Toyota 5.7L burning oil

Drew7a

Thread starter
Messages
213
Location
Great Lakes
Checked the oil 2 weeks and 609 miles later. No detectable consumption 🤔.

One thing I did notice is M1 at 600 miles is darker and looks used compared to the RGT that came out which almost looked new.

I will continue to monitor.
 
Messages
118
Checked the oil 2 weeks and 609 miles later. No detectable consumption 🤔.

One thing I did notice is M1 at 600 miles is darker and looks used compared to the RGT that came out which almost looked new.

I will continue to monitor.
I have used TGMO, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 in my 2019 5.7 Tundra. When I drain at 10,000, the only one that was not still partially amber in color was the TGMO, it was dark.
 

Drew7a

Thread starter
Messages
213
Location
Great Lakes
Thread Update!

I’m totally stumped closing in on 1500 miles since oil change Oil is super dark but barely moved on dipstick.

Pulled the plugs and they are all nice and tan colored. I would have expected them to have some carbon with the amount of consumption.

Can find a leak either 🤷‍♂️.

I originally though the ab control ring may have gotten stuck. But I there should have been some indication in the plugs and some tailpipe smoke I would guess.
 
Messages
804
Location
MA
Thread Update!

I’m totally stumped closing in on 1500 miles since oil change Oil is super dark but barely moved on dipstick.

Pulled the plugs and they are all nice and tan colored. I would have expected them to have some carbon with the amount of consumption.

Can find a leak either 🤷‍♂️.

I originally though the ab control ring may have gotten stuck. But I there should have been some indication in the plugs and some tailpipe smoke I would guess.
I find all Mobil oils turn dark quickly which means absolutely nothing. Color is not a reliable indicator of anything.
 
Messages
139
Location
Minnesota
For what it's worth. I have a 2002 Tacoma with the 3.4L. I have done 10k OCIs since 50k miles. I'm at 262k and it never used oil between 10k changes with the exception of Rotella 5w-40. It used over a quart. Could have been 2 as I don't remember. This was at about 175k.

Other than that run, it's had PUP 5w-30, M1 5w-40 TDT, Delvac 15w-40, and M1 5w-50. Never used a drop with the with a 10k OCI.
 
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1,903
Location
USA
Think outside the box. What causes oil to burn? I don’t know a lot about things, but it is mainly the rings or valve guides I believe. So if one oil is tackier, has more “tackifier”, it will cling in the valve guides better, if maybe they are a bit worn or the stem seals are not good. While another oil will not stick nearly as much, causing oil burning. How’s that? In any case you solved your problem and that is what matters.
 
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1,847
Location
Laramie, WY
My experience has shown that some cars like certain oils. My 19' Sorento burned M1 and not PP. My 03' Matrix burns everything, so go figure with that. Find one that doesn't burn and go with that. As long as it's fill synth, you're good. If M1 doesn't burn for you, then use it.
um your 03 matrix has stuck oil control piston rings, its got nothing to with which oil you use after you have reached that point...I rebuilt 99 of those engines, they are fantastic once you clean up and re-drill original oil return holes and double the quantity...

my experience has only been Toyotas 4 and 6 cylinders, and I have never experienced oil brand making a difference in oil consumption from switching.

now I have seen those 1zz-fe motors with full synthetic vs conventional oil maintenance, and full synthetics were simply clean and new inside, whereas most all other oil types used were moderate to severe discoloration.
 
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2,868
Location
pa
a great informative read from machinery lubrication, as usual. lots of facts not just typical bla bla + as i always note ONLY the PROS know whats in our oils if given the proper info. looking at redlines performance oils you will see a trend with a noack at 9 for 0-20 to 0-30 + a better noack of 6 from various oils with higher visocity cold ratings aka 10-30 etc + reading the machinery lubrication article noting higher burn off from lighter oils.
 
Messages
416
Location
Kansas
Whenever I see mysterious oil consumption in an engine in which it is not common, such as a known reliable low mileage one as this, the simplest things are often not considered or overlooked in favor dwelling on much more complex, expensive possibilities. In a lot of those cases changing the PCV solves it, however I'm not sure the PCV would cause the amounts of consumption you describe. It is easy and cheap to try at least.
 
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Kql

Messages
27
Think outside the box. What causes oil to burn? I don’t know a lot about things, but it is mainly the rings or valve guides I believe. So if one oil is tackier, has more “tackifier”, it will cling in the valve guides better, if maybe they are a bit worn or the stem seals are not good. While another oil will not stick nearly as much, causing oil burning. How’s that? In any case you solved your problem and that is what matters.
Valve guides seals aren't a major source of oil burning, heck engines didn't even offer to have them. And when you say "rings" , oil control rings and compression rings serve two different purposes, oil control rings for instance have nothing to do with compression.
 
Messages
1,221
Location
Berks County/Pa.
Like all mechanical things, there are variations between individual engines of the same type. Add in 0W-water thin oil and even the most minor of imperfections can lead to oil consumption. While the Toyota engines are known to be of very high quality, it would not be surprising to find that a more conventional viscosity solved and/or prevented the problem.

Honda/Acura had and still has a rash of oil consumption issues. Mostly due to the low tension piston rings, failing to seal after far less than 0.001 inches of wear. That's right! A wear number so low, it's measured with 4 significant digits. It's interesting to note that the components removed from those Honda engines often still meet new specifications. Replacement with upgraded parts (read more conventional) solves the problem and the engines go on to live for the typical and expected long lifespan.

What we are seeing are, to some extent, oil related failures. We can successfully use low tension piston rings in bores with tight tolerance control (high quality). But add in wild temperature swings, ultra thin oils, cylinder deactivation, and long oil change intervals and the ability of a thin, low tension ring to seal can be compromised. This should come as no surprise.

In much the same way that it's no surprise that timing chains stretch (wear) much more quickly when engines are operated with thin oils, contaminated with soot and fuel for extended drain intervals.
What specific Honda/Acura engines? My J-series Acura also?
 

Drew7a

Thread starter
Messages
213
Location
Great Lakes
Update:

Just shy of 3000 miles since OC. Dipstick remains the same, no usage.

Conclusion I came to: Must have had a stuck oil control ring and by coincidence just happened to be using RGT. 🤷‍♂ Why did M1 turn quickly? black? Did it it unstick the ring?

As long as it is not using oil my friend is happy.

Thanks for the helpful suggestions.

Nothing more to report.
 
Messages
804
Location
MA
Update:

Just shy of 3000 miles since OC. Dipstick remains the same, no usage.

Conclusion I came to: Must have had a stuck oil control ring and by coincidence just happened to be using RGT. 🤷‍♂ Why did M1 turn quickly? black? Did it it unstick the ring?

As long as it is not using oil my friend is happy.

Thanks for the helpful suggestions.

Nothing more to report.
I don’t think there was ever an issue. Like 50% of everything on BITOG (including loudness, color, smell, taste, texture when rubbing between the fingers, etc, etc, etc)...it was all in your head.
 
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