Toro Timemaster 30 lawnmower starting issue

[PNWJohn]

I found a great thread on this topic here that leads me to believe I have a failing ignition coil.

To order the part I need my model number.
From what B&S show online about where the model number it should be in one of three locations.
1 - On the front of the engine directly above the spark plug
2 - Stamped in the sheet metal directly above the muffler
3 - On the front of the engine between the OHV symbol and the air cleaner.

I am not seeing it. I wonder if I need to take something off to expose the number.

Unfortunately Briggs and Stratton do not have a support phone number of email.

Hopefully someone here can help.

Thanks

 

[NETWizz]

Well, you have a 4 stroke... We know that much, and clearly you have compression and timing.

This means it is a fuel delivery or spark issue.... or exhast issue (unlikely).

Action Plan:
Clean the exhaust spark arrester just because it is easy and rules out everything not fuel/spark.
Check the oil level. Sometimes a bad oil sensor can kill spark and they can be finicky, so just make sure the level is correct.
Next drain the float bowl in the carburetor to make sure there isn't any water in there!
You have fresh fuel right?
Check you are using the proper spark plug and it is gapped correctly.
Finally, get an in-line spark tester that will let the engine run while showing if you have spark.

When it starts running bad, immediately check the spark to see if you are losing spark. If you are losing spark, on a modern engine, the coil itself usually includes the ignition module, often referred to as the solid-state ignition module. Basically, it is NOT generally a separate CDI box... The old condenser is not needed and internal in the module, and it effectively has the transistorized switch that works kind of like points did on old systems. We can probably tell for sure if you share the diagram.

Anyway if you are loosing spark this is the thing to do. If not we need to next investigate fuel delivery.

 

[PNWJohn]

You will need a feeler gauge to set the air gap between the coil and flywheel.

Thanks - I have a YouTube for this repair, I saw it needs to be .010" or .25mm

 

[PNWJohn]

I wish I had better news. I installed the new ignition coil. It was an easy job. And yes, I provided the .010" gap.
I only got 15 minutes before I stopped.

I am now thinking carburetor. It took some effort to start it including a fast start spray. I will change the plug to a NGK plug while I am at it.

 

[Brian123]

I wish I had better news. I installed the new ignition coil. It was an easy job. And yes, I provided the .010" gap.
I only got 15 minutes before I stopped.

I am now thinking carburetor. It took some effort to start it including a fast start spray. I will change the plug to a NGK plug while I am at it.

Bad Gas Cap​

You may not have noticed your gas cap is built to allow it to vent. When air is unable to pass through the cap, a vacuum can form in your gas tank that prevents fuel from flowing out of the tank. This will surely cause your mower to die while mowing.

Remove your fuel cap and start your lawn mower, and allow it to run. If your mower no longer dies, this can be your problem. Be careful to not let any dirt or debris enter your fuel system when testing your mower without the fuel cap.

This is worth a shot!

 

[PNWJohn]

Interesting. My gas cap was leaking badly and I just replaced the gas tank and have a new cap.

I will give it a try, like you say it is worth a shot.

 

[Dutchy491]

Run it as usual and after it dies open the gas cap and listen for air being sucked in.
Did you buy an OEM cap or some cheap Amazon knockoff ?

 

[PNWJohn]

I bought the OEM gas tank and cap. I have learned Amazon has crap knockoff parts.

 

[ripcord]

I bought the OEM gas tank and cap. I have learned Amazon has crap knockoff parts.

OEM is a sneakily named company that sells mostly Chinesium parts.

Just kidding... I'm guessing you bought them from a dealer. I would still loosen the gas cap when it dies the next time to see if it's properly venting and the tank isn't vacuum locked.

 

[PNWJohn]

lol. Yes I get parts from the local dealer.
I will be trying again today and see if the gas cap is causing issues.

 

[PNWJohn]

Wednesday update.
I went to start the mower to test out the gas cap and potential venting issues.
It started immediately. Which is unusual this past couple of weeks have always required a starting fluid.
I went ahead and cut the back grass taking about 45 minutes. It ran great the entire time.
Then to the front grass. Needed to fill the tank before continuing. That is normal.
I got the front grass cut as well. About 30 minutes.

I am happy of course but I don't trust it

New carb will be here toward the end of the week. I will install it. I am certain my carb has some gunk after 9 years.

 

[PNWJohn]

https://video.nest.com/clip/1c9ceedd31ab456ca05dade8590c9efd.mp4

 

[mk378]

Did you replace the fuel line hose? They had some bad fuel line which swells up inside and restricts the flow. It looks perfect on the outside.

Disconnect the carb end as you remove the tank with line attached. Tip the tank back upright and gas should come through the line as a stream not a dribble.

 

[PNWJohn]

Tuesday update.
I replaced the carburetor this weekend. Also included the fuel line.
Just cut the grass - front and back.

Started up like a champ!
It ran straight for the entire job. Just over an hour.

I am convinced the stopping problem has been solved.

Thanks to those who helped and this forum is great.