towing large loads--- has anyone used air shocks?

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: ls1mike
They do also make what is called an overload shock. It is a shock with a coil spring around it that will increase capacity.
Shocks alone will not do it.

The air bags are good, but you if you need them for extra weight vice stability or porposing, chances are you already at the limit of the what the truck should be doing.


This is rarely considered here. I have learned the hard way over many years that it is NEVER a good idea to operate anything at its maximum. I know we'll hear from dozens who have towed Mt. Everest home with a Yugo, but it is not safe or smart to do this without some careful thought.

My personal rule, is only do one risky thing at a time. Overloaded trailer? Don't speed, or drive tired.
For the odd short local trip, towing more than you technically should isn't a big deal, pick your route and drive carefully. But for a RV trailer that you will be dragging around for days at a time, having it tow easily is probably a good idea as you will be driving when you're not at your best at some point.

 

[supton]

I found it hard to find GCWR for my Tundra, and finally gave up: I assume it is curb (wet) + 300lb (driver+passenger) + max towing. For some reason Toyota won't spell it out. OP's Tundra predates Toyota's downgrade in max towing (prior ratings assumed single 150lb driver and whatever else); my rating dropped from 8300 to 7900 with the change. YMMV, depending upon how you want to view the change in standards. I believe it is SAE J2807 if you want to look at that can of worms.

 

[meep]

^^^yes^^^ toyota does not make it very clear. I have not really been able to find what the truck weighs itself, which is a bit of a problem when using gross weights on the stickers to figure out what I really have to work with.

all good advice here, and I'm in agreement. I don't get in a hurry. It *feels* like it's close to its limit, so I drive it that way. Most hwy work has been 55-60 (the tires are rated to 65) and when I see bad asphalt ahead I ease off and let it coast down if needed before I get to it.

To be clear--- the 2" improvement from WDH in the rear is not 2" over unloaded ride height, but rather 2" above where it'd sit without the springs. It probably drops 4" without the springs, comes back up 2" with them. these are just from estimates.

Privately I've figured that the 5100 lbs, is probably closer to 5800 when loaded, but I didn't want to sit here and exaggerate. You've seen folks online try to justify a F250 because they think their 19ft boat weighs 7000 lbs....

So trailer at 5800. me + passenger 330. 300 lbs firewood. 100lbs, clothes, food, extra chairs, tarps, canopy. that's 6430 gross for trailer & cargo.

that's 93%, by the old standard. and that starts to make sense. When I truly pulled it dry, with no gear in the truck, it still feels pretty spry. The extra 1k pounds is where it starts to load down.

I've paid attention to braking and handling, in fact just did a full rebuild on the drums last weekend. The electrics do NOT lock the trailer axles like the manual in the brake controller suggests they might. Also--- I discovered that in a near-panic-stop, the pedal kind of reaches a soft "wall" where once you reach that amount of pressure, extra force at the pedal doesn't really do much. Truck has upgraded 4-pot brakes up front. I'm debating added upgrades. For now... I'm just my normal careful... I'm pulling a small house... no need to be in a hurry.

Sticker on the hitch? It's oem... if there was one it's long since gone.

Setting the spring bars.... as shown at the rv dealer.... ball in and latched, lift the tongue/truck with the trailer jack, then pop the springs up. let it all down. YES--- friction sway controller. Have never had one before and I love what it does... good point it could be adding to the noise.

Destination LE2 tires are rated for ~2400 lbs each at 44psi. mine are usually at 36. they have been Great tires, with and without the load.

Just for kicks--- here are the AT temps.... um.... 160F. period. minimal fluctuation. reaches 160 (o/d off) and sits there +/- 4F or so. Until.... you experiment with letting o/d engage. did this and the T/C locked right in... nice, quieter in the cab... but slowly creeps to 190..... then it's like a t-stat opened, and things quickly dropped to 160. BUT what I figured is that... like we've all READ, o/d gearing does have the capability to generate more heat, harder on trans when towing. experiment done, it went back to o/d off.

so air springs may help... it also "is what it is..." likely approaching the limits of the vehicle.

My goal--- this is the vehicle I will have until the kids are done with college. If there are reasonable things I can do to it over time to keep things safe, I will. It's going to be pulling a trailer 6 times per year, some local, some max 300 miles.

 

[supton]

Looking around I find:
http://www.automotivearticles.com/123/toyota_tundra_2006_review.shtml
Double cab, RWD, V8, 6800 towing, 6600 GVWR, 4800 curb.

http://autos.yahoo.com/toyota-truck/tundra-4x4/2006/regular-cab/specifications.html
This one has around 4600 for standard cab 4x4.

Never understood why they can mark the door jamb with GVWR yet not give you a curb. I know, I know, options come into play--but geez, when I buy stuff at the store it's usually marked with its weight...

 

[ls1mike]

I am not trying to be a dbag, well not to you at least

.
Sorry if I sounded like one You are probably fine. I towed for years with an 89 GMC 1 ton, a lot heavier than you and most if not all current half tons are WAY better than that truck, although I would go out on a limb and say they are not as reliable per miles towed.

You just need to get your setup right. Shocks alone won't do it. Granted they may reduce or stop your proposing link mine did, but I think with a good hitch set up, good sway control and bags or helper shocks, your towing experience will be more comfortable and enjoyable. I rarely if ever go over 60 when towing. ST or trailer tires are only rated to 65 mph, heat kills those bad boys. I am going camping this weekend.
Just get out there and enjoy!

 

[Cujet]

Years ago, we would use classic style air shocks to help with excess loads. We drove a Ford E (heavy duty) van and towed a 6 car trailer. The air shocks were able to carry a bit more weight without trouble.

The problem was, they did not last long. And, we had to plumb them individually, as the van would lean excessively with an engine (or other weight) located on the right rear (for example)

The damping seemed to be insufficient with high air pressure, and excessive with zero pressure.

My overall impression of air shocks is negative.

 

[Stewart Fan]

Originally Posted By: ls1mike


You just need to get your setup right.


Spot on.

The OP needs to know what weights he is dealing with. A WAG isn't going to cut it.

He needs to locate a scale in his area so can find out exactly what the various weights are.

Front and rear axle weights of the truck. Actual weight of the truck. Tongue weight of the trailer. Actual weight of the trailer. I also like to know the axle weight of each axle on the trailer,so I know I don't have overloaded tires.

 

[Autodarken]

Interesting thread. The OP is guessing the trailer weight, and their is NO MENTION OF TONGUE WEIGHT??? I hope I missed it somewhere, but with the 6k trailer, he's probably got a 700-800lb tongue. With the WDH set up properly, there should not be much of an issue, but what does the rest of the truck payload add up to??? This seems to be where the issue appears to land.

Air bags are nice to have, but NOT TO REDUCE SAG WHEN WDH IS USED. And NEVER to solve a problem. The WDH is to reduce sag, NOT air bags. The bags, should you use them, should be aired up only to increase the spring rate to make towing more comfortable.

Unless you're towing without a WDH, or a 5th wheel, air bags are only a supplement to a proper towing set up.

 

[meep]

Thanks for all the advice earlier this year in this thread.

Just finished up a couple hundred mile pull with our camper. I added Firestone airbags instead of air shocks after going through all of this.

It didn't take much--- 18 psi worked out very well, keeping the spring bar settings suggested by the RV tow bar installer. Hwy cruise was more stable, more comfortable, and more controlled.

It certainly made for a more pleasant, more relaxed drive, and less porpoising, especially on bridge joints. Thinking through it, it also made hitching and de-hitching a little easier.

Thanks again!
Meep