Toyota 1GR-FE 4.0 V6 Oil - OK to use 0W-20?

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Originally Posted by Char Baby
Originally Posted by JerryBob
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Here is the only chart that I am aware of that shows vehicles that have been back spec'd for 5W20 & 0W20 motor oils. Although this chart doesn't show your particular vehicle to use of 0W20 it does show the use of 5W20. And other members(I will agree) that if you can use a 5W20, then you should be able to use a 0W20 as well.

http://www.positivespin.us/Toyota Oil Chart.JPG


If I'm reading this chart correctly, it says that 2012 Tacomas and beyond (unless they reverted back) can only use 0W20 only. My 2015 V6 clearly and explicitly calls for 5W30. The chart also says it shows "the application of Toyota Genuine Motor Oils" and is entitled "TGMO Application Chart".

I wouldn't rely on this chart. I'd rely on the manual.


I don't think that is what ths chart is saying as the chart stops at 2012. The charts colored dots show what oil is allowable. If there is no dot then that particular grade is not recommend. If there is a colored dot for 0W20 fornyour specifi vehicle & engine then if is allowable &/or has been back spec'd.


I think we're saying the same thing. For a 2012 Tacoma V-6, the chart indicates that 20W oil is the only one recommended. That is just not the case for that model and engine. I've owned more than 1 Tacoma and I know them pretty well.
 
The biggest risk w/ the 2005 engine is the driver's side head gasket, which tends to develop coolant leakage between cylinders 4 and 6. Oil choice will not likely impact this risk either positively or negatively, it's just a bad head gasket selection which was later corrected.

In terms of oil, going with thinner viscosity on this specific engine is an experiment...not much if any objective data available. Risk decisions are made based on expected benefit, so you should ask yourself what benefit you believe you'll realize from thinner oil.

The risks are fairly clear: it's an old engine with looser bearing clearances than factory new, so maintaining oil pressure may be a problem. The timing chains depend on pressure-fed oil to minimize pin & bushing wear at the links. Oil is sprayed on the main chain via a tube aimed just before chain meets crank sprocket, and the #2 chains get oil pushed through the tensioner pads. Low oil pressure = increased chain wear and an expensive repair.

If you believe there is enough benefit to offset the risks, then go for it and let us know how it works out. Personally, I would stick to 30W oils and use a 0W-30 in cold weather versus a 5W or 10W in warmer weather.
 
yep, 0/5/10/40 will all be golden..these engines are no frills solid Toyota, like my '95 3.4L 276k on 5/30 dino, don't add oil, don't use any...drove it to work this morning -6F
 
Originally Posted by CT8
The thinnest oil Why? Where did you get the thinnest possible idea?

One reason: cold winter starts at 9,000 ft altitude. Thinner oil helps reduce start-up wear, and can also help improve fuel economy by providing less resistance to the engine turning over, especially while the oil is still cold before operating temperature is reached. I said thinnest "possible" with the assumption that it's still thick enough to provide good protection in all operating conditions, prolonged mountain hill climbs, etc.

I wound up going with PP 5W-30. It seemed like a good all-around option and should be fine for this OCI at least. I rarely exceed 5,000 miles in a year so annual oil changes are usually the norm for me, which kind of eliminates the ability to have a "winter" and "summer" oil, unless I want to go back to changing every 6 months/3,000 miles. I may look into Mobile 1 0W-30 AFE at some point in the future, but for now I'm running the PP 5/30.

I'm also interested in maybe switching to Amsoil at some point. The PC pricing of $5.50/qt for their entry-level "OE" line isn't too much higher than PP or M1, and from what I've read, sounds like a superior oil formulation. Their XL and signature series are a bit more costly, but even at $8-10/qt, not terribly expensive for an annual OCI. The signature series is the only one with a 0W-30 weight, so maybe I'll spring for that someday and see what I think. The HTHSV of 3.07 and the VI of 173 sound like great numbers to me...
 
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