Torque wrench for 150+ft-lb

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Went to check the lugnuts and my HF clicker goes to 150. Close enough. Except: dang! that is a lot of force. I am wondering if there is a "cheap" 200ft-lb rated clicker with say 2ft or better 3ft handle for this job--this HF one is only about 17" long.

I don't do a lot of vehicle work but it would be nice to pull wheels and rotate; but between buying a floor jack and now a torque wrench I'm not sure I'll ever recoup the cost vs paying for tire rotations. So I'm not looking for a high dollar unit, just one that will keep me from tightening to "ridiculous" levels.
 
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My Tundra. If it had alloys it would be 97, otherwise it is 154 for steelies.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Went to check the lugnuts and my HF clicker goes to 150. Close enough. Except: dang! that is a lot of force. I am wondering if there is a "cheap" 200ft-lb rated clicker with say 2ft or better 3ft handle for this job--this HF one is only about 17" long.

I don't do a lot of vehicle work but it would be nice to pull wheels and rotate; but between buying a floor jack and now a torque wrench I'm not sure I'll ever recoup the cost vs paying for tire rotations. So I'm not looking for a high dollar unit, just one that will keep me from tightening to "ridiculous" levels.


Most of us here like shadetree wrenching. If one did a full business analysis of all the tools we have we might be surprised. But we like tools and things that go putt-putt-putt down the street.
 
I think the HF 1/2" clicker goes up to 250.

Originally Posted By: david_ES2
What automotive lug nuts need to be tighten to 150ft lbs?



Crank Pulley Bolts, Axle Nuts, Lug Nuts on certain light trucks, Certain Control Arm Bolts...
 
I have a Michigan industrial tools torque wrench that goes up to 250lbs. It's at least 24 inches long so you can get a lot of leverage out of it. Look one up on ebay.
 
Lowes or HD, thanks.

Managed to hit 150 to cinch up the lugs today--that was a workout.
 
Using a simple cheater bar is not going to cause your lug nuts to explode.

Then again, a foot pound is a foot pound. If you know your body weight, all you have to do is calculate how far from the ratchet head you need to rest your weight. This is how I do my 340 ft-lb axle nuts. No need for a click-type torque wrench in this case.

Torque1288727958.jpg
 
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Besides, using the cheater bar on the torque wrench does NO harm as long as you are not exceeding the maximum limit of the wrench. It still measures and clicks it exactly as if you were not using the cheater pipe over the wrench. Let us not get in to physics of it on this forum!
 
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