This indy Toyota shop owner shows how bad an aftermarket housing is plus other useful info.
The issue I have with that video, is he fails to mention one of the more problematic "features" of Toyota spin on filters. That you do not have to deal with from other spin on canister filter manufacturers. (Fram, AC Delco, Motorcraft, Purolator, K&N, and all the rest).
That is the fact Toyota uses a rather small diameter O-Ring against a flat metallic surface to seal the filter. While all other spin on filter manufacturers utilize a wide, thick, hard rubber
gasket to establish that same seal.
This becomes an issue for getting the filter stuck, just like what is happening with these cartridge filters. This is because it takes very little torque to compress that O-Ring to where the metal canister comes into direct contact with the block itself. Far less than the, "2/3rds of a turn after the filter makes contact with the block", that is utilized when tightening all other brands of similar oil filters.
Just like the canister type, if you torque beyond that point, you run the risk of getting the filter stuck. I played hell getting the
original factory installed, spin on oil filter off my new Toyota. And I already had ordered and received a case of them, (OEM Toyota / Denso oil filters). Now I have 9 of them I can use as suppositories, because I learned the hard way.
You can easily torque these things with one hand up against the mating metal surface. No matter how tight you torque other spin on oil filters, you build up toque gradually as you slowly compress the much thicker, wider rubber gasket. As long as you keep the mating sealing surfaces well greased, you won't have an issue removing them.
That is
NOT the case with OEM Toyota canister oil filters. They'll jam up tighter than hell with a minimum of torque..... Just like their canister counterparts. Which is why I'll never use them again.