Toyota Composite Oil Filter Cap STUCK - Any guidance?

billt460 said:
More like Sunglasses,it's that obvious. The fact is these type of disasters are far more prevalent with these molded, plastic housings. Not to mention far messier. Not only that, but many are destroyed upon removal, (much like the photo in this thread shows).

It doesn't matter what happens to a steel canister in order to get it off, because it's going in the can regardless. No matter how you look at these things, they're far more problem prone. Especially when you've got some kid doing it for a few bucks above minimum wage, with the mechanical aptitude of a bullfrog.
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Just a fact. A person today can hardly look at any workplace that does not have the HELP WANTED on the doors. Manager at a quickie lube place I was talking to in line at autozone one day was telling me he cant hire/fire or keep them fast or long enough. He said to keep doors open his has stooped to putting young guys right out of high school on the job and has to watch them close as most have zero experience or mechanical aptitude. Are there too many interested in so many other things they are getting no real world experience? One manager told me that guys who left for covid told him straight up, they were getting almost twice money a month to stay home. They said they were not going back until Uncle Sam shut off the money. He says lots still do not return anyway.
 
Vern_in_IL said:
Surely there is someone in the aftermarket that is making these out of bullet aluminum?
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I did a little research; the Scion engines used a metal filter housing cap instead of the composite. I ordered one; there are some OEM ones left. There are also aftermarket. I ordered one from Toyota.
The Dorman will go back unless the cast metal one peters out. Even if it does, I will probably get a genuine Toyota cap.
I called the dealer; they quoted me $80 something for the composite; they do have them in stock. Crazy.
 
SammyChevelleTypeS3 said:
Just a fact. A person today can hardly look at any workplace that does not have the HELP WANTED on the doors. Manager at a quickie lube place I was talking to in line at autozone one day was telling me he cant hire/fire or keep them fast or long enough. He said to keep doors open his has stooped to putting young guys right out of high school on the job and has to watch them close as most have zero experience or mechanical aptitude. Are there too many interested in so many other things they are getting no real world experience? One manager told me that guys who left for covid told him straight up, they were getting almost twice money a month to stay home. They said they were not going back until Uncle Sam shut off the money. He says lots still do not return anyway.
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It's amazing how our government has gone so far out of it's way to, "protect us". And in the process instill such a viable work ethic in our up and coming generation.
 
I had one break with the old MotivX tool, it also didn’t help OilStop(now VIOC) did the last oil change. I now use the new MotivX American made tool and either a torque wrench set to 25Nm(Toyota spec) or STOP when the ratchet stops turning - no more. No problems since.
 
billt460 said:
Yeah, I get all that. But oil caps didn't used to require "directions", so they wouldn't jam up and cause issues. I don't have an issue with them either. But that doesn't change the fact the design, along with the materials used in it, (plastic on plastic), begs for problems.

And when you take into account that the bulk of these quicky lube joints don't exactly employ NASA engineers, it all begs for problems that never existed before. Jeff's situation proves that if it proves anything.

These "engineers" all seem to be on a mission to get away from proven designs and materials that did nothing but work. In favor of one's that are problem prone. All to save a buck fifty per vehicle... If that.
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Many canister oil filters have "directions" on them how much to tighten them. Some grease monkey puts the traditional canister oil filter too tight, it's going to be a bear getting it removed, until you give up and drive a screwdriver through it and hope one can still crack it loose.

That being said, never had issues with VW oil filter caps... 20 Nm and a torque wrench and never had issues.
 
billt460 said:
It's amazing how our government has gone so far out of it's way to, "protect us". And in the process instill such a viable work ethic in our up and coming generation.
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Just read an article that says though we have millions of unfilled (good) paying job openings, AND we have more than 7,000,000 young working aged men who have decided they will not work. Questions are now being asked by reporters and others to the effect of Exactly how do these working aged men, live, eat, have iphones, ipads, roofs over their heads etc..... since supposedly the gov hand outs have ended. Not political as no one is pointing fingers YET. I did not even know this when I typed that earlier comment and just found out about the millions of able bodied who refuse job offers. THE END.
 
SammyChevelleTypeS3 said:
Just read an article that says though we have millions of unfilled (good) paying job openings, AND we have more than 7,000,000 young working aged men who have decided they will not work. Questions are now being asked by reporters and others to the effect of Exactly how do these working aged men, live, eat, have iphones, ipads, roofs over their heads etc..... since supposedly the gov hand outs have ended. Not political as no one is pointing fingers YET. I did not even know this when I typed that earlier comment and just found out about the millions of able bodied who refuse job offers. THE END.
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THAT is the $64,000.00 question. I've not yet heard a viable answer.
 
