Toyota 5/0w20 TSB Not Applicable to '03 Corolla?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
4,200
Location
Arizona
I was doing some reading on Toyota's TSB mentioning that certain vehicles that originally called for 5w30 can now run a 20wt safely.

The 1ZZFE is applicable for 5w20, but only for '06+ 1ZZFE's. Anyone know the reasoning for this, or is there an updated TSB?

I want to perform my own "experiment" running an identical course for mpg and 0-60 testing in this car; both with 5w40 and 5/0w20. Want to see the difference between the oils in real world, repeatable conditions. However, not sure if I should if Toyota doesn't backspec the '03 1ZZFE. BTW, I'm pretty sure the '03-08 1ZZFE's are identical. I could do 5w40 vs 0w30 but would really prefer to test the difference between 20wt and 40wt.
 
I would advise against it. There is a reason they didn't back spec that far. You could FUBAR your engine. What reward will you get anyway? While I own 3 Toyota's right now...I will be the first to admit they don't make the best decisions regarding oil.

I will always use what is on the fill cap and never go past a 5000 mile OCI
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: surfstar
The difference between a sheared 5w30 from 2003 and a 0w20 from today is basically nill.


So, start out with fresh sheared 5w30?
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What TSB is that? Or do you mean that back spec chart?


TSB, here's the link: Toyota 5/0w20 TSB

Perhaps I'm reading it incorrectly? The TSB mentions effective for 06-07 models but if you look at the chart at the bottom 5w20 mentions engine families with no model year mention. The 0w20 box states "beginning with MY 2006".
 
I have a 2001 MR2 Spider that as the same engine in it. What I remember being told when I some work done Toyota changed the piston's in the 1ZZFE engine in the 06 and newer engine. that may be the reason.
I run 5w40
 
According to the following Toyota Canada chart, TGMO 0W-20 has been back spec'd to to your 2003 MY and beyond:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2638784&page=1

If you're going to conduct your experiment I suggest you first install oil pressure and oil temp' gauges to monitor your actual operational viscosity. Once you install the gauges you'll likely determine that you can easily maintain the specified minimum engine oil pressure with TGMO 0W-20 even when the oil gets fully hot. That being the case, then there will be no point in testing heavier engine oils.
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike

TSB, here's the link: Toyota 5/0w20 TSB

Perhaps I'm reading it incorrectly? The TSB mentions effective for 06-07 models but if you look at the chart at the bottom 5w20 mentions engine families with no model year mention. The 0w20 box states "beginning with MY 2006".


That TSB is over 7 years old!

Use the info on this chart instead: Toyota Oil Chart

thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What TSB is that? Or do you mean that back spec chart?


TSB, here's the link: Toyota 5/0w20 TSB

Perhaps I'm reading it incorrectly? The TSB mentions effective for 06-07 models but if you look at the chart at the bottom 5w20 mentions engine families with no model year mention. The 0w20 box states "beginning with MY 2006".

Your reading it correctly. Its quite confusing with multiple charts. Whats the bottom line? When that TSB came out in 06, "0w" anything was new. Knowing most Toyotas burn oil (admitted in current service manuals) I would give 0w20 a try. If it burns and leaks like I suspect it will, try a 0w30 or a syn HM 5w20 or syn HM 5w30 like I use.
 
Originally Posted By: gaijinnv
Originally Posted By: panthermike

TSB, here's the link: Toyota 5/0w20 TSB

Perhaps I'm reading it incorrectly? The TSB mentions effective for 06-07 models but if you look at the chart at the bottom 5w20 mentions engine families with no model year mention. The 0w20 box states "beginning with MY 2006".


That TSB is over 7 years old!

Use the info on this chart instead: Toyota Oil Chart


thumbsup2.gif




Nice comprehensive chart thanks! Looks like I can use any of the above.

Caterham, I'm not worried about oil pressures if Toyota says it's ok to use 0w20. Whether I have those gauges installed or not, my mpg will not change. My primary reason for doing this is to see if mpg will change driving a "circuit", in which I'll keep anything I can constant. I've planned out the route which includes 45-65mph stretches and 3 stop signs(total of 102 miles). The main thing I must do is fill up at the same station/pump, and maintain speeds/rpms as close as possible. Also, I will run the route 2 seperate times back to back. When I do this I'll post all of the data and conditions that I can. The 0-60 testing is purely for the [censored] of it.
 
The 1zz was specced for a 40wt in severe service outside of Toyota USA (Lotus applications, Australia, etc.). I'm probably going to move mine to M1 0w40 having learned this, considering how I drive it(hypermiling or WOT).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What TSB is that? Or do you mean that back spec chart?


TSB, here's the link: Toyota 5/0w20 TSB

Perhaps I'm reading it incorrectly? The TSB mentions effective for 06-07 models but if you look at the chart at the bottom 5w20 mentions engine families with no model year mention. The 0w20 box states "beginning with MY 2006".

