Toyota Composite Oil Filter Cap STUCK - Any guidance?

When reinstalling the housing I use a 3/8ths stubby ratchet. Dont need much torque. It seals on the O ring not the filter housing. Just bottom it out. Use the retaining tab on the filter housing as added comfort . Some folks bend them back out of the way which makes little sense.

Paco
 
The one in my 2014 Lexus is metal. Idk if it’s original or not. It was harder than it should have been to get off, the first time I did it. Like the wisdom here shows, I’m careful to snug it less than my instincts think it should go. It’s the o-ring sealing it anyway, not torque.
 
I cracked the plastic filter housing on the RX 350 after it had been to the dealer for the last oil change. It took A LOT of torque to get it to move. I replaced it with an aluminum filter housing and between me being the only person to touch the housing from now on and the aluminum I have not had any other problems. I think the plastic housings are more prone to getting stuck if over-torqued as I don't think I've ever heard anyone complain about the aluminum housings as far as issues - regardless if they or the dealership were the last ones to tighten it down.
 
Thanks for the install instructions, but that's not the problem. I will get back to this next week.
I'm wondering if you should try loosening it when cold. Cold might help before things expand with heat.

Then if you get it loosened, drive it to get the oil hot.
 
I'm wondering if you should try loosening it when cold. Cold might help before things expand with heat.

Then if you get it loosened, drive it to get the oil hot.
I already drained and filled the oil. When I got to the filter housing, I got into trouble.
I will get it up high and use appropriate leverage one way or another.

This is a friend's Corolla, so it will get hot just driving over. I believe the heat cycles may be as bad as the bad install.

No worries, I keep telling myself!
 
This is pretty much the key with all of these things. As well as with plastic oil filler caps. Both seal with an O-Ring. O-Rings do NOT require torque to seal. They're not "gaskets" in that regard.

As others have mentioned, when it stops, you're done. Continuing to apply torque after contact is made accomplishes nothing except to assure difficult, if not impossible removal. The problem is few actually know and understand this...... And a large number of them work at oil change places.

For anyone that may have worked at or knows some one who worked at a major chain oil change place …

Do they give you training on how the o rings work to seal compared to a canister filter ? Do they preach torque values or just “you better make sure it’s tight and doesn’t leak”

Maybe they are just shown a quick video about great work environment and culture then handed a couple tools and told to get it done by the boss
 
I ordered the Scion cast aluminum oil filter housing from Toyota online.
PN 15620-40030 Cap Assembly, Oil Filter was $13.79
PN 15643-31050 Plug, Oil Filter Drain was $4.41
With the governor's tax, $19.91 delivered to Stevens Creek Toyota.

The Dorman composite cap looks fine; I would use it in a pinch. I measured the Dorman and the Toyota and everything lined up.
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So just to be clear - the Scion housing uses the same filter element, yes?
 
So just to be clear - the Scion housing uses the same filter element, yes?
The paper element is the same.
The metal filter (Scion) has 2 seals; the larger o-ring for the filter (same) and the smaller seal for the filter drain on the botton of the dilter. The composite filter does not have the bottom drain. It is mounter horizontally.
Our GS350 has a metal filter; I don't bother with the lower drain plug.

Corolla YZZA6 (1 seal)
Scion YZZA7 (2 seals, has smaller seal)

This is my best understanding. Perhaps our Toyota experts can chime in.
 
The paper element is the same.
The metal filter (Scion) has 2 seals; the larger o-ring for the filter (same) and the smaller seal for the filter drain on the botton of the dilter. The composite filter does not have the bottom drain. It is mounter horizontally.
Our GS350 has a metal filter; I don't bother with the lower drain plug.

Corolla YZZA6 (1 seal)
Scion YZZA7 (2 seals, has smaller seal)

This is my best understanding. Perhaps our Toyota experts can chime in.
Ok thank you. I've only serviced an '11 Camry 4cyl and yesterday was looking at my buddy's '15 Tundra 5.7 (which was leaking). Both are vertical with the drain so that's all I've ever seen. Sounds like the Scion would really be a direct fit then.

And yeah, I was just telling my buddy yesterday that I never use the drain. Seems like a waste of time and over-engineering at it's best. I'm actually shocked penny pinchers would allow it -- deleting the drain across all the vehicles that used this style likely would have saved millions.
 
