Toyota Composite Oil Filter Cap STUCK - Any guidance?

Most of us have dealt with stuck cannister(?) filters as well. Stab a screwdriver through it, right?
I'vs serviced my friend's Jeep GC with the turbo diesel V6; top side composite housing. Never a problem.

This will be a fun one. I like a challenge. Just gotta get this little Corolla high enough...
The new housing will be here tomorrow. In the old days, we used to use a sheet of paper wedge the filter wrench on more securely.
Gonna try that as well. All good.

I am still chicken to use an impact... Not there yet. I appreciate all your help and guidance.
 
Buy a new cap first, then buy a strap wrench. Attempt to remove the old cap and replace with the new cap.
 
Looks like our Lexus setup - the most annoying part is knowing my Pentastar has it top/front …
I have two wrenches and a spare cap after pulling it behind the dealership - not bad after that …
 
You're quite quick to judge and criticize without knowing all the facts. Toyota has moved away from the system you're complaining about. It's been a few years since they've moved back to the spin-on filters.

That $1.50 per vehicle equates to millions saved. I watched a video about the development of a recent Mustang model, and it showed the design and engineering teams at a meeting. In this meeting, they were debating the value of a single bolt to secure a part. The cost was pennies for the bolt. When the debate was over, and the decision was made not to use the bolt, one of the team said, "We just saved the company $500,000."
First off, we're talking about 2 different things. Reread my post and you'll see I was mostly referring to oil filler caps. Just as I showed in my links. And the crappy plastic oil filler caps are actually more expensive than the metal 1/4 turn twist on & off caps..... That lasted forever, and never got stuck.

Be that as it may, petroleum and plastic cause problems. The plastic can and does swell, and can cause seizing. This is a common issue, and is the subject of this thread.

Plastic oil filler caps are subject to the exact same sticking and seizing problems if installed too snugly. Put them on the slightest bit too tight, (especially when hot), and you'll need Channel Locks to get them off...... Assuming you don't break them in the process. I know people who have....... Just like the cheap plastic oil filter housings.

And Toyota, along with most other manufacturers have screw on, plastic oil filler caps. I would gladly pay another $10 bucks for a car that didn't have either of them. As most would, who knew the problems they can and do cause. Toyota went back to spin on metal oil filters for a reason.
 
First off, we're talking about 2 different things. Reread my post and you'll see I was mostly referring to oil filler caps. Just as I showed in my links. And the crappy plastic oil filler caps are actually more expensive than the metal 1/4 turn twist on & off caps..... That lasted forever, and never got stuck.

Be that as it may, petroleum and plastic cause problems. The plastic can and does swell, and can cause seizing. This is a common issue, and is the subject of this thread.

Plastic oil filler caps are subject to the exact same sticking and seizing problems if installed too snugly. Put them on the slightest bit too tight, (especially when hot), and you'll need Channel Locks to get them off...... Assuming you don't break them in the process. I know people who have....... Just like the cheap plastic oil filter housings.

And Toyota, along with most other manufacturers have screw on, plastic oil filler caps. I would gladly pay another $10 bucks for a car that didn't have either of them. As most would, who knew the problems they can and do cause. Toyota went back to spin on metal oil filters for a reason.
When did Toyota go back to metal spin on filters?

In a thread about oil filters, filter housings, and torque, I didn’t realize you were talking about fill caps.

There is a big difference between the torque required, and ability to over tighten, a fill cap (done by hand) and a filter housing (using a tool).

Plastic and composite aren’t really the same thing. Plastic doesn’t have the fiber reinforcement of composites.
 
When did Toyota go back to metal spin on filters?

In a thread about oil filters, filter housings, and torque, I didn’t realize you were talking about fill caps.

There is a big difference between the torque required, and ability to over tighten, a fill cap (done by hand) and a filter housing (using a tool).

Plastic and composite aren’t really the same thing. Plastic doesn’t have the fiber reinforcement of composites.
My Camry is a 2018 and it has one. Are we talking about, "gone back to", (pre 2018)... Or, "changed to since then", (post 2018)?
 
How about spraying canned air (upside down) liquid around the cap close to the threads, maybe it will help the plastic contract just a little, enough to break the hold? Possibly run the engine, get the block warm and then spray it for maximum temperature difference?
This is what the Toyota dealership does when they service mine.
 
When did Toyota go back to metal spin on filters?

In a thread about oil filters, filter housings, and torque, I didn’t realize you were talking about fill caps.

There is a big difference between the torque required, and ability to over tighten, a fill cap (done by hand) and a filter housing (using a tool).

