Torn ball joint boots

[Kestas]

I just did a couple jobs where I needed to replace a pair of tie rod ends on one car, and a pair of ball joints on another car. The only reason they needed replacement was because the boots failed by flexure fatigue, exposing the healthy greased joint to the elements.

I was peeved that I had to spend good money and replace whole assemblies just because of the failed boots, which probably cost only a few dollars. Are there any manufacturers who sell just the boots?

 

[Eddie]

Yes, some manufactures sell boot kits which include the grease, clamps and instructions. I had to redo my Subaru boots on my Forester and the dealer had them for ~ $20 apiece. Still much work as I had to remove the half shaves to replace the boots. Don't waste $$ on split boots as they are short lived. Ed

 

[Trav]

Moogs new boots are junk they use a metal ring that is almost impossible to get on the joint without damaging either the boot or breaking the internal metal ring.

I took the measurements and got poly units from Energy. They have the universals and some custom sizes by make/model, search the site.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Energy-Suspension-Universal-Dust-Boots.asp

 

[Kestas]

That link shows parts that are close to what I have in mind. Does the bottom of the Energy boots seal well by stretch-fit alone? The original boots are held by a spring ring clamp.

Otherwise, thanks for the link.

 

[Trav]

Stretch fit alone, i don't know of any aftermarket that uses a Euro style (maybe Japanese?) external spring ring.
They do fit pretty snug though and hold grease well. I got them a little under size so they need to stretch a little go get them on.

Edit: If you come across any with the ring please post it, i am also interested. TIA

 

[JHZR2]

If they split, they got dirt in them. If they have dirt in them, they need to be fully evacuated of old grease. To do this means removal and a lot of work. If they are permanently sealed, without zerks, I just dont see how you will be able to flush new grease into the relevant parts.

And to do it right, Id think that you would need to remove the end.

I love the spirit of this - far less wasteful. But unless they are fitted with zerks, I dont see how you can properly clean and regrease completely.

 

[mahansm]

Mercedes Benz sells ball joint and tie rod end boots. I've replaced quite a number of ball joint boots, as there are six of them on the pre-rack and pinion cars. (inner and outer tie rod ends, both sides, and two on the drag link)

Honda sells tie rod end boots; I just replaced one on my '03 Pilot.
I actually replaced it twice, as I tore the first replacement trying to seat it.

If I catch the tear fairly early, I remove the old boot, scoop out as much grease as I can, replace it with a like amount, and install the new boot. Yes, I'm courting failure, but so far I've not had one go bad in the next 100K or so miles.

Boot replacement is much cheaper, as it's less than half the price of the tie rod end and the vehicle doesn't need realignment after the job.

 

[mechtech2]

Dirt and water can cause a very quick demise of any open joint.
For the work involved , and some extra money, it is often wise to replace the joint.

 

[Texan4Life]

If it has grease zerks just grease it more, and more often. and you will be good since it pushes out the contaminants.

If no grease zerk I would replace it, but I would run it longer until it is convenient to replace it or it starts to get slop in it. As a bonus most replacements have grease zerks.

 

[Trav]

+1. I don't know if you could flush the old grease out if there is no zerk. I don't think sealed units are a good candidate for new boots once dirt and water gets in there.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: Trav
+1. I don't know if you could flush the old grease out if there is no zerk. I don't think sealed units are a good candidate for new boots once dirt and water gets in there.

I have known people who drill a hole in the back of the part, screw in a zerk fitting, and pump in grease.

The other thing is that some 70s and 80s Japanese cars had a bolt on the back of the part that could be removed and a zerk fitting could be screwed in.

 

[JZiggy]

The energy suspension boots do a pretty good job. I have removed questionable factory boots in the past, scooped out the old grease and packed in some new, put on the ES boot and am still using them.

 

[Charlie1935]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: Trav
+1. I don't know if you could flush the old grease out if there is no zerk. I don't think sealed units are a good candidate for new boots once dirt and water gets in there.

I have known people who drill a hole in the back of the part, screw in a zerk fitting, and pump in grease.

The other thing is that some 70s and 80s Japanese cars had a bolt on the back of the part that could be removed and a zerk fitting could be screwed in.



Some GM cars had the removable plugs also in the late 60's I think it was.

 

[mechtech2]

I have carefully drilled the flat bottom [where a normal zerk should be] and installed grease fittings.
But modern non greaseable ones have proven they don't need it.
With a torn boot, it is an option that could work.

 

[Avelectro]

Mazda also sells just the ball joint boots, at least for the Mazda 6:

GJ6A34541A for the front lower control arm ball joint

GJ6A34551A for the rear lower control arm ball joint

The lower ball joints are not replaceable so if they're shot, Mazda will sell you the entire control arm assembly including new bushings, the ball joint and boot. There are two lower ball joints per side on my first-generation Mazda 6.

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAs...;modelYear=2007