Ok thank you. I've only serviced an '11 Camry 4cyl and yesterday was looking at my buddy's '15 Tundra 5.7 (which was leaking). Both are vertical with the drain so that's all I've ever seen. Sounds like the Scion would really be a direct fit then.

And yeah, I was just telling my buddy yesterday that I never use the drain. Seems like a waste of time and over-engineering at it's best. I'm actually shocked penny pinchers would allow it -- deleting the drain across all the vehicles that used this style likely would have saved millions.
I always use the drain. It saves a significant mess.

I'm not sure how the filter is mounted on the scion, but the drain can only work if the cartridge sits upright. On the 2zr engines, the filter cartridge sits horizontal - so the filter is drained via the cut outs during removal.
 
Ok thank you. I've only serviced an '11 Camry 4cyl and yesterday was looking at my buddy's '15 Tundra 5.7 (which was leaking). Both are vertical with the drain so that's all I've ever seen. Sounds like the Scion would really be a direct fit then.

And yeah, I was just telling my buddy yesterday that I never use the drain. Seems like a waste of time and over-engineering at it's best. I'm actually shocked penny pinchers would allow it -- deleting the drain across all the vehicles that used this style likely would have saved millions.
I don't really have a problem with the cannister style filters. My friend's gorgeous Jeep GC with the turbo diesel V6 has a top side filter. Very easy to service. The composite Toyota is just to susceptable to problems.
 
I don't really have a problem with the cannister style filters. My friend's gorgeous Jeep GC with the turbo diesel V6 has a top side filter. Very easy to service. The composite Toyota is just to susceptable to problems.
I don't care about the filter style one way or the other. I just don't bother with the drain. That's just me. I also don't like onions and prefer blondes (shrug).
 
Brief update. I sandwiched a sheet of paper (slightly abrasive) between the housing and removal tool. Tapped in on squarely with a small ball peen. I could not break it loose. A few of the flutes are patrially broken off. I tried the Toyota and a good fluted/slotted tool. I am afraid I will crack it and render the car not driveable.

There is a great shop not far; I drove it over and they laughed. They showed me their housing tool with a broken off housing in it. They end up breaking them out. They will take the car Friday morning.
 
This indy Toyota shop owner shows how bad an aftermarket housing is plus other useful info.


The issue I have with that video, is he fails to mention one of the more problematic "features" of Toyota spin on filters. That you do not have to deal with from other spin on canister filter manufacturers. (Fram, AC Delco, Motorcraft, Purolator, K&N, and all the rest).

That is the fact Toyota uses a rather small diameter O-Ring against a flat metallic surface to seal the filter. While all other spin on filter manufacturers utilize a wide, thick, hard rubber gasket to establish that same seal.

This becomes an issue for getting the filter stuck, just like what is happening with these cartridge filters. This is because it takes very little torque to compress that O-Ring to where the metal canister comes into direct contact with the block itself. Far less than the, "2/3rds of a turn after the filter makes contact with the block", that is utilized when tightening all other brands of similar oil filters.

Just like the canister type, if you torque beyond that point, you run the risk of getting the filter stuck. I played hell getting the original factory installed, spin on oil filter off my new Toyota. And I already had ordered and received a case of them, (OEM Toyota / Denso oil filters). Now I have 9 of them I can use as suppositories, because I learned the hard way.

You can easily torque these things with one hand up against the mating metal surface. No matter how tight you torque other spin on oil filters, you build up toque gradually as you slowly compress the much thicker, wider rubber gasket. As long as you keep the mating sealing surfaces well greased, you won't have an issue removing them.

That is NOT the case with OEM Toyota canister oil filters. They'll jam up tighter than hell with a minimum of torque..... Just like their canister counterparts. Which is why I'll never use them again.
 
Because these filter housings are prone to problems, maybe Toyletta should put in big letters, "Bottom filter; then turn 1/2 inch." Heck, it seals on the o-ring, not the mating surface. Or maybe something like the Ford plastic drain plugs; a quarter turn or whatever. Some kinda mechanical stop.
 
I think the toyota filter heard you speaking about Tesla again, and wanted to hear more about what you had to say lol
 
I think the toyota filter heard you speaking about Tesla again, and wanted to hear more about what you had to say lol
Well, Tesla is the #2 overall seller in CA, 1 in 10 cars sold. Toyota is #1. But the Model Y is #1 seller and Model 3 is #2.
The beautiful Prius was #1 seller in CA for years. The new Prius will fly off the showrooms.

CA is the most competitive car market in the world; lotsa fun here.
 
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