Plastic and composite aren’t really the same thing. Plastic doesn’t have the fiber reinforcement of composites.
2021 Lexus here - have a spare composite (OEM) cap and 2 aluminum wrenches …
Off with break over bar - on with T handle … but I run 2 OCI’s on the filter and they can be stubborn - Whereas XG10575’s are no kinder when the gasket sticks on my V8’s …
 
As a multi-Toyota vehicle owner who has performed over 100 oil changes across Toyotas with the cartridge style filter and nearly all of them with the "composite" or "POS plastic" filter housing, I have this to say -

Those of you who can't figure out how to properly use this style of filter to your advantage, to keep raging, hot oil from pouring down your arm when removing the filter, to make much less of a mess overall, I don't know what to say. Those of you who exclaim hate over this style of filter, the housing, etc., - I bet you also boast your intelligence here and elsewhere.

No, I didn't like it, either, when I first owned a Toyota with this. I hated it. But after 3-4 oil changes, I developed a plan that seems so simple and elementary, I don't want to change a vehicle with metal canister filters that require spinning them off while full of molten, hot oil and in the process, sling that hot oil in a 6-12" radius pattern everywhere.

Have I struggled at times to remove the plastic filter housing THAT I INSTALLED? Yep. Sure have. I mean struggled, but I didn't break anything or such. It just took a little more force than I expected.

I'll say this - I've learned to STOP tightening the housing when it stops. If you know, you know. I've also learned that through heat/cold cycles, whatever... the housing tightens itself even more. I know this, I expect it. The O-ring swells. This contributes.

What's my magical process? This-

Gather my tools (3/8" ratchet, 6" extension, 14mm socket, filter wrench, pick), 3 gallon bucket (there's 2 gallons in my 5.7L engines), oil filter box with filter, drain fitting and two o-rings, crush washer and handful of paper towels.

First thing I do is take the filler cap off and pull the dipstick. Then crawl under and break the drain bolt loose, nothing more. Just break it. Next thing is break the button loose on the bottom of the filter, then the filter housing loose and then do about 3-4 full turns. This lets some air into the housing. Then I remove the button on the bottom. There's a teaspoon of oil there. Then I put my bucket under the filter, push the drain fitting up into the filter and let it drain. So far I have little to zero oil all over me.

Meanwhile, I'm breaking wrapper off the o-rings and getting the filter out of the box. Filter is almost done draining, I take a piece of paper towel, grab the drain fitting, pull it out, soak up some oil and put it in the filter box. Then I spin the filter housing off, take the filter out, wrap a paper towel around it and shove it in the empty filter box. Take a paper towel and wipe/clean the filter area. Take the pick, remove the o-rings, put new o-rings on, wipe some oil on them, put the new filter in and re-install the filter housing. So far, little to no oil all over me, my hands, my arms.

Next I position the bucket about a foot forward of the drain plug, hand loosen the plug a couple of turns, take the pick and loosen the crush washer and then finish taking the plug out. At this point, I'll crawl out and start cleaning up, getting the two 5-quart jugs ready. Many times I'll remember to tear the cartridge filter apart while I still have 'dirty' gloves on and look for wear in the pleats. LOOK - you can easily look in your filter media for debris/damage/warning signs with these types of filters!!!

Crawl back under after however long, clean the drain hole area, new crush washer, tighten drain plug goodentight, make sure filter housing is tight, crawl out. Fill'er up, crank'er up, back off ramps and clean up.



Oh yeah - if you bought that POS Doorman filter housing, that's a big mistake. Just saying. There's plenty of info out there about that.
 
Wait until the new housing arrives before cranking on it.
right, they are making so many parts out of plastic now its just so many new opportunties to crack something else while doing another job. Some years back my son had a Jeep Compass we went to buy a transmission pan gasket for and the service manager said "well I may as well order you guys the new pan as well because everyone who comes in for the gasket comes back in a few days and says the cheap made pan warped badly and now must be replaced. He got rid of that one fast. Plastic on plastic over tight is not a good result in some cases as they both end up cracked. Be willing to bet that was put on at a quicky lube who change workers like we change socks.
 
I have the same filter set-up, and have never had any problems removing the composite filter cap so far, not even the time I took the filter cap off after the dealer had last installed it. Evidently they didn't absurdly overtighten it the way some idiots like to. It doesn't even need the full 18 ft-lb, unless you have an especially snug O-ring and forget to oil it before installation. It won't back out and leak, as long as it's fully seated against the flange. (Sealing force on the O-ring is radial, not axial against the flange surface.)

