Timing Belt Honda B-Series

Messages
11,247
Location
PA
Yeah, I have to do the timing belt this summer. I never had to do a belt before, but I did the valve adjustment on it last year. It's a 1998 CRV 2.0, w/150k, belt was "just done" when we got it w/85k. Looking for good refernce material and tips now. I'll source out parts and do it in a month or two. One thing I'm thinking about is just doing the belt, leaving the pump and tensioner in-place. What do you guys have to say?
 

hal

Messages
393
Location
NC
Did you do the water pump/tensioner at 85k? If so, you don't really need to do it yet. You can do those every other time you do the belt. If they have never been done, do them now because it's a pain in the [censored] to replace a water pump without changing the belt also. It's fairly easy to change a timing belt on a Honda. Just be sure and mark the cam and crank positions before you take it off, and start installing the belt at the longest span of the belt first and go from there.
 
Messages
14
Location
TN, USA
 Originally Posted By: AcuraTech
Study up on how to remove the crank pulley bolt. That's the thing that trips up most of the Honda TB "rookies".
+1. Finally had to borrow a 1200 lbft impact wrench from work to break the thing free.
 
Messages
4
Location
Athens, AL
 Originally Posted By: AcuraTech
Study up on how to remove the crank pulley bolt. That's the thing that trips up most of the Honda TB "rookies".
+2 I just did mine on my 93 Integra a couple months ago and it took me quite a while to break the crank bolt. If it was done at a shop last time, they probably ran it on there pretty good. I was able to break mine with my 600 ft-lb IR impact gun but it took a while. And that was after I had bent a 4 ft breaker bar. I'm not trying to scare you off, just make sure you've got access to a heavy duty (not chinese) impact before you dig in. As for reference materials, I used that Hayne's manual that covers CR-V, civic and third gen integras. It doesn't cover everything perfectly but is a very good reference. I would change the tensioner and pump if they were not done the last time. For me, it was worth the extra bucks to know that I should not have to tear into it again for 100K because my time is very dear. Do you have the DOHC engine? How hard was the valve adjustment? Any special tools needed? I need to do this soon.
 
Messages
1,389
Location
Nebraska
I made a tool to allow removal of the crank bolt when I changed the TB on my '89 CRX DX. The pulley had eight holes situated around it. I drilled two holes in a 24" piece of 1" square tubing to bolt the tube across the pulley. This acted as a stop that kept the pulley from turning while I laid into the crank bolt. Likewise, on the tightening. It worked fabulously. The bolts should be strong bolts since they will have to be somewhat thin to fit through the smallish holes. I used 1/2" drive air-tool sockets and enough extensions to bring it out where I could stand on the 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar.
 
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Messages
397
Location
Tampa, Florida
On my 2001 Lexus ES300, I put a six point socket and 1/2" breaker bar on the crank bolt. It was positioned so the breaker bar was up against the suspension arm. Then I momentarily engaged the starter which loosened the bolt. Maybe you can use the same procedure on your Honda.
 
Messages
4
Location
Athens, AL
I guess I forgot to mention that I used the crank pulley tool in conjunction with the impact. I borrowed one from a friend but the tools are available online for ~$25. Well worth the investment if you're not as handy as Mr. Incredible. Or, like me, don't have a shop to work in anymore.
 
Messages
16,145
Location
Silicon Valley
 Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
It's a 1998 CRV 2.0, w/150k, belt was "just done" when we got it w/85k.
Wait till 180k. B series timing belt, due to the length, last 90k miles. If you look to bring it to a shop with your own parts, the labor is about $200 in the SF bay area, probably $150-170 in the rural. The water pump should be done at the same time, most people agree that it won't last 2 timing belt cycle before it leaks. The tool you need if you were to do it yourself is a crank pulley holder tool. It is a breaker bar with a 26mm nut welded to the end, so it hold the crank pulley when you loosen the crank pulley bolt. Tightening and loosening this bolt is a major pita. Don't forget that the engine turn the opposite direction compare to the rest of the world, so having a wrench touching the ground and start cranking the engine will only tighten the pulley bolt, not loosening it.
 
Messages
2,698
Location
Silicon Valley
 Originally Posted By: PandaBear
B series timing belt, due to the length, last 90k miles.
Due to the length? I'm calling shenanigans! I bought the Helm's factory service manual for my CL in anticipation of the TB change. They make it look quite easy by the description, but I don't think it will be because of the tight clearances and things in the way. Might be much easier on the CRV. I'd base my decision on what to replace on what is there now. If recent OEM pump and tensioner (and idle pulley?), leave in place. Otherwise, replace all with OEM Honda stuff.
 
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Messages
1,335
Location
Arizona
Go to thetoolwarehouse.net Part # SP 60100A Harmonic Damper Holder for Honda/Acura. I have used these on both hondas and acuras and they work very well. The cost is 44.50. You dont need an impact gun. You just need to call Barry Bonds for some supplements and have one [censored] of a breaker bar! Have fun.
 
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Messages
167
Location
Northwest Indiana, USA
 Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Go to thetoolwarehouse.net Part # SP 60100A Harmonic Damper Holder for Honda/Acura. I have used these on both hondas and acuras and they work very well. The cost is 44.50. You dont need an impact gun. You just need to call Barry Bonds for some supplements and have one [censored] of a breaker bar! Have fun.
You can also make a usable tool from cheap hardware store plumbing parts. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/cranktool/index.html
 
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