UG_Passat said:
Many canister oil filters have "directions" on them how much to tighten them. Some grease monkey puts the traditional canister oil filter too tight, it's going to be a bear getting it removed, until you give up and drive a screwdriver through it and hope one can still crack it loose.
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This is pretty much the key with all of these things. As well as with plastic oil filler caps. Both seal with an O-Ring. O-Rings do NOT require torque to seal. They're not "gaskets" in that regard.

As others have mentioned, when it stops, you're done. Continuing to apply torque after contact is made accomplishes nothing except to assure difficult, if not impossible removal. The problem is few actually know and understand this...... And a large number of them work at oil change places.
 
UG_Passat said:
Some grease monkey puts the traditional canister oil filter too tight, it's going to be a bear getting it removed, until you give up and drive a screwdriver through it and hope one can still crack it loose.
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The main thing that causes problems with spin on disposable oil filters, is lack of lubrication on the sealing gasket when they are being installed. (Toyota is the only manufacturer that I know of that uses O-Rings to seal a spin on oil filter).

And they will easily jam up if torqued after the filter "stops", after making metal to metal contact... Just like these plastic canister cartridge filter housings will. And it takes very little torque to reach that point.

There is no advantage to using an O-Ring for this type of application on a spin on oil filter, (round seal against a flat mating surface), which is why I don't use Toyota oil filters.

If you keep the rubber gasket well oiled or greased, (grease is better because it won't dry out during long OCI intervals), there won't be an issue with using them.

They become gradually tighter as you add torque. If they're lubricated properly they'll come right off. I've installed and removed literally hundreds of spin on oil filters, and never had one that I had to destroy to get off.

I came close with one. And that was a Toyota filter. It became difficult because of the reasons I mentioned above. Every other manufacturers filters are not a problem because they use a flat, somewhat thick and wide rubber gasket that never allows metal to metal contact with the mating engine part.
 
KrisZ said:
Is that sucker off yet? I want to know what it took to get it off and how long of an extension had to be used.
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I will report back when I work on it. I am waiting on the Dorman cap, which I probably won't use, and the Toyota cast metal cap. I may even end up with another composite Toyota cap. I will use a long Matco breaker bar, maybe even with a cheater added...
I may try a drift and hammer on one of the ears... Who the heck knows?

Wait for the next thrilling episode, next week.
 
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billt460 said:
I don't understand why they continue to use composite, (read cheap plastic), for these type of applications? Plastic, combined with motor oil equals sticking and seizing. Especially with a monkey at Jiffy Lube at the other end.

The plastic oil filler caps most all vehicles use are bad enough. All 3 of my vehicles have them, and even with cleaning and greasing the sealing surfaces and O-Rings, (which I do with every oil change), I still have to be cautious when I tighten them. I barely go 2 finger tight. Or else they're a bear to remove.

I can't imagine tightening mating plastic surfaces to almost 20 foot pounds. This has to be a common occurrence. I'm thankful all 3 of my cars utilize metallic, spin on oil filters.

They never should have gotten away from the old stamped metal, 1/4 turn on / off oil filler caps, with the cork or fiber sealing gasket. All they did was work...... Effortlessly. Now, it's yet another thing they've gone and, "improved".
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The plastic filter housing cap on my BMWs was about the most reliable part. Anything used incorrectly is a problem. I bet it was tightened with power tools like the YouTube mechanics love to do.
 
JeffKeryk said:
I will report back when I work on it. I am waiting on the Dorman cap, which I probably won't use, and the Toyota cast metal cap. I may even end up with another composite Toyota cap. I will use a long Matco breaker bar, maybe even with a cheater added...
I may try a drift and hammer on one of the ears... Who the heck knows?

Wait for the next thrilling episode, next week.
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If you are ready to hammer - 20v impact would produce more impulses and balanced force …
 
4WD said:
😷 Been changing oil “warm only” for years - 0W20 dumps like water when just warm … 😷
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What temperature is "wam"? It would be interesting to compare how 0W30 "dumps" when at the same temperature. I bet it's quite similar to the 0W20 at operational temperatures.
 
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4WD said:
If you are ready to hammer - 20v impact would produce more impulses and balanced force …
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My fear with the impact is, what if I crack it and still can't remove it? Then the car is stuck.
But the Makita cordless is close at hand... Short bursts or rock-n-roll?
 
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JeffKeryk said:
My fear with the impact is, what if I crack it and still can't remove it? Then the car is stuck.
But the Makita cordless is close at hand... Short bursts or rock-n-roll?
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Good vibes ! I’d try short bursts once the new caps are in hand …

This is a more extreme video - but we know it’s percussion bc you are not holding hundreds of lb/ft with a hand grip

 
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