I'd tr y to fix it because it is nice to be able to drain the housing before you remove it. I like the idea of a small impact wrench to shock it loose. Ed
Toyota RAV4 2015 OF Cartridge Drain Plug Stuck
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Originally Posted by billt460
Originally Posted by JayhawkRoy
I would buy a replacement and move on. It appears RockAuto has one for about $16 or so.
Originally Posted by AZjeff
I'd spend the money on a new housing and reuse the plug next oil change.
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Why waste your time screwing around for a lousy $16 bucks? It makes no sense.
It's so easy just to do this.
Scott
Originally Posted by JayhawkRoy
I would buy a replacement and move on. It appears RockAuto has one for about $16 or so.
Originally Posted by AZjeff
I'd spend the money on a new housing and reuse the plug next oil change.
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Why waste your time screwing around for a lousy $16 bucks? It makes no sense.
It's so easy just to do this.
Scott
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by Dan55
Leave it in and just remove the housing,that's what I do. Oem only on the housing.
Originally Posted by oilmutt
I leave the filter cartage alone just take the whole thing off and then after one or two times you will learn to do it with out the mess . you will find it much quicker and less mess by the third time! Based on a 10k oil change you should have to do it once a year!
That's what I do also. I don't think it makes that much of a mess. I've toyed with deliberately gluing the drain plug in place so that I don't need the socket to do the job, just a 3/8 drive.
Same here because my 2006 Lexus does not have the drain plug on the metal housing.
I just unscrew the housing until the housing starts to drain. Does not make a mess the way I do it. Sure it would make a mess if I unscrewed the housing all the way off.
Originally Posted by Dan55
Leave it in and just remove the housing,that's what I do. Oem only on the housing.
Originally Posted by oilmutt
I leave the filter cartage alone just take the whole thing off and then after one or two times you will learn to do it with out the mess . you will find it much quicker and less mess by the third time! Based on a 10k oil change you should have to do it once a year!
That's what I do also. I don't think it makes that much of a mess. I've toyed with deliberately gluing the drain plug in place so that I don't need the socket to do the job, just a 3/8 drive.
Same here because my 2006 Lexus does not have the drain plug on the metal housing.
I just unscrew the housing until the housing starts to drain. Does not make a mess the way I do it. Sure it would make a mess if I unscrewed the housing all the way off.
Being a previous owner of a 2005 Mazda 3 with a similar system I'll share my experiences . The plastic cap concerned me so I ordered a spare , after 14yrs and 200k it was never needed. I might have used the center drain once or twice and considered it a waste of time. On my Lexus I use a fumoto style valve and a threaded funnel for convenience. Motivx makes a kit for a cleaner oil change experience. https://www.motivxtools.com/products/mx2320-oil-filter-wrench-mx2301-funnel-mx2341-drain-tool-bundle
People who came up with that design should be electrocuted. They could learn A LOT from European manufacturers.
Toyota went back to the regular can oil filter when the Camry was redesigned last year. With the new Rav hitting lots now my guess would be it has a can oil filter now also. Same oil filter that is spec'd for the 05 Matrix/Corolla. But now some will say it's too small, LOL.
Originally Posted by Leo99
Originally Posted by edyvw
People who came up with that design should be electrocuted. They could learn A LOT from European manufacturers.
You really think European cars are easier to change the oil on than a Toyota?
I don't know much about all of them, but I'd say it was better on my VW TDi. I used a vacuum pump to pull out the dipstick tube, and I'd pull the filter from topside also. The filter did need to have a trashbag shoved in next to the engine, as it'd just leak oil--so that was a negative--but otherwise it was a relatively painless exercise. I much preferred it to getting down onto the ground! Also, IMO it better allows for a bellypan, which in turns cleans up airflow under the car--and more importantly, cuts down on salt water getting splashed up into the engine bay.
Originally Posted by edyvw
People who came up with that design should be electrocuted. They could learn A LOT from European manufacturers.
You really think European cars are easier to change the oil on than a Toyota?
I don't know much about all of them, but I'd say it was better on my VW TDi. I used a vacuum pump to pull out the dipstick tube, and I'd pull the filter from topside also. The filter did need to have a trashbag shoved in next to the engine, as it'd just leak oil--so that was a negative--but otherwise it was a relatively painless exercise. I much preferred it to getting down onto the ground! Also, IMO it better allows for a bellypan, which in turns cleans up airflow under the car--and more importantly, cuts down on salt water getting splashed up into the engine bay.
Originally Posted by Leo99
Originally Posted by edyvw
People who came up with that design should be electrocuted. They could learn A LOT from European manufacturers.
You really think European cars are easier to change the oil on than a Toyota?
Well...yeah...often.
Every Mercedes I've owned has a filter accessible from above, and they don't drip all over when you do.
On my Tundra, you've got to remove the skid plate to access the filter. Then the filter is in this cartridge setup with two o-rings and you have to drain the filter housing before removing the cartridge...not exactly easy...actually, more of a PITA than the MB...
