Timing Belt saga Part 2

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Well folks Id like to thank everyone for their help and advice, water pump changed no leaks, timing belt is on car runs good.
Something new and strange has happened. My oil pump is driven by the timing belt. After the timing belt change the oil pressure is really good and strong. Before the timing belt it was on the low side.
The sending unit for the oil pump had its contacts for the electrical waire that leads to the oil pressure gauge cleaned because it was green with oxidation. Now my question is, why the change? less reistance in the contacts in the sending unit, or the T-belt job?
 
My vote is resistance in the contacts produced a low pressure reading.

Did you slather some di-electric grease on these contacts before hooking them back together? That will help keep further corrosion at bay.
 
It is a Mitsubishi 2.0 DOHC interference engine that revs really high, no torque but once the RPM goes above 4.5k rmp its starts HAULING ***.
Took me a week to fix it. The timing belt runs the oil pump which also has a timing mark and something called balance shaft!!! I guess Mitsubishi doesnt belive in harmonic balancers. I also did water pump pulleys, hydraulic belt tensioner and a bunch of other minor stuff.
 
I have a 94 Toyota Camry I4 DOHC with the 5S-FE engine and was surprised to see that the oil pump is driven by the timing belt.

[ December 27, 2005, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: noodlerooney ]
 
quote:

timing belt runs the oil pump which also has a timing mark and something called balance shaft!!! I guess Mitsubishi doesnt belive in harmonic balancers.

Mitsubishi developed and patented the balance shaft idea to drastically reduce vibrations in a 4 cylinder engine. Now that the patent has run out other companies have copied the idea. I believe GM's Ecotec engine has a balance shaft.

Now that most cars do not have distributors, a lot of cars run the oil pump off of the timing belt.
 
So most old pushrod engines had their pump run by distributor shaft? What about the ford 4.6 how does that pump work?
Find out something interesting on this board every day!
Come to think of it it kinda makes alot of sence now! If the belt goes the engine goes, if the pump goes the engine goes.
 
Thought so...

Yea, that t-belts a bummer. I have the same engine in my 98 Neon (Plymouth Expresso).
...and you're right, when it hits 4500 rpm its like kicking in an afterburner.
178,000 kms and going strong.
 
Well here another problem the person I bought it from wasnt the sharpest tool in the shed. So I have to remove longtube headers from the car and 3 inch cat back exaust system.
The 3 inch exaust system doesnt belong on my car!!
Turbo maybe mine is N/A exaust system that wide KILLS my torque. And the solid 2 peice long tube headers SHAKE so bad that I get a rattling noise whenver I accelerate, there are exaust leaks everywhere, and thaks to those leaks its making popping noises like crazy.
Once again I like to stat that the car was bought like this, I would never would do something like that.
Stock exaust manifold + Flexpipe around 250 bucks.
Now I have to figure out how Im gonna work on the exaust system without a lift....

Oh yeah I think some of the dodges came with the 2.4 liter version. I love it when bone stock Neons stomp on "sports compacts".
 
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