TOYOTA OIL DRAIN PLUG GASKET

If 30 ft-lbs is too tight...what would you recommend? I checked the drain plug this morning after driving about 60 miles yesterday and sure enough it was loose again (I ordered new aluminum crush washers and have not received them yet). I torqued it to 25 ft-lbs and thought it felt really tight.
I bet that works. I pull the wrench evenly until I feel the crush. Around 30 #ft maybe? Dunno, but never a leak or loose drain plug.
 
If 30 ft-lbs is too tight...what would you recommend? I checked the drain plug this morning after driving about 60 miles yesterday and sure enough it was loose again (I ordered new aluminum crush washers and have not received them yet). I torqued it to 25 ft-lbs and thought it felt really tight.
I think you need a new oil pan. Likely have failing/damaged oil pan threads.
 
I think you need a new oil pan. Likely have failing/damaged oil pan threads.
There was are ways to fix an oil pan with damaged threads.

Oversize oil pan drain plug that is self taping. Or some kits to re-tap the hole.

There is a Dorman rubber one with a wing nut that you turn to expand the part that goes in the hole to jam it in the hole tight.

But oil pans generally are not that expensive nor difficult to install except of course in a Ford 6.7 PSD.
 
I've had this issue on my 02 Camry and thought I was going nuts. In my example I got the washers off ebay so I blamed them for being knockoffs. After a couple iterations I reached under the car 1000 miles into an OCI and tightened the bolt then, so it's something that goes bad fairly soon after installation.

I recommend aluminum crush washers. Ironically I get the cheapest per unit price I can find on ebay. Yet they work fine.

Changing oil pans, IDK about your exact car, but usually you have to drop the exhaust and that opens a can of worms. Uncooperative fasteners, overextending the flexpipe and tearing it, etc.
 
There was are ways to fix an oil pan with damaged threads.

Oversize oil pan drain plug that is self taping. Or some kits to re-tap the hole.

There is a Dorman rubber one with a wing nut that you turn to expand the part that goes in the hole to jam it in the hole tight.

But oil pans generally are not that expensive nor difficult to install except of course in a Ford 6.7 PSD.
Steel oil pans are generally not repairable. They use a welded nut on the interior wall; there isn’t enough material to perform any repairs.

Also, tapped threads are a poor fix for any fastener that will need to be regularly removed. The threads just aren’t that strong.
 
I remember this happening to me a few times in the past when changing oils. The most recent was the first oil change on my GFs 2025 GX550. I had to use a screw driver to tap the OEM washer off. I prefer using copper washers for drain plugs
 
Steel oil pans are generally not repairable.
the two times I had to repair the oil pan drain plug threads, I was successful, but I did that with the oil pan removed and properly tapped the threads using the correct thread size and then made sure a new or good condition drain plug would go in completely by hand, and I did torque the drain plug to spec a few times before properly installing the oil pan back on the engine.
They use a welded nut on the interior wall;
100%
there isn’t enough material to perform any repairs.
One vehicles that I did the thread repair on, was a personal vehicle, on which I put on 60k miles after the repair, and never had issues.

I would only recommend someone try to fix the threads if they have some experience, and are willing to remove the oil pan and are able to test it before re-installing.

otherwise a new oil pan is the best way to go but I think the OEM Toyota oil pans are expensive, and I would trust my own thread repair over an after market oil pan.
 
Earlier this year, I went looking for some OEM Honda crush washers for my Civic. Yes, I know, I could have just driven to a dealer. Anyway, I was taken aback by the number of people selling counterfeit crush washers. eBay is the worst. Fake "Honda" logo tags everywhere. Gave up and ordered some "Mudder" washers from Amazon, figuring I can always return them if they look bad. Paid $6.50 for 50 washers, and quality looks perfectly fine. There are dozens and dozens of different companies selling parts like this on Amazon and eBay, how can anyone make any real money that way?
 
Toyota I purchased 8 Toyota Genuine gaskets for the fill plugs and drain plugs @ eCVT and Rear Differential.

The part number is 90430-A0003.

Thank you.
 
I use a torque wrench and use the specs from FSM's whenever possible. So, yes, even on the engine oil drain bolt. I break things all time, so I like to think of this of a way to save myself from me...
 
3 Toyota's, torqued to 27 ft-pounds.....
Fresh Toyota washer with the thicker felt part of the washer facing the pan(if you know, you know)......never an issue !
 
I purchase the same type of drain plug gasket from RockAuto in bulk. I believe they are from Ultra-Power, don’t remember exactly.

I’ve never ran into this issue. I used to use a torque wrench, but now I just tighten it, let out an audible “click click,” then say “that ain’t going nowhere.” I haven’t had an issues since doing that 😂.
If you don’t slap the oil pan when you say it you’re asking for trouble.
 
If u want an Over-the-Top gasket for the M12 drain plug. Perfect for a Fumoto valve application that experiences many heat cycles.

Rated for 3000 psi and 390F which is close to the oil’s flash point.
 
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