Torque stuck WITH torque wrench??

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Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: Doog
On a FWD vehicle the newer tires should be on the rear.
On a RWD vehicle, too...


This topic has been beaten to death...

Put your new tires wherever you want... and IF something happens, don't blame someone else. END.


When people are recommending against using accepted and proven safety concepts, such as new tires on the rear, based on their "hunch" or bias, it should be pointed out. People can do what they want, but once they start recommending it and rationalizing it to others then it become a matter of public safety.
 
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Originally Posted By: EdwardC
Based on how I understand torque sticks to work, I don't think it would cause any issues with accuracy. It's essentially an extension.

The torque stick relies on the impact action of the impact wrench to limit the transmitted torque.


This is accurate.

It's immaterial that the torque stick was being used with a torque wrench. In this case, it just functions as an extension and doesn't ultimately affrct the final torque when the torque wrench clicks.
 
Ah, so my concerns are relieved.
A. They used the cross cross tightening sequence
B. They used a lower torque stick for pretightening
C. The final torque moved the nuts to final
Torque with the torque stick simply as an extension
D. The consensus seems to be that the stick could not induce an inaccuracy

Now I just hope that the torque wrench that they used was accurate.....it should be...after all it was stored on the floor along with all the others as they moved like rushed bees and it looked like it tightened about 200 lug nuts per day.
Umm. That didn't help to think about.
Say, would a wrench go to the loose side or tight side if greatly used (labored)??
 
Quote:
I just hope that the torque wrench that they used was accurate

Not a big deal. We aren't assembling Minuteman missiles here. The most important part of torquing the lugs is to get them even and close to the spec. In many cases the spec is quite broad.

Quote:
The tire shop I use uses a 70lb torque stick to run them on and then finishes with a hand held snap on Torque wrench once. Then they call another employee to hit them all again with the hand held wrench.
Bad boys. You need to see the nut move before the torque wrench clicks. You want the nut tightened enough but not too much. All they did was to confirm that no nut was loose, not how tight they actually were. If you have a torque wrench, loosen each nut, one at a time, with your ratchet or breaker bar then retorque to spec.

The worst technique I've seen was a local Les Schwab shop that hammered them up with the impact wrench, then put the torque wrench on and rapidly clicked it several times as fast as they could pump their arm. (I'm not calling just hammering up with an impact wrench a technique, more like lack of a technique.)
 
Originally Posted By: silverrat
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: Doog
On a FWD vehicle the newer tires should be on the rear.
On a RWD vehicle, too...


This topic has been beaten to death...

Put your new tires wherever you want... and IF something happens, don't blame someone else. END.


When people are recommending against using accepted and proven safety concepts, such as new tires on the rear, based on their "hunch" or bias, it should be pointed out. People can do what they want, but once they start recommending it and rationalizing it to others then it become a matter of public safety.


Agreed.

Allowing two tires to wear out because you are too lazy to rotate is not justification to put other people in danger. If you want to kill yourself there are easier ways that are safer for those around you.
 
If you don't trust the tire shop's torque wrench, get your own and loosen and re-torque the wheel. I have done that in the past but no longer do it any more.
 
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