Toyota oil filter, cartridge style

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My new 2018 RAV4 uses a replaceable filter cartridge that is housed in an oil filter cap style, plastic, reusable housing (requires special tool). I have not yet changed oil (only 1000 miles accumulated) but wonder about the quality of the Toyota OE replacement filter cartridge. Are they any good? Is there better?

Also, I'll likely standardize on Mobil 1 0w-20 engine oil.

Comments welcome.
 
I've been using the Toyota OE filters on my gf's Corolla. That too uses a cartridge style filter. So far they have been perfectly fine for my OCI's of 5k. Before I bought them at a bulk deal, I was using Fram Extra Guards. They performed perfect.
 
Originally Posted by BMWR1150GS
... I have not yet changed oil (only 1000 miles accumulated) but wonder about the quality of the Toyota OE replacement filter cartridge. Are they any good? ...
Construction quality of Toyota cartridge filters is among the best. Their efficiency may be mediocre. How much that realistically matters is --- uh --- controversial.
 
Cartridge filters for the RX have been Toyota brand only since new, and while canister filters on the Tundra, nearly 200k of only Toyota filters tells me they're up to the task
 
Fram Ultra(9972) change @every 10K mi and 0W-20 synthetic every 5K mi. My Blackstone UOA particle count @10K with the Ultra looked great and it was doing it's job. Probably Ultra could do 15K but ur car still under warranty.
 
Mahle makes awesome cartridge filters for Toyota's applications
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted by BMWR1150GS
My new 2018 RAV4 uses a replaceable filter cartridge that is housed in an oil filter cap style, plastic, reusable housing (requires special tool). I have not yet changed oil (only 1000 miles accumulated) but wonder about the quality of the Toyota OE replacement filter cartridge. Are they any good? Is there better? Comments welcome.


Toyota's standard cartridge oil filter is of poor construction IMO that's why I went with the Toyota TRD oil filter, but it's 3 times the price.

My lexus dealer told me that he knows of 3 engine failures due to the standard cartridge collapsing. % wise probably not worth worrying about, but when I look at the standard cartridge held together by glue it makes me wonder.
 
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I used the OEM YZZA1 cartridge filter for my '15 Sienna and no issues with fitment or filtering that I can see. Also bought an inexpensive housing tool by ABN that has the relief slots that grab the stronger ribs of the housing and not just the sides. I've not changed oil often due to infrequent use of the van but so far this tool has worked properly and my only complaint is sometimes the tool may get stuck to the housing and you may need to lightly tap with a rubber mallet to dislodge housing. However, the feedback with this brand tool from Amazon is cracking down the center after one use so may want to avoid.

People seem to be happy with the more expensive motivx or assenmacher brands too.
 
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The Highlander I had for a short while had this type of cartridge filter and while the media seemed fine, I didn't like that the super thin clearish sealing ring on the top of the media that is supposed to seal the filter to the housing top/bottom. For me I would prefer if this was an o-ring pressed against an endcap. Just preference though. Picture on the left with the yellow filter media is a Toyota filter cartridge, and on the right is the TRD version for the same application. Although other manufacturers make filters with this o-ring.

O-rings shown beside the yellow filter are included with the filter for the housing cap not for the filter itself.

Toyota Filter.webp


Toyota Filter 2.webp
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
... I didn't like that the super thin clearish sealing ring on the top of the media that is supposed to seal the filter to the housing top/bottom. For me I would prefer if this was an o-ring pressed against an endcap. Just preference though. ...
I believe these endcapless cartridges should be better than ones with end caps, for several reasons.
1) There's no risk of a pleat tearing free from a non-existent end cap.
2) Media surface area can be larger within the same overall dimensions, assuming equal thickness.
3) Inner creases can be closer to the housing center tube, therefore the media is better supported against inward collapse.
4) Being less structurally rigid, the cartridge can align itself so its sealing surfaces at the ends fit solidly against the mating surfaces of the housing, to minimize oil bypassing the ends. (I've seen some other-brand cartridges that were skewed, such that the centerline between endcaps was conspicuously not perpendicular to the end faces, possibly allowing oil to bypass.)
 
CR94,

1) When does a pleat ever tear free unless it's a Purolator? I've not encountered any filters have this issue and I've cut open quite a few or replaced cartridge style with end caps.

2) I don't worry about that, I think quality filter manufacturers over build the filters flow to protect them from engine damage claims. Jay from Fram even confirms that Ultra cartridge I use flows double what the OEM requires.

3)Huh? End-caps would be better in this regard because the media isn't loose against the housing/cap it's attached all the way and kept rigid in the end caps in most cases where they are glued.

4)If there is an o-ring like the filter above that has end-caps I don't see how that would be an issue.

What I don't like about the OEM filter is that the mating seal on the top is super thin and could allow unfiltered oil to get past the filter media. Would it have killed them to make it slightly thicker? Then again Toyota filtration efficiency is terrible at best (IMO) so I guess it doesn't really matter so long as the visible wear particles like metal bits don't get through?
21.gif
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
CR94,
1) When does a pleat ever tear free unless it's a Purolator?...
2) I don't worry about that, I think quality filter manufacturers over build the filters flow to protect them from engine damage claims. ...
3)Huh? End-caps would be better in this regard because the media isn't loose against the housing/cap ...
4)If there is an o-ring like the filter above that has end-caps I don't see how that would be an issue. ...
1) The only filter I ever opened that had torn media was not a Purolator. Other brands turn up with tears occasionally in this site.
2) Shrinking the media area never helps, especially with tiny filters. Endcapless allows deeper pleats.
3) There's a reason why oil filters have center tubes. Endcapless allows the inner pleats to be fully supported by the center tube of the housing. Cartridge filters with end caps have a radial gap between the pleats and the center tube, much larger on some than others.
4)That one is harder to explain without pictures. Some cartridges, including those for certain 1.8-liter Toyotas (Corolla, Prius, Matrix ... ), do not use o-rings at either end. The rigid end caps have to seal against rigid metal ends of the housing and cap, so the end of the filter must be accurately parallel to the end of the housing. The filter will sit cocked slightly and leak around the end if its centerline isn't perfectly perpendicular to the end caps and it's too rigid to conform. I have an unused cartridge with exactly that defect.
 
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Originally Posted by Yah-Tah-Hey
DENSO


Just changed two fuel (5 years old) and a 2 year old oil filter on F60LA …
First time I cut open a little Denso … impressive …

73C30A86-A885-45E7-8F74-655112E1200A.webp
 
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