Changing filter on BMW cartridge style

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Any BMW owners out there who have changed the cartridge style filter on their beemer?
I was brought up on changing cartridge style filters on Riley's and Mini's in the 60's and it was easy-one long 7/16 bolt to undo and a solid metal canister you couldn't damage.
But all I've changed for years are the canister style and my BMW has the cartridge style.
I am about to do the first oil and filter change and i have got the correct 86mm cup style filter removal tool but the filter canister has an "o" ring and I am wondering if there are any tricks or tips to installation to avoids leaks or am I overthinking this.
Just want to get some feedback from those who have done it as to what your experience of this was and how easy was it?
Thanks
 
Pull element before draining crankcase and oil the o-ring and reassemble to proper torque. Use the correct certified oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Fredbear
Any BMW owners out there who have changed the cartridge style filter on their beemer?
Plenty of them here.
You are overthinking. There is nothing easier than canister filters, unless they are hard to reach.
 
I have the same on my 2011 Challenger. I always lightly coat the rubber O-ring with the new oil that you are putting in, this will help seal and elimimate any tears. Also mine has the torque spec on the cap, make sure you do not over tighten.
 
I use the special 36mm filter socket to take mine off. The filter comes with a new o-ring. Give it a light coat of oil before slipping it on. I tighten the cap to the spec written on the cap with a torque wrench; takes all the guess-work out of it. Super easy and way less messier than a canister filter. I wish the rest of my cars had the same filter setup.
 
Thanks for all your replies-sounds pretty straightforward and on the BMW 3 series the filter sits right on top of the engine so is well positioned.
 
I have one of each. The 91 has the through-bolt, the 11 has the plastic cap. The 91 is nice because there is no special tool. The 11 is cleaner, since the cap screws down in, so there is no chance of oil sitting on the vessel lip to drip down the side.
 
MY MAZDA CARTRIDGE COMES WITH A NEW O-RING. Ops sorry for the caps. I also use a torque wrench to seat the cap. After one does it numerous times, I suppose you don't need the torque wrench method, but, I always do it anyway.
 
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My BMW airhead bike has a cartridge filter. PIMA. Has two O rings. My son's Nighthawk has a spin on. Takes two seconds.
 
They are insanely easy to do. Remove cap. Pull cartridge, replace o-ring and install new element. Re-install at correct torque.
 
Are you saying that when you pull the filter the oil drains back into the crankcase or does it just drain into filter container?
 
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