Tires or Brakes? Which to do first?

Joined
Nov 12, 2020
Messages
994
Location
Chicago, IL
Alrighty boys, the daily (08 Camry) is due for brakes all the way around and tires. The pads all the way around are at 4mm~ and the tires are at 3/32~ all the way around. The brakes are started to "squeak" when I drive. Assuming it's the pad wear sensor. I drove through all of winter with these tires, Had 0 issues. But, the steering wheel shakes like crazy (kind of like getting a free massage :ROFLMAO: ) when going above 65 MPH. So, I am assuming the tires are out of balance. Not sure if I should do the brakes and roll with the tires or do the tires and roll with the brakes for a bit? The car stops still. I can get brakes all the way around for $186 from Rockauto. Tires mounted and balanced for about $315~ from Belle tires (Ironman brand, Starfire, etc) with rebates, etc that ends in 4 days.
 
New tires for $300 installed and balanced? Can't really beat that. Looking at

Crossmax 215/60R16 95V XL CT-1 All-Season Tire​

 
Get the Starfire(made by Cooper) or the Ironman tires. In that order too. They have decent reviews. Never heard of Crossmax tires so buyer beware on those.

For brakes check out www.maxbrakes.com, should be around 200 all in. Someone on here recommended them recently as being good quality.
 
Get the Starfire(made by Cooper) or the Ironman tires. In that order too. They have decent reviews. Never heard of Crossmax tires so buyer beware on those.

For brakes check out www.maxbrakes.com, should be around 200 all in. Someone on here recommended them recently as being good quality.
Dang, $177 is cheap for all 4 pads and rotors. No shopping or tax
 
I'd do the tires first. I'd also cough up more dollars for a better tire. Cheap tires usually become miserable to drive on pretty quickly. You might pay twice as much for a set of Michelin Defenders, but they'll also remain in balance and will remain structurally intact for at least twice as many miles.
If you daily drive this thing you should at least be comfortable doing so.
 
I'd do the tires first. I'd also cough up more dollars for a better tire. Cheap tires usually become miserable to drive on pretty quickly. You might pay twice as much for a set of Michelin Defenders, but they'll also remain in balance and will remain structurally intact for at least twice as many miles.
If you daily drive this thing you should at least be comfortable doing so.
I mean, the tires I have on the car right now are 7-year-old Michelin Defenders. They are worn out (obviously) and have very minor cracks. One tire has a super slow leak. Obviously, the tires are super noisy. I don't think cheap new tires would be this noisy or bad. The car is more of my "beater" car. So, don't really want to spend $500~ on tires.
 
It may be a few years ago but my vette shop in Elgin got me this deal and supposedly lifetime warranty but there was some stuff on the Audi that I’m glad I involved him.They are just as good as the stop tech and EBC pads I replaced when I autocrossed at the autobahn I did get them to go to the floor.

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IMG_1098.jpeg
 
It may be a few years ago but my vette shop in Elgin got me this deal and supposedly lifetime warranty but there was some stuff on the Audi that I’m glad I involved him.They are just as good as the stop tech and EBC pads I replaced when I autocrossed at the autobahn I did get them to go to the floor.

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Dude, i live in elgin. I wonder if I can get commercial pricing for parts.
 
if you can afford 4 new tires, then it sounds like you could afford the brakes and two new front tires. That is what I would do. Then buy the last two tires when you can.
Some shops rightfully won't put the two new tires on the front. The tires with the best traction should go on the back. If you are on the brakes on a slick spot you want the best traction there to keep you straight.
 
Some shops rightfully won't put the two new tires on the front. The tires with the best traction should go on the back. If you are on the brakes on a slick spot you want the best traction there to keep you straight.

Agree, but if there is strong vibration in the front, I would replace those...can then rotate back to front if that is your purgative.
 
2019 BMW 540 (AWD) M-package 38k miles Liqui-Molly 5W-30 OEM Oil Filter (weekend car)
2017 Mercedes E-300 4-Matic Luxury Line 41k miles OEM Mercedes 5W-40 MANN Filter (Parents weekend car)
2013 Honda Accord EX 103k miles Valvoline 0W-20 Mobil One filter (dads car)
2011 Toyota Sienna XLE 91k Miles Valvoline 0W-20 OEM filter (moms car)
2008 Toyota Camry LE 148k miles SuperTech 5W-20 SuperTech oil filter (Daily).

Wait me, you own two cars including a 2019 BMW 540i and you can't afford
corresponding brakes and tires? Don't get me wrong, but I can't grasp it. :unsure:
.
 
I mean, the Chinese tires have a 50k mile warranty on them.
Good luck with getting them to honor anything.

I don't think cheap new tires would be this noisy or bad. The car is more of my "beater" car. So, don't really want to spend $500~ on tires.
That was my thought method too with my 2007 Sonata, bought some Milestar tires for it me I can’t express enough how terrible they were. Here’s the link to that post: Link

The Kumho LX Platinums are $71 now
Link
 
If you repair the brakes but have worn out tires, when you brake hard you will have inadequate traction.

If you change the tires but have worn out brakes, you just won't be able to stop.

Dilemmas like this are what credit cards are for.
I can pay for both tires and brakes. Just don't feel like spending $500~ on a 2500 car 😂
 
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