looking for a good 3/8" torque wrench 20-150 InchLb

Yes the 5-45 is what I was referring to. That is a very low torque, roughly 3 then 7 ft lbs. Like mentioned above they are not trustworthy at the bottom of their range. Seems a 1/4" wrench is what you need with the adapter.
if torque wrenches are not trustworthy at the bottom of their range, does it also mean they're not trustworthy at the top of their range?

For several years now I've been using a CDI torque wrench that has a range of 10-100 FtLbs and I've been torquing my lugs at 85 FtLbs., is that too close to it's upper limit?
 
The upper limit is usually no problem, they say 20% for the low limit so on a 10-100 ft.lb tool it is 12 ft.lb. Some TW are spec with this already included meaning 10-100 is what it was actually calibrated for. Ask the manufacturer.
 
It's the low range of 20 inch pounds that makes the torque wrench difficult to find. Most of them start out at 40 inch pounds and go up to 240.
 
I'll always recommend whatever can be found on NorthernTool.
They had I believe Klutch torque wrenches that were decent.
 
You might also consider buying a digital torque gauge and using it on an existing socket wrench. They're relatively cheap. They're generally very accurate. They can cover the torque ranges of multiple legacy type wrenches. They're able to do metric and imperial without the user needing to do any calculations. The take up much less room in your tool cabinet than legacy wrenches. Here's an example:

51c71vT6yfL._AC_SY879_.webp
 
You might also consider buying a digital torque gauge and using it on an existing socket wrench. They're relatively cheap. They're generally very accurate. They can cover the torque ranges of multiple legacy type wrenches. They're able to do metric and imperial without the user needing to do any calculations. The take up much less room in your tool cabinet than legacy wrenches. Here's an example:

View attachment 318804
wow how interesting, I did not know something like this existed.
 
Yes I have one from the same brand, but mine is 5 FtLbs to 45 FtLbs.

I have the Suercup and a CDI TW and had both calibrated last year.
Any issues? I’m going to add that one for smaller jobs as the 3/8 is still of decent size and tough to get enough clearance on things like caliper bolts. I bought this 1/2” for a wheel bearing that my harbor freight junk didn’t have enough ft lbs. same thing, accurate compared to what the tire shop uses. They torqued my rims to 83 ft lbs and this one nudged a smidge and clicked at 84.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJ6YCM7G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
 
Any issues? I’m going to add that one for smaller jobs as the 3/8 is still of decent size and tough to get enough clearance on things like caliper bolts. I bought this 1/2” for a wheel bearing that my harbor freight junk didn’t have enough ft lbs. same thing, accurate compared to what the tire shop uses. They torqued my rims to 83 ft lbs and this one nudged a smidge and clicked at 84.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJ6YCM7G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3
The brand you linked here, Vanpo, it seems to be nearly identical to the Suercup brand I have. It's probably made in the same factory just have different labels. Mine is 5 FtLB to 45 Ft LB., I generally use it for low end torquing, such as my oil pan drain bolt (30 FtLb) and the oil filter (10 FtLb). It functions well, and I had it calibrated last year. All my wrenches and tools are 3/8", and I do brake work with them. So far the highest torque bolts I've had to torque are caliper bracket bolts, being 75 Ft Lbs.
 
For a valve cover, get a torque cube, not a dedicated wrench.

They use a strain gauge on a sense element inside and can be pretty accurate. And don't sweat ultimate precision-- few things are overblown in DiY circles more than torque spec.

TORQUE isn't a measure of clampload-- STRETCH is. And the correlation of torque to stretch is pretty imperfect (normally ±30%) even with all brand new hardware. Add some rust and years and the error can be double that.


The upshot: the "torque spec" is not that accurate to begin with, and was only ever accurate for brand new parts under the condition it was developed (dry, oiled, greased, whatever).


Heck, even taking the bolts slightly into yield isn't the worst thing around. You don't have any cyclic loading on valve cover bolts, so "gudenteit" practically as good as whatever torque wrench result you will achieve.

There are very few truly critical bolts on an engine: head bolts, rod and mains, flywheels, damper, cam gear, etc. The rest of the bolts generally aren't structural in a way you need to worry about.
 
I just ordered a 1/4” beam torque wrench to round out my collection. It’s made by neiko, who I know nothing about, but need something that will do transmission pan and valve covers for light torque. I usually do these things by feel but the price was cheap and I’ve got some pan drops to do, 3 to be exact. I always like the old school beam wrenches.
 
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