I have used TGMO, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 in my 2019 5.7 Tundra. When I drain at 10,000, the only one that was not still partially amber in color was the TGMO, it was dark.Checked the oil 2 weeks and 609 miles later. No detectable consumption .
One thing I did notice is M1 at 600 miles is darker and looks used compared to the RGT that came out which almost looked new.
I will continue to monitor.
I find all Mobil oils turn dark quickly which means absolutely nothing. Color is not a reliable indicator of anything.Thread Update!
I’m totally stumped closing in on 1500 miles since oil change Oil is super dark but barely moved on dipstick.
Pulled the plugs and they are all nice and tan colored. I would have expected them to have some carbon with the amount of consumption.
Can find a leak either .
I originally though the ab control ring may have gotten stuck. But I there should have been some indication in the plugs and some tailpipe smoke I would guess.
Think outside the box. What causes oil to burn?
um your 03 matrix has stuck oil control piston rings, its got nothing to with which oil you use after you have reached that point...I rebuilt 99 of those engines, they are fantastic once you clean up and re-drill original oil return holes and double the quantity...My experience has shown that some cars like certain oils. My 19' Sorento burned M1 and not PP. My 03' Matrix burns everything, so go figure with that. Find one that doesn't burn and go with that. As long as it's fill synth, you're good. If M1 doesn't burn for you, then use it.
Valve guides seals aren't a major source of oil burning, heck engines didn't even offer to have them. And when you say "rings" , oil control rings and compression rings serve two different purposes, oil control rings for instance have nothing to do with compression.Think outside the box. What causes oil to burn? I don’t know a lot about things, but it is mainly the rings or valve guides I believe. So if one oil is tackier, has more “tackifier”, it will cling in the valve guides better, if maybe they are a bit worn or the stem seals are not good. While another oil will not stick nearly as much, causing oil burning. How’s that? In any case you solved your problem and that is what matters.
What specific Honda/Acura engines? My J-series Acura also?Like all mechanical things, there are variations between individual engines of the same type. Add in 0W-water thin oil and even the most minor of imperfections can lead to oil consumption. While the Toyota engines are known to be of very high quality, it would not be surprising to find that a more conventional viscosity solved and/or prevented the problem.
Honda/Acura had and still has a rash of oil consumption issues. Mostly due to the low tension piston rings, failing to seal after far less than 0.001 inches of wear. That's right! A wear number so low, it's measured with 4 significant digits. It's interesting to note that the components removed from those Honda engines often still meet new specifications. Replacement with upgraded parts (read more conventional) solves the problem and the engines go on to live for the typical and expected long lifespan.
What we are seeing are, to some extent, oil related failures. We can successfully use low tension piston rings in bores with tight tolerance control (high quality). But add in wild temperature swings, ultra thin oils, cylinder deactivation, and long oil change intervals and the ability of a thin, low tension ring to seal can be compromised. This should come as no surprise.
In much the same way that it's no surprise that timing chains stretch (wear) much more quickly when engines are operated with thin oils, contaminated with soot and fuel for extended drain intervals.