'97 Honda EX 2 dr - Timing Belt, Water Pump

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I have a '97 Civic 2 dr; SOHC VTech (sp?)... D Series engine. The car has 62,000 miles and has been off the road the last 3 yrs. I just changed the fuel (lifted the fuel pump, siphoned the fuel out, put AKI 94 fuel with stabilizer in).

The car had a new timing belt + new wtr pump some 13 years ago at 38,000 miles.

I'd be 'real appreciative if folks could comment on:

i) based on 13 yrs' time, probably t belt ought to be changed? I note that the ambient temps here in Vancouver are pretty moderate and ground level ozone is not too bad (re the rubber perishing). As regards miles on the belt - 24,000 miles, it's certainly low, but... Do I need to do the belt in a dire way??? I'd put it off another year if I could;

ii) do water pump at the same time? I'd be inclined NOT to if the feel of the pump is good... Comments? and

iii) does anyone know if the D series engines have block (coolant) drains (pipe plugs or valves)?

Thank you to any and all who are able to comment.
 
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did a '93 sohc d16z6 wayy back. The belt & coolant pump is a 90k(miles) interval job.
The coolant drains decently enough from the lower radiator hose. Just drain enough, not all. The pump hole is pretty high in the block.
And there's Honda's air bleed fitting on the thermostat side of the cylinder head. Love those things.
The only oddity with old Honda Civics is the fuel pump relay, on hot days, 100-ish, the solder joints actually disconnect the relay function.
Seen it happen, 100+ on the concrete driveway, crank, crank, no fuel. Happens on fuel stops too during the heat. : )
EricTheCarGuy did a great YT video on it, the relay is along the steering column, underneath of course.

The other thing is the crankshaft bolt, it can be difficult to loosen. There's a Honda specific tool, there's a specific weighted socket as well.
This one time, I pulled the oil pan & used a wood splitting wedge to lock a crank counterweight against the block to crack one loose....
I lacked the special fixture AND the special weighted socket AND any air tools / compressor. Big Fun. And a re-sealed oil pan.
Check that crank bolt first, if it's not a struggle, perfect! You need to remove it to remove the shroud around the lower timing sprocket.
 
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Me, I'd run it. Changed many Honda belts and getting less worried all the time. The pump and tensioner should be good
but when you change the belt down the road some then I'd change them at that point. I'd drive the car and feel it out and see if
everything else is working good and not worry about the belt for now. Accumulate some parts over the next year and then do it and get yourself on a good maintenance schedule. Great car you have there.
 
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Do it all
Yes I went through this when I bought a used Lexus, mileage interval 90k but time interval 10 years. Car 10 years old. Long debate on forum, people saying they think it can go double, but there's no proof, just conjecture. Meaning if a mfg says 90k, it wouldn't break at 90,001, that's too close. Then I said how much is the job, and how much do I save by pushing it 10, 20, 30, 40, 50k. Vs. what if it did break. So I too would just do it, not a whole lot is gained by pushing it further....I will say this much, I got the parts returned to me, and as suspected, the old timing belt looked brand new.
 
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I've done probably 20 timing belt changes, either for my cars or for others. In that time I've not seen any belts that appeared to be worn or on near the breaking point but I have seen some tensioner or idler pulleys that have gravely or wobbly bearings. So for me those are the things I worry about. And when the water pump is driven by the timing belt I've always replaced them, the incremental cost is minimal when you get it with the kit. A good "feeling" water pump is not necessarily indicative of future performance, I once had one on my BMW feel just fine and then only a couple of months later start making noise from failing bearings.

Having said that, I would not change out a belt and water pump that had only 38,000 miles on them if I knew they were quality parts that were installed. Unsolicited advice, but I like Aisin pumps, Mitsuboshi timing belts and Koyo bearings - even for Hondas.
 
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I have a '97 Civic 2 dr; SOHC VTech (sp?)... D Series engine. The car has 62,000 miles and has been off the road the last 3 yrs. I just changed the fuel (lifted the fuel pump, siphoned the fuel out, put AKI 94 fuel with stabilizer in).

The car had a new timing belt + new wtr pump some 13 years ago at 38,000 miles.

I'd be 'real appreciative if folks could comment on:

i) based on 13 yrs' time, probably t belt ought to be changed? I note that the ambient temps here in Vancouver are pretty moderate and ground level ozone is not too bad (re the rubber perishing). As regards miles on the belt - 24,000 miles, it's certainly low, but... Do I need to do the belt in a dire way??? I'd put it off another year if I could;

ii) do water pump at the same time? I'd be inclined NOT to if the feel of the pump is good... Comments? and

iii) does anyone know if the D series engines have block (coolant) drains (pipe plugs or valves)?

