Toyota brake clank/clack noise

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Not, the pokey stick™ is a subset of suitable tool. If you don't have any, it's worth getting a few in different sizes. They're great!
 
More test results
(I could not find metric pokey sticks so I used a box store wooden paint stirrer - the paint counter guy said that would be an ok substitute - paint guy knows all- right?)
test 3- jack car up under drivers door wheel off ground.
bang on tire tread at about 4 o clock position (faces fender splash shield), you get clanging noise.
Insert paint stirrer thru the wheel and push on the caliper where it faces you as you look in, still get noise
while banging. same when pushing down on the caliper or up. no noise change.also when pushing on brake pad edge, no change

test 4.. insert stirrer flat thru the wheel to the Top of the caliper. . lay it on the top of the thin brake hardware metal piece jammed between the hardware piece and the caliper BRACKET - bang away on tire - no noise.
How do I post a pix? I have a small image pix of this, looks like it may be bent somewhat as the hardware piece does not touch the caliper bracket- should it?
 
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Originally Posted By: ChrisW
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Lubing the back of the pads is not necessary per Toyota,


But it is standard on every Doog brake job. Always quiet when you lube the pads, pins and pinch points.


I believe Toyota [as does Honda on their OE pads] instruct to apply grease between the pad's backing plate and the shims for applications that have multi-layer 'clip-on' shims, however, agreeing with Critic, it is not necessary to put grease on the back of the shims in between the shims and any caliper piston/ear contact points. Just thinking about this from a mechanical point of view, if the grease/noise suppressant substance in-between the shim and pad's backing plate isn't reducing the vibration then I wouldn't think additional grease on the back of the shims would help except to necessarily cover up the root cause of failed grease/noise suppressant between the backing plate and shim. Some pads have bonded [nitrile coated] shims, which do not necessarily require grease on the back of the shims. I don't use grease on bonded shims and have had nary a noise except when there is excessive dust buildup or after a car-wash.

To the OP, I'm inclined to think it's worn brake pad hardware otherwise known as abutment clips. I'm not sure if the OE Toyota hardware is nitrile coated, and I don't recall the OE Toyota pads come with new abutment hardware except perhaps shims, however, I know that Carlson and Raybestos [and some 'BrakeBest' O'Reiily's] have hardware kits that are nitrile coated to help suppress noise. I use new hardware [abutment clips, pin boots and pin busshings if any] each time when servicing the brakes, and try to use the nitrile coated if an application is available. I had pad clanking with my Mazda6 [which the dealer called normal] that cleared up when I installed Bendix CT-3 pads which came with new abutment clips, not coated, however I believe that a huge contributor to pad clanking and brake noise in general is due to worn and ill-fitting hardware. Last time I installed OE Toyota pads was on the many-years ago Previa, they were Sumitomo/Advics and the pad backing plate was stamped and painted very well so I don't think it's a poorly stamped backing plate but it can happen.


This is a real nice response but I have had 5 Toyotas and all of them click at about 20k into a set of pads. If you lube the pads = no clicking at 50-60,000 miles into a set of pads. So if Toyota says the Moon is made of cheese...and the world is flat I'll still lube the pads. Because it works.
 
If you're talking about that curved bit of thin sheep metal then it clip securely into the bracket and hold itself there with it's own spring tension. This thing which you may call a support plate or an abutment clip or rattle clip or any of several other names should also always touch the pad so it doesn't get a chance to rattle. If it isn't staying tightly in place in the bracket it is bent or corroded. You can take it off and examine it, but at this point I'd just spend the $5 or $10 for a new hardware kit.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
If you're talking about that curved bit of thin sheep metal then it clip securely into the bracket and hold itself there with it's own spring tension. This thing which you may call a support plate or an abutment clip or rattle clip or any of several other names should also always touch the pad so it doesn't get a chance to rattle. If it isn't staying tightly in place in the bracket it is bent or corroded. You can take it off and examine it, but at this point I'd just spend the $5 or $10 for a new hardware kit.


yes, the thin part that goes from side to side across the rotor does not mash against the caliper bracket, dont know if thats normal , need to post my picture of it somehow.
 
A picture with everything assembled won't help much. You'll have to remove the caliper and the pads and probably the bracket to see what's going on. Seeing it apart you'll understand how it's supposed to work.
 
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