Not big on Toyota cartridge style oil filters

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So a couple of weeks ago, changed the oil and filter in my 2011 Toyota Camry 2.5 liter 4 cylinder.

The cartridge style filter housing on the Toyota is unnecessarily complex. It has a drain accessed by 3/8" socket drive that allows you to drain the small about of oil in the filter housing out before dropping the whole assembly.

I never use the drain but always change the gasket under the drain.

This time, I didn't torque the housing drain enough and it worked loose. Dripped a couple of quarts out. No big deal as I caught it today before the oil light came on.

Two of my BMW's have a similar filter housing but without the silly drain. The Germans are notorious for overdesigning everything. Here, the Japanese have out done them but have made their housing less idiot-proof. At least for this idiot.

I really miss the old canister style oil filters.
 
I agree, I can't stand the Toyota style oil filters. Pain in the rear. Wish they'd just go back to the old style of filter that worked so well.
 
I too skipped the little drain plug but then got a lot of drippings all over the place when I pulled the housing. One time I could not loosen the little plug without loosening the bigger housing. Pain in the [censored].
 
If the filter housing is thin steel you can use FilterMags on the outside to catch fine wear metals that otherwise will pass straight thru any filter cartridge anyway. Wear metals are often .1 to 20 microns that fly right thru the filter.

In my case I get clean oil on the dipstick for 6 months before it darkens! I wish I did it sooner!
 
I think there's conversion kits out there to turn it back to a spin-on filter if one so desired. You might look into it! The only cartridge filters I enjoy changing are the GM Eco-Tecs, the Mopar 3.6's, and the 6.0 and 6.4 Powerstrokes because they're all on top of the engine and don't make a gigantic mess. The Toyotas that really suck are the Tundras and 4Runners because they have heavy skid plates you gotta take off and then wrestle back on when you're done!

Spin-on is my preferred filter, but like stated above, they're going away. Mostly the EPA and a lot of landfills are no longer allowing spin-on filters to be dumped because there's too much oil left in them. This can be avoided by punching a hole in the dome of the filter and draining the oil or crushing it. But how many people actually do that? With a cartridge, it's just a little oily paper getting tossed. Some recycling places take them, but they have to either be crushed or drained via hole in the dome.
 
SilverC6, are you saying that the drain plug in the filter housing fell out and you lost oil? That shouldn't have happened because there is a spring loaded plug inside that has to be depressed in order to get it to drain. That's why the filter comes with that little plastic insert - it pushes in and relieves the pressure from the plug and lets the oil flow from the filter. Maybe your filter housing cap is worn and should be replaced.

While it isn't as simple as just screwing a filter off and screwing one back on, the procedure to change these filters is neither complicated nor difficult. I personally don't mind changing the oil in these cars.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
So a couple of weeks ago, changed the oil and filter in my 2011 Toyota Camry 2.5 liter 4 cylinder.

The cartridge style filter housing on the Toyota is unnecessarily complex......

Though I've never had to change one (thankfully), I agree. I commented in two posts on THIS THREAD in 2014 on the topic the Toyota Cartridge. In one I said they appeared to be designed by Rube Goldberg. Still seems that way to me.

There's quite a comical by seemingly accurate YouTube about the changing the Toyota cartridge. Because of colorful language I won't link it but if you're interested just Google 'friggin Toyota oil change'. Funny comments too.

Cartridge filters with housing on top are imo, well adopted to either using standard drain plug procedures or using a MityVac and not touching the drain plug if one so chooses. Not fan of cartridges on the bottom of the engine. I still prefer spin on for ease of change, but that's just me.

Glad you caught it in time. And apparently not the only one with a gripe about it.
 
I also have 2011 Camry. I have never loosened nut in center of drain canister but just drop whole canister down then put new oil filter in. Yes some oil does come out but what is benefit of center plug in cartridge?
 
I personally like the drain hole on the oil filter housing cap since it turns out to be pretty mess free.

Some dealers like to over-torque said drain plug to where the entire housing comes off together. I guess if one doesn't have the Toyota oil filter wrench, they could over-torque the drain plug and take the entire assembly off.

The 4Runner skid plates are a pain though. It's almost a 2 person job to get they back on.
 
+1000 and the skid plate is heavy
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: car51
+1000 and the skid plate is heavy
frown.gif



That's another topic for the future.

Bench pressing the Land Cruiser skid plate with one hand while loosening all the bolts with the other is another one of my Toyota gripes.

The pan drain hides under a plastic inspection plate. Two bolts, easy enough. But the filter housing, again the same cartridge housing type as on the Camry complete with drain, is hidden under quite a bit of metal.

Women give birth easier than revealing the oil filter on the Land Cruiser.

I got smarter and began using my cordless driver on the 7 or 8 bolts there.

But on my Camry, oil seeps from the oil filter housing without the steel plug being torqued to keep the small O-ring in place. It's slow but it still seeps. Been that way since the beginning. Still looks like a weak point in the design though.
 
Originally Posted By: georgemiller
I also have 2011 Camry. I have never loosened nut in center of drain canister but just drop whole canister down then put new oil filter in. Yes some oil does come out but what is benefit of center plug in cartridge?


Ditto. I have a 2012 Highlander and have never used the drain in the center of the canister. I always look to make sure there are no leaks and then take the entire thing off. If it ever looks like it is leaking I'll have plenty of o-rings saved up! :) Honestly, I figure the o-ring should be good for a LONG time and I'm more likely to mess something up by continually taking that smaller center drain off/on each time.
 
Update on the Toyota filter leak.

Thought I had the filter drain plug tightened up and everything fixed but the leak continued.

So I just re-did the oil change completely, full drain and new filter.

Found that when I installed the o-ring in the bottom of the filter drain originally, it flopped out of the provided slot and was cut when I tightened it down the first time.

Filter was a Fram Ultra with the nitrile gaskets o-rings. It cut pretty easily. I didn't feel any resistance when it sheared.
 
I gave up on the whole drain plug thing on both of my toyotas. Took too long plus all the other drawbacks mentioned already. Drop the whole housing and just clean it up with shop towels. New housing o ring and filter and good to go.
 
That may be my new SOP.

If I do replace the drain gasket, it will be with the bottom of the cap looking up. Gravity will keep the o-ring in place while I'm tightening the plug.
 
Im not a big fan of the Toyota cartridge filter either, never used the drain option. Haven't had any issues with it, i just prefer a regular screw on filters.
 
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