Thank you to any and all who are able to comment.
I do have the same generation as your car, I have a 96 Civic, D-series. So here's what I've experienced..

1- The rule is.. it's either time or mileage for the belt, 7 years or 90-100k miles. The Honda belt has upgraded over the years to last a little longer, so you might see a lower time/mileage in your owner's manual under maintenance.

2- Yes you do the water pump at the same time and the tensioner, because it's all in there under the timing belt. You only want to do this job once, saves $$$ on Labor if you're paying someone. saves time if you're doing it yourself.

3- Yes the D-series does have a drain on the block but I've never used it, less work and less chance that drain on the block begins to leak after you remove it! I've found really no difference, so just drain it from the radiator and fill up again. Why make something more complicated? That was my take.

I agree with using the brands mentioned but with this I just went with the Honda parts, didn't care to "guess" if those aftermarket parts would be ok.. not with something that if that belt breaks the valves WILL crash into the pistons.. no thanks. But hey that's me.. I only do the job every 7 years so spending a little more was worth the peace in my mind.
 

Cdn17Sport6MT

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Thx, Researcher, for your comments. I especially agree re the block drain, and leakage.

The belt, water pump, and the new camshaft seal would have all been Honda parts, btw. These days, what with my car being 25 years old, I don't imagine the Honda dealer actually does work on that old a car anymore. I don't discount the notion of other repairers or diy'ers buying official Honda parts... but in general I don't expect there is much "stock movement" in old Honda parts like this, so I 'hafta wonder if any of their parts age-out???

I may be wrong, but I think I might see if I can do a nominal visual inspection of the belt (upper timing cover) - and try to go one more year (I don't drive many miles). I may be chancing it... and it may also be the slackside tensioner that is the prb, not the belt...

Maybe I'll chicken-out at the six month mark...
 
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Just replace the timing belt. I have changed 5 timing belts and NEVER the water pump and guess what? OEM pump was still working fine into 200k+ range.

Interestingly this advice was given by my Subaru indy and did Honda/Acura and Subie belts.
 
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Thx, Researcher, for your comments. I especially agree re the block drain, and leakage.

The belt, water pump, and the new camshaft seal would have all been Honda parts, btw. These days, what with my car being 25 years old, I don't imagine the Honda dealer actually does work on that old a car anymore. I don't discount the notion of other repairers or diy'ers buying official Honda parts... but in general I don't expect there is much "stock movement" in old Honda parts like this, so I 'hafta wonder if any of their parts age-out???

I may be wrong, but I think I might see if I can do a nominal visual inspection of the belt (upper timing cover) - and try to go one more year (I don't drive many miles). I may be chancing it... and it may also be the slackside tensioner that is the prb, not the belt...

Maybe I'll chicken-out at the six month mark...

hey you're welcome.. and about parts being old, sitting on a shelf, when I bought mine (belt, water pump, tensioner etc..) from Honda last year they were manufactured within the year. Yeah called me surprised but they were recent, very cool. I think the only one that probably ages out is the rubber timing belt.. Most of the rubber parts I've gotten were not that old, the only one was a discontinued part a dealer had on their shelf. And that was just part of the pcv system.. Next time I'll just use regular gates bulk hose...

And yes you're right there are a lot of Honda dealers that are snobs and act like it's a crime to work on an older Honda.. hilarious, since wasn't the whole point of a Honda was it would last a long time? I did find a Honda dealer to do work on my 96 Civic that I wasn't able to do myself and they actually enjoy keeping an older car on the road! Imagine that! Yes I know I'm lucky to have found a set of decent technicians who are honest!

You can look at a belt that is old and it looks as good (usually) as a new one. Not trying to scare you but my master tech told me that he had seen ones that look brand new and poof they just break. Could you get another 6 months or a year out of it, probably, playing the odds. I wonder if they engineer in a bit of room on the replacement interval siding on the conservative side of the interval. But who knows, you're right maybe you'll give in at the 6 month mark.. 😎
 
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I have a '97 Civic 2 dr; SOHC VTech (sp?)... D Series engine. The car has 62,000 miles and has been off the road the last 3 yrs. I just changed the fuel (lifted the fuel pump, siphoned the fuel out, put AKI 94 fuel with stabilizer in).

