pickup with the 2.7 engine is 2002. So there is only a one year difference. My driving during the last change interval included starts at -10C and +48C.
So what difference could there be in that engine from 2002 to 2003 (other then CAFE) to reduce the oil recomendation?
So what difference could there be in that engine from 2002 to 2003 (other then CAFE) to reduce the oil recomendation?
They say not to extend the OCI when using synthetic because some people don't check the level between oil changes. You have to extend to justify the added cost.
Would you recommend 30hd for the gentleman/woman in AZ with the severeX driving conditions?
Would you recommend 30hd for the gentleman/woman in AZ with the severeX driving conditions?
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