Your reading it correctly. Its quite confusing with multiple charts. Whats the bottom line? When that TSB came out in 06, "0w" anything was new. Knowing most Toyotas burn oil (admitted in current service manuals) I would give 0w20 a try. If it burns and leaks like I suspect it will, try a 0w30 or a syn HM 5w20 or syn HM 5w30 like I use.


I think I'll go ahead and try the 0w20 then as I have some in the garage now
thumbsup2.gif
After that I'll likely go back to using 30/40wts unless I find I like using the 0w20. Just trying to see if I can get any variance in mpg/performance between a 20 and 40wt oil.
 
Remember, your post 98-02 1ZZ-FE hel-l. Supposedly the piston holes are modded from the factory to fix the MAJOR oil consumption issue in those years. Nobody can be sure, because any deployment of a mod comes during a mfg year, not day 1 of a year.

IMO the fact your using a syn is really all that matters. And maybe a 0w20 will do better for the smaller piston oil returns IF THEY ARE NOT ALREADY CLOGGED! Cause thats how it happened, poor flow through tiny holes.

This is one CATERHAM could help us with. Smaller media? Higher efficiency filter? Smaller piston oil returns? Is 0w20 better for that? Why?

If an older Toyota is jammed up in the holes, 0w20 is a disaster. If the holes are clear, maybe a savior, prevent-er. Because it flows so well. What we Toyota owners need to know.
 
Last edited:
CATERHAM if your listening ..I've been talking for years that 0w20 "depends" with older Toyotas. Using them for daily drivers, torn multiple engines down to the bone. And now spending way too much time talking to repair dudes.. The aluminum thinness causes excess heat around the pistons. Tiny piston oil holes (the repeated bad design) block the holes easily. So if you recommend 0w20 after years of dino, its gonna be bad. You gotta know if shes a burner. Being a Toyota, then answer is likely yes,
 
Last edited:
There is a TSB for an updated dipstick that increases the oil capacity in 05+ and the TSB for 20 weight came out in 06.
 
interesting... been using 5w30 in my buddy's vibe(1zzfe)listed in my sig, by that chart could use 5w20, or 0w20.
no mention of 0w30. i have some GC in my stash, and was hoping to use it...
 
Originally Posted By: mikered30
There is a TSB for an updated dipstick that increases the oil capacity in 05+ and the TSB for 20 weight came out in 06.

+1, the 06+ Corollas took 4.4 qt vs the 3.9 before.
 
Originally Posted By: default
The 1zz was specced for a 40wt in severe service outside of Toyota USA (Lotus applications, Australia, etc.). I'm probably going to move mine to M1 0w40 having learned this, considering how I drive it(hypermiling or WOT).

Lets forget specialized applications such as in S/C'd Lotus Elise/Exige etc or what's spec'd for third world countries.

Since Toyota has back-spec'd the engine for the TGMO 0W-20 means that that's all that's necessary to maintain an optimum operational viscosity plus a normal viscosity reserve to deal with higher than normal oil temp's and fuel dilution.
There is no lubrication advantage to running a heavier oil.
There can be other reasons for running a heavier oil such as reduced oil consumption when constant high rev's and high oil temp's are maintained such as autobahn use or a lot of track-day only use, but if you don't have an oil consumption issue you're better off running the lightest oil specified to maximize fuel economy, power and driveability.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: default
The 1zz was specced for a 40wt in severe service outside of Toyota USA (Lotus applications, Australia, etc.). I'm probably going to move mine to M1 0w40 having learned this, considering how I drive it(hypermiling or WOT).

Lets forget specialized applications such as in S/C'd Lotus Elise/Exige etc or what's spec'd for third world countries.

Since Toyota has back-spec'd the engine for the TGMO 0W-20 means that that's all that's necessary to maintain an optimum operational viscosity plus a normal viscosity reserve to deal with higher than normal oil temp's and fuel dilution.
There is no lubrication advantage to running a heavier oil.
There can be other reasons for running a heavier oil such as reduced oil consumption when constant high rev's and high oil temp's are maintained such as autobahn use or a lot of track-day only use, but if you don't have an oil consumption issue you're better off running the lightest oil specified to maximize fuel economy, power and driveability.


That included the UK of all places, if the mobil application guide is to be believed. Its a buzzy little motor in a not quite lightweight car, if I'm not barely running running it, its probably running at full output getting me on a highway or out of a fun corner. I routinely redline this car through third, that should really warm those [censored] pistons up. Wouldn't a thicker oil be more likely to stick to the hot pistons and transfer heat from them into the cylinder wall?

I'm the kind of person who managed to spin a bearing in a early 5S-FE Camry, which is about half a step down in bulletproof from a ford 300 I6. Running on 5w30 GTX HM, autopsy reveled no problems, sludge etc, totally destroyed rod bearing aside, never overevved, rarely revved for that matter. Made me a believer in heavy oils for cars I didn't personally maintain from day one.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top