The car had a new timing belt + new wtr pump some 13 years ago at 38,000 miles.

I'd be 'real appreciative if folks could comment on:

i) based on 13 yrs' time, probably t belt ought to be changed? I note that the ambient temps here in Vancouver are pretty moderate and ground level ozone is not too bad (re the rubber perishing). As regards miles on the belt - 24,000 miles, it's certainly low, but... Do I need to do the belt in a dire way??? I'd put it off another year if I could;

ii) do water pump at the same time? I'd be inclined NOT to if the feel of the pump is good... Comments? and

iii) does anyone know if the D series engines have block (coolant) drains (pipe plugs or valves)?

Thank you to any and all who are able to comment.
For what its worth, 2 local Honda dealers told me they go by miles, not time. But a '97 would make me paranoid. I'd gather all parts, knowledge, etc. and just do it. My belt and other parts looked new at 14 years but the hydraulic tensioner was leaking oil. That is the weak spot in the timing system as reported by others on this forum, too. Don't know if yours uses a hydraulic tensioner but that is what could lead to TB damage and failure, IMO
 
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You might as well do the water pump with the TB. Get the Aisin kit which includes all the parts you need :)

There might be a coolant drain on the engine, but you might not be able to actually use it because it could freeze with all the rust. All you have to do is drain from the radiator, refill with good coolant, and use the Lisle coolant funnel to bleed the air out.

The best coolants to use for your Civic are Recochem OEM Blue, Zerex Asian Blue, or Pentofrost A3
 

JC1

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I've got a 97 civic hatchback. Wife's car, we are the original owners. I first changed the TB and water pump and timing belt myself back in 2010. I removed the upper cover to inspect it before I changed it.

I would do that and see the condition. I know people say don't count on the condition. Blah blah blah. Fear is a great motivator in the service dept of any stealership. I'm sure a Honda dealer would do the job without issues. The techs would love it more.

Can you do it yourself? Took me 2 days to do it, first TB job I've ever done and I didn't have some special tools and wrenches back then.

The belt probably needs changing in the next few years, I haven't Inspected it recently.

You can probably push it another year or two IMO.
 

Cdn17Sport6MT

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...
The other thing is the crankshaft bolt, it can be difficult to loosen. There's a Honda specific tool, there's a specific weighted socket as well.
...
I lacked the special fixture AND the special weighted socket AND any air tools / compressor. Big Fun. And a re-sealed oil pan.
Check that crank bolt first, if it's not a struggle, perfect! You need to remove it to remove the shroud around the lower timing sprocket.
Does anyone know if the Honda tool (saw it in the EricTheCarGuy video on the D series timing belt change - excellent, btw) AND the "weighted socket" are BOTH needed? Seems Eric used a large electrically powered impact gun alone... ???
Also, does anyone know if, when going the impact gun route, whether there ever'd be an issue with OD of the 6 point impact socket interfering with the crank pulley bore?

Re the weighted socket, would not a regular impact quality socket, alone, work, with a "skookum" impact driver?
 
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Cdn17Sport6MT

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I've got a 97 civic hatchback. Wife's car, we are the original owners. I first changed the TB and water pump and timing belt myself back in 2010. I removed the upper cover to inspect it before I changed it.

I would do that and see the condition. I know people say don't count on the condition. Blah blah blah. Fear is a great motivator in the service dept of any stealership. I'm sure a Honda dealer would do the job without issues. The techs would love it more.

Can you do it yourself? Took me 2 days to do it, first TB job I've ever done and I didn't have some special tools and wrenches back then.

The belt probably needs changing in the next few years, I haven't Inspected it recently.

You can probably push it another year or two IMO.
Yeah, I've done two TB jobs in past... I can't say I've EVER seen the inside of a dealer's- or Independent's shop in 47 years of driving, hehe, so DIY is where it's at for this cowboy ..
 
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People say it's the factory thread locker that makes that crank bolt removal a '10' in difficulty.
So I'd try some heat, propane, MAPP gas, etc. Even Red Loctite requires heat for ease of removal.
 
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Engine rotation is CCW, but seems to me crank bolt is rh thread, correct?

I shouldn't be lazy....I have the 2186 p. FSM...
CCW at the pulley or damper end? Most all engines rotate the opposite from that, and the bolt for them is most always a RH thread.
It would be advantageous for them to keep that for a CCW rotation.
 
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