Good idea to buy another cap before taking extreme measures! I bought a spare, just in case, but have never needed it.

I use an inexpensive (~$4) stamped-steel filter tool, which works well. However, I can see that its thin 3/8"-square drive hole might not survive extreme torque.

There's nothing wrong with those caps or the overall filter set-up. The problem is careless or incompetent people changing the filter. I like being able to inspect the media surface before and after use, without having to cut steel.

My brother changes the oil and cartridge filters of his daughter's 2013 Corolla. He's never mentioned any difficulty getting the caps off (but rightly complains access to the filter and drain plug is more inconvenient than on other cars).
 
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As a multi-Toyota vehicle owner who has performed over 100 oil changes across Toyotas with the cartridge style filter and nearly all of them with the "composite" or "POS plastic" filter housing, I have this to say -

Those of you who can't figure out how to properly use this style of filter to your advantage, to keep raging, hot oil from pouring down your arm when removing the filter, to make much less of a mess overall, I don't know what to say. Those of you who exclaim hate over this style of filter, the housing, etc., - I bet you also boast your intelligence here and elsewhere.

No, I didn't like it, either, when I first owned a Toyota with this. I hated it. But after 3-4 oil changes, I developed a plan that seems so simple and elementary, I don't want to change a vehicle with metal canister filters that require spinning them off while full of molten, hot oil and in the process, sling that hot oil in a 6-12" radius pattern everywhere.

Have I struggled at times to remove the plastic filter housing THAT I INSTALLED? Yep. Sure have. I mean struggled, but I didn't break anything or such. It just took a little more force than I expected.

I'll say this - I've learned to STOP tightening the housing when it stops. If you know, you know. I've also learned that through heat/cold cycles, whatever... the housing tightens itself even more. I know this, I expect it. The O-ring swells. This contributes.

What's my magical process? This-

Gather my tools (3/8" ratchet, 6" extension, 14mm socket, filter wrench, pick), 3 gallon bucket (there's 2 gallons in my 5.7L engines), oil filter box with filter, drain fitting and two o-rings, crush washer and handful of paper towels.

First thing I do is take the filler cap off and pull the dipstick. Then crawl under and break the drain bolt loose, nothing more. Just break it. Next thing is break the button loose on the bottom of the filter, then the filter housing loose and then do about 3-4 full turns. This lets some air into the housing. Then I remove the button on the bottom. There's a teaspoon of oil there. Then I put my bucket under the filter, push the drain fitting up into the filter and let it drain. So far I have little to zero oil all over me.

Meanwhile, I'm breaking wrapper off the o-rings and getting the filter out of the box. Filter is almost done draining, I take a piece of paper towel, grab the drain fitting, pull it out, soak up some oil and put it in the filter box. Then I spin the filter housing off, take the filter out, wrap a paper towel around it and shove it in the empty filter box. Take a paper towel and wipe/clean the filter area. Take the pick, remove the o-rings, put new o-rings on, wipe some oil on them, put the new filter in and re-install the filter housing. So far, little to no oil all over me, my hands, my arms.

Next I position the bucket about a foot forward of the drain plug, hand loosen the plug a couple of turns, take the pick and loosen the crush washer and then finish taking the plug out. At this point, I'll crawl out and start cleaning up, getting the two 5-quart jugs ready. Many times I'll remember to tear the cartridge filter apart while I still have 'dirty' gloves on and look for wear in the pleats. LOOK - you can easily look in your filter media for debris/damage/warning signs with these types of filters!!!

Crawl back under after however long, clean the drain hole area, new crush washer, tighten drain plug goodentight, make sure filter housing is tight, crawl out. Fill'er up, crank'er up, back off ramps and clean up.



Oh yeah - if you bought that POS Doorman filter housing, that's a big mistake. Just saying. There's plenty of info out there about that.
Agreed, however my post is about the botched installation. Is the composite style filter bad design? You can make that case, at least for the propensity for difficult removal. I understand even a slight overtightening, with many heat cycles on 10K OCIs can make these filters difficult to remove. It shouldn't be that way; that's asking for trouble. And of course you need the special tool, so there's that. The Jeep GC I service has a cast in nut for removal. That's a better design.
Didn't Toyota go back to the can style in 2016 or 2017 on the Corollas? Dunno for sure...

I may run over to one of the local dealerships and pick up a genuine filter cap. I think they run about $60. Thanks for the Dorman heads up.

If you see my car list, I have 2 vehicles of my own that use the cannister style; these have never been a problem to remove. They are metal, of course and have been installed by me. I bottom the filter and give it another tiny turn, less than half inch.
 
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