Time for a new Generator... Wisdom desired!

[meep]

while this is sage advice, there are plenty of "stories" (ie, the occasional internet post) of eu2000i models with thousands of hours with nothing but oil, plugs, and gas. That said, last time I checked lash on a honda engine (it was a GCV), there was a bunch of valve lash dialed in - plenty of room to recede, from the get-go. Engine may have had 150 hours on it. Any thoughts on if certain brands are more prone than others? IIRC the honda gens use the upper-line engine, GX-series. ?

-m

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by webfors
I reread your posts now that I'm at home and I think I understand now. If you don't perform the regular maintenance, including the valve clearance check/adjust, there is an inevitable outcome. Correct?


All engines with manually (non-hydraulic) adjusted valves can succumb to this issue if clearances close up.

My wife ran a grooming van off 2 honda 2K's managing the loads while we sourced a new Onan 7000.

The load was 50-100% for approximately 4 hours a day lower for the other half the day - for about 30 days.

In under 1 month, one of the units valves moved so far it burnt - this is in between inspections.

This is the same exact genset people claim zliiions of hour on with no problems, I imagine they will last longer if they burble at idle forever -
-but with any kind of high load scenario combined with long runs will require maintenance.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by meep
while this is sage advice, there are plenty of "stories" (ie, the occasional internet post) of eu2000i models with thousands of hours with nothing but oil, plugs, and gas. That said, last time I checked lash on a honda engine (it was a GCV), there was a bunch of valve lash dialed in - plenty of room to recede, from the get-go. Engine may have had 150 hours on it. Any thoughts on if certain brands are more prone than others? IIRC the honda gens use the upper-line engine, GX-series. ?

-m


The lash inspection time is your best guide as to how "hard" the metals in the valvetrain assembly and cylinder head really are.

Lawnmower type engines tend to lean toward the 50-hour range, but certainly aren't alone in that hour zone.

One can play Russian roulette for a long time but ultimately this inspection guide timeframe exists for a reason and is not in the manual based on folly.


UD

 

[webfors]

Just ordered the tools needed. I'll be performing this inspection/adjustment regularly going forward, at minimum following the manual maintenance intervals. I suspect once I've done it a few times it'll be a quick task.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by webfors
Just ordered the tools needed. I'll be performing this inspection/adjustment regularly going forward, at minimum following the manual maintenance intervals. I suspect once I've done it a few times it'll be a quick task.


Sometimes it's easy, sometimes a real PIA.

You may have to wait for the unit to cool fully, you may be able to adjust hot

Happy generating!

UD

 

[henni]

Originally Posted by UncleDave
Not at the same time you don't.

Wanna rewrite that so the uninitiated don't get delusions of grandeur?

Too often people think cruise ship - when they should be thinking life raft - especially at 5KW.

UD


Yes, WE DO run all systems simultaneously - AT THE SAME TIME - on a single Honda EM7000isa inverter.

All our systems, pumps, motors, compressors are inverters and 240v systems.

Have discussed the setup(s) on bitog previously during extended hurricane outages.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by henni
Originally Posted by UncleDave
Not at the same time you don't.

Wanna rewrite that so the uninitiated don't get delusions of grandeur?

Too often people think cruise ship - when they should be thinking life raft - especially at 5KW.

UD


Yes, WE DO run all systems simultaneously - AT THE SAME TIME - on a single