Too much grease on caliper brake pin?

[flanso]

You don't write badly; in fact, better than many English speakers.

 

[Paco Pena]

Just dont put grease on the tip of the pin, just the sides. Too much grease can prevent the pin from going all the way in on some vehicles. Grease doesnt compress.

Paco

 

[Jetronic]

Kia rio

Yes my bad, should've looked closer. Though the spring clips were first (for hyundai) used on the tucson.

3256 fahrenheit is enough for the grease on the pins. If you go that high, all the rubber will be destroyed and you will need a caliper rebuild. The pads themselves can get significantly hotter though

 

[GSCJR]

You don't write badly; in fact, better than many English speakers.

Pictures are nice and clear too!

 

[Vil_Riker]

There is wisdom out there that says to not put grease on brake pins to prevent dust and grit from accumulating. I myself have never followed that advice.

 

[The Critic]

There is wisdom out there that says to not put grease on brake pins to prevent dust and grit from accumulating. I myself have never followed that advice.

On exposed ones, yes. On ones that are "sealed" in a bore w/rubber sleeve, this does not apply.

 

[Alexfp]

Yes my bad, should've looked closer. Though the spring clips were first (for hyundai) used on the tucson.

3256 fahrenheit is enough for the grease on the pins. If you go that high, all the rubber will be destroyed and you will need a caliper rebuild. The pads themselves can get significantly hotter though

Just to avoid errors, do you mean 3256 fahrenheit, or 356?

What temperature can the clamp reach, and the pins? I mean normal operating temperature.

 

[Jetronic]

normal operating temps are not much higher than ambient, easily the coolest part of the whole brake system.

I meant 356 degrees as you mentioned for the silicone greases. Fat fingers...

 

[JTK]

If the pin feels like you are pushing up against a hydraulic dampener or it springs itself back out of the caliper bore, you have too much grease on it. I like to go on the moderate/heavy side, but you have to kind of wiggle the pin all the way in to burp any air out of it if you do so. Eric O from the South Main Auto channel is a master at that.

Rust belt life is tough on pins no matter how clean and greased they started.

 

[Dave9]

I only use a light coat, but you'll be just fine the way you did the job. Your method is exactly the same as mine.

Depending on your climate, this job should be done regularly. I live in the midwestern USA, so I service my caliper pins twice per year - usually with each tire rotation. Takes literally 4-5 minutes per wheel: remove, clean, lubricate, install, torque, done.

Try using more grease. I usually use Raybestos DBL-2T, and do not have to do this job regularly. The grease lasts longer than the pad set, several years and dozens of thousands of miles, though I do pull the pins to inspect when doing a brake job. I've never had a pin seize after it has been sufficiently greased with silicone paste, about 2-3 pea sized quantity per pin.

One thing worth mentioning is if the vehicle didn't start out with silicone grease, then it should have the old petroleum or organic grease flushed out. I use a spray bottle of gasoline and a plastic bristled bottle brush for that, then blow out with compressed air. I suppose some people would use brake clean instead of the gasoline, but I'll always opt for the cheaper solvent if it gets the job done.

 

[eljefino]

If the pin feels like you are pushing up against a hydraulic dampener or it springs itself back out of the caliper bore, you have too much grease on it. I like to go on the moderate/heavy side, but you have to kind of wiggle the pin all the way in to burp any air out of it if you do so. Eric O from the South Main Auto channel is a master at that.

Rust belt life is tough on pins no matter how clean and greased they started.

Going to have to disagree, if I get grease around the middle of the shaft of my pin (not the deep-in part), AND I get the bouncy-bouncy feeling, that proves to me that I have a water-tight seal, which I want. Obviously I don't want to hydro-lock it at the deep end.

I pick my pin bores out with a hand-held drill bit, one of many possible ways to get them relatively clean again.

 

[930.engineering]

In my country (Spain) I only find silicone grease, and of dubious quality.

Try to find Ate Plastilube, Pagid Ceratec or Textar Ceratec.
.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Good reminder for me. I just ordered up a new set of boots from Rock Auto. A torn boot can admit water and cause corrosion to be deposited on the pin, not from the pin itself but from the caliper housing.