Originally Posted by edyvw
People who came up with that design should be electrocuted. They could learn A LOT from European manufacturers.
You really think European cars are easier to change the oil on than a Toyota?
Well...yeah...often.
Every Mercedes I've owned has a filter accessible from above, and they don't drip all over when you do.
On my Tundra, you've got to remove the skid plate to access the filter. Then the filter is in this cartridge setup with two o-rings and you have to drain the filter housing before removing the cartridge...not exactly easy...actually, more of a PITA than the MB...
For the OP - I changed from the plastic/composite cartridge housing to an aluminum/cast one on the Tundra. But when examining them, I thought the composite was pretty tough in construction. I don't know that the metal housing was all that much better.
Still, the swap was easy - ordered on Amazon. I had to swap over the center tube, which required bending a couple of metal tabs on the bottom of the housing to rotate the tube and free it,
Here's the part, if you're interested in just changing it out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For $21, it's not expensive. You'll still need the drain plug cap from your old housing. Naturally, your dealer would have this, too...
I use this Motive-X tool for the cartridge housing. Works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...mp;psc=1&refRID=3P43BS5ANSH9QK6H62QC
Still, the swap was easy - ordered on Amazon. I had to swap over the center tube, which required bending a couple of metal tabs on the bottom of the housing to rotate the tube and free it,
Here's the part, if you're interested in just changing it out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For $21, it's not expensive. You'll still need the drain plug cap from your old housing. Naturally, your dealer would have this, too...
I use this Motive-X tool for the cartridge housing. Works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...mp;psc=1&refRID=3P43BS5ANSH9QK6H62QC
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Originally Posted by Leo99
Originally Posted by edyvw
People who came up with that design should be electrocuted. They could learn A LOT from European manufacturers.
You really think European cars are easier to change the oil on than a Toyota?
Absolutely. On my Tiguan it is spin on can on top of engine. Filter has valve that once filter is unscrewed block oil from coming out.
On BMW it was cartridge, also on top of the engine, an absolute breeze. That BMW (An X5 35d) was by far easiest vehicle to change oil. It has belly pan to protect engine, with small doors to access oil pan screw, differential etc.
On Toyota, I need to marinate my hands in hydrogen peroxide after oil change how dirty they are.
Originally Posted by edyvw
People who came up with that design should be electrocuted. They could learn A LOT from European manufacturers.
You really think European cars are easier to change the oil on than a Toyota?
Absolutely. On my Tiguan it is spin on can on top of engine. Filter has valve that once filter is unscrewed block oil from coming out.
On BMW it was cartridge, also on top of the engine, an absolute breeze. That BMW (An X5 35d) was by far easiest vehicle to change oil. It has belly pan to protect engine, with small doors to access oil pan screw, differential etc.
On Toyota, I need to marinate my hands in hydrogen peroxide after oil change how dirty they are.
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Quote
...Here's the part, if you're interested in just changing it out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For $21, it's not expensive. You'll still need the drain plug cap from your old housing. Naturally, your dealer would have this, too...
Researching topic yesterday noticed this, at least with Genuine Toyota still have to get the old drain plug off, or buy a new one (~$7). I suppose if committed to the aluminum housing replacement or another composite, tearing up the oe composite one to get old plug off not an issue.
Top side engine cartridge housings like those on Euros, Hyun/Kia and FCA/Chrysler, much better adapted to practical use ime and imo.
...Here's the part, if you're interested in just changing it out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHP68A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For $21, it's not expensive. You'll still need the drain plug cap from your old housing. Naturally, your dealer would have this, too...
Researching topic yesterday noticed this, at least with Genuine Toyota still have to get the old drain plug off, or buy a new one (~$7). I suppose if committed to the aluminum housing replacement or another composite, tearing up the oe composite one to get old plug off not an issue.
Top side engine cartridge housings like those on Euros, Hyun/Kia and FCA/Chrysler, much better adapted to practical use ime and imo.
Used oil on skin is very bad.
Buy a box of gloves.
Buy a box of gloves.
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
On Toyota, I need to marinate my hands in hydrogen peroxide after oil change how dirty they are.
You could try wearing gloves. Plus Dawn dishsoap is pretty good on grease.
Really, I mean how I did not know that gloves exist?
And dish soap. You opened my eyes. I never heard of it.
This POS Toyota leaks oil from filter housing, using that plastic pipe, or whatever it is or not. It just goes everywhere, and it will contaminate hands whether gloves are worn or not.
Yes, dish soap helps, but I need to have absolutely clean hands to take out contact lenses. So, it is a process.
But love when people on internet assume that someone who changes oil never heard of gloves or dish soap.
Originally Posted by edyvw
On Toyota, I need to marinate my hands in hydrogen peroxide after oil change how dirty they are.
You could try wearing gloves. Plus Dawn dishsoap is pretty good on grease.
