Singers, 3 in one, WD-40, MMO, VSOT
Top 5 dino oils for gasoline engines ?
- Thread starter GoldenRod
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Ha, yea, I was just being funny. Of course I am using Havoline but only because so many UOAs with it have come back looking great in a wide variety of engines and applications.
I don't know if it is the moly or what but it sure has a strong additive pack. I think the moly in virgin Havoline 5w20 (which is what I use in my Honda Ridgeline) has something like 400 plus ppm. That is more than any other dino I know, and by a considerable margin. Redline synthetic has over 600! Redline is known to be an awesome protector of engines that are subjected to extreme conditions, almost like drag racers see. So that tells me that moly indeed is a good additive.
However, we all know that many very good oils have little or no moly at all - there are many ways to lubricate and every oil company has an idea as to which is best. For example, M1 5w20 only has around 30 or 40 ppm of moly but M1 is a great lubricant. So who knows. I only know that since dumping my factory fill and using Havoline, the engine just seems to respond and run better than it did. But really, I'm only using it over other good oils for one reason (but a good reason) - BITOG members rave about it. PS-I use LC20 too.
I don't know if it is the moly or what but it sure has a strong additive pack. I think the moly in virgin Havoline 5w20 (which is what I use in my Honda Ridgeline) has something like 400 plus ppm. That is more than any other dino I know, and by a considerable margin. Redline synthetic has over 600! Redline is known to be an awesome protector of engines that are subjected to extreme conditions, almost like drag racers see. So that tells me that moly indeed is a good additive.
However, we all know that many very good oils have little or no moly at all - there are many ways to lubricate and every oil company has an idea as to which is best. For example, M1 5w20 only has around 30 or 40 ppm of moly but M1 is a great lubricant. So who knows. I only know that since dumping my factory fill and using Havoline, the engine just seems to respond and run better than it did. But really, I'm only using it over other good oils for one reason (but a good reason) - BITOG members rave about it. PS-I use LC20 too.
I'm going to give a qualified answer and say which seem most worth the money and include hi-mi and blend oils.
In no particluar order, just ones that would get my money.
Motorcraft 15w-40 $2.08
Clean 5000/7500 $1.68
GTX Hi-Mi
Havoline Hi-Mi
Syntec Blend
In no particluar order, just ones that would get my money.
Motorcraft 15w-40 $2.08
Clean 5000/7500 $1.68
GTX Hi-Mi
Havoline Hi-Mi
Syntec Blend
I thought Syntec blend was pretty expensive.
Not at Target, I paid $.68c each for like 20 quarts.
Havoline
Exxon Superflo
Motorcraft
Castrol GTX
Pennzoil
In that order I believe.
Exxon Superflo
Motorcraft
Castrol GTX
Pennzoil
In that order I believe.
Pennzoil
Quaker State
Exxon
Citgo....no one mentions Citgo...Often the bargin oil around here where we have a Citgo Station every two blocks.
OR what ever else I can get for 59 cents a quart or less.
Have also used Castol...They all good, main thing is to change oil according to your driving style.I used the weight the book calls for.5-30 in the winter and 10-30 in the summer, which is a recommedned varation for summer.
Quaker State
Exxon
Citgo....no one mentions Citgo...Often the bargin oil around here where we have a Citgo Station every two blocks.
OR what ever else I can get for 59 cents a quart or less.
Have also used Castol...They all good, main thing is to change oil according to your driving style.I used the weight the book calls for.5-30 in the winter and 10-30 in the summer, which is a recommedned varation for summer.
I did a UOA on our bulk Citgo 10W30 after 500 miles on a rebuilt 3800 V6, and to my surprise, it didn't hold viscosity well it all. I forget the actual numbers, but it was more of a medium-thick 20 than a 30.
Interestingly, the wear metals were incredible, especially for a newly broken in engine. I've seen UOAs here that looked much worse on daily driven vehicles. Only thing that was somewhat high was silicon, which we concluded was probably residual crud from when the block was hot-tanked.
I wish I still had that UOA so I could have posted it before I lost/misplaced it.
Interestingly, the wear metals were incredible, especially for a newly broken in engine. I've seen UOAs here that looked much worse on daily driven vehicles. Only thing that was somewhat high was silicon, which we concluded was probably residual crud from when the block was hot-tanked.
I wish I still had that UOA so I could have posted it before I lost/misplaced it.
(brianfix) is LE worth the money? And does it perform well enough to justify cost? Thanks for your time.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Someone posted Citgo as having alot of group I after visiting their website.
1. Delo
2. Supreme/Havoline
3. Syntec Blend
4. GTX HM
5. Maxlife
2. Supreme/Havoline
3. Syntec Blend
4. GTX HM
5. Maxlife
You Guys are comming up with some very good oils. Interestingly, they are pretty much the same choices I would make. I bought a 5 quart jug of Chevron Supreme 10W-30 at Kragens the other day for $6.99. I thought that was a pretty good deal. Also picked up an AC Delco PF47. Poured it in Monday. The motor seams to really like it. Sounds very quiet.
TropArtic and Kendall are the oils I can't get in my area.
I can get Motorcraft at my local Autozone though. I might give that a try sometime.
TropArtic and Kendall are the oils I can't get in my area.
I can get Motorcraft at my local Autozone though. I might give that a try sometime.
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