Really, I mean how I did not know that gloves exist?
And dish soap. You opened my eyes. I never heard of it.
This POS Toyota leaks oil from filter housing, using that plastic pipe, or whatever it is or not. It just goes everywhere, and it will contaminate hands whether gloves are worn or not.
Yes, dish soap helps, but I need to have absolutely clean hands to take out contact lenses. So, it is a process.
But love when people on internet assume that someone who changes oil never heard of gloves or dish soap.
Originally Posted by Mr Nice
Used oil on skin is very bad.
Buy a box of gloves.
Thanx for opening my eyes.
Used oil on skin is very bad.
Buy a box of gloves.
Thanx for opening my eyes.
I manage to change the oil on the Tundra without getting oil everywhere. Put a piece of plastic hose over the little plastic drain tool (included with every factory filter) and drain it right into your pan. Easy. Dripless. Clean.
Then remove the housing. It won't drip/run because it's already empty.
Or, you could try this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...il-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950
Which I just ordered.
While I'm not a fan of how Toyota did this, the cartridge housing drain was thoughtful. My Volvos always dribble down the outside of the cartridge housing.
Then remove the housing. It won't drip/run because it's already empty.
Or, you could try this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...il-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950
Which I just ordered.
While I'm not a fan of how Toyota did this, the cartridge housing drain was thoughtful. My Volvos always dribble down the outside of the cartridge housing.
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Sam_Julier
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by Astro14
I manage to change the oil on the Tundra without getting oil everywhere. Put a piece of plastic hose over the little plastic drain tool (included with every factory filter) and drain it right into your pan. Easy. Dripless. Clean.
Then remove the housing. It won't drip/run because it's already empty.
Or, you could try this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...il-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950
Which I just ordered.
While I'm not a fan of how Toyota did this, the cartridge housing drain was thoughtful. My Volvos always dribble down the outside of the cartridge housing.
+ 1. Great idea about the plastic hose over the drain tool! Wish I had thought of this before the first oil and filter change on the Avalon. The Motive tool referenced above is exceptionally well made.
Sam
I manage to change the oil on the Tundra without getting oil everywhere. Put a piece of plastic hose over the little plastic drain tool (included with every factory filter) and drain it right into your pan. Easy. Dripless. Clean.
Then remove the housing. It won't drip/run because it's already empty.
Or, you could try this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...il-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950
Which I just ordered.
While I'm not a fan of how Toyota did this, the cartridge housing drain was thoughtful. My Volvos always dribble down the outside of the cartridge housing.
+ 1. Great idea about the plastic hose over the drain tool! Wish I had thought of this before the first oil and filter change on the Avalon. The Motive tool referenced above is exceptionally well made.
Sam
Wow, thanks for all the great replies and suggestions! I really appreciate it.
This morning I called the dealer and explained the situation. He agreed to take care of it, so I took the car in. He said they never remove that plug but he had a tech loosen it and reinstall it just snug. I guess I'll find out next time I change the oil if it's OK. I like the idea of draining the canister before I remove it. That's the way I do it on my VW Rabbit which has a similar setup.
Thanks again, Ray
This morning I called the dealer and explained the situation. He agreed to take care of it, so I took the car in. He said they never remove that plug but he had a tech loosen it and reinstall it just snug. I guess I'll find out next time I change the oil if it's OK. I like the idea of draining the canister before I remove it. That's the way I do it on my VW Rabbit which has a similar setup.
Thanks again, Ray
Originally Posted by Astro14
I manage to change the oil on the Tundra without getting oil everywhere. Put a piece of plastic hose over the little plastic drain tool (included with every factory filter) and drain it right into your pan. Easy. Dripless. Clean.
Then remove the housing. It won't drip/run because it's already empty.
Or, you could try this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...il-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950
Which I just ordered.
While I'm not a fan of how Toyota did this, the cartridge housing drain was thoughtful. My Volvos always dribble down the outside of the cartridge housing.
In my housing there is always leftover oil.
I usually leave that plastic in for some time to drain, but for whatever reason there is always oil coming out over housing after.
Not to mention that regardless how much I clean everything there is always burning smell of oil after change.
But, it is not like rest of the car is built any better or any more thoughtful.
I manage to change the oil on the Tundra without getting oil everywhere. Put a piece of plastic hose over the little plastic drain tool (included with every factory filter) and drain it right into your pan. Easy. Dripless. Clean.
Then remove the housing. It won't drip/run because it's already empty.
Or, you could try this:
https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...il-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950
Which I just ordered.
While I'm not a fan of how Toyota did this, the cartridge housing drain was thoughtful. My Volvos always dribble down the outside of the cartridge housing.
In my housing there is always leftover oil.
I usually leave that plastic in for some time to drain, but for whatever reason there is always oil coming out over housing after.
Not to mention that regardless how much I clean everything there is always burning smell of oil after change.
But, it is not like rest of the car is built any better or any more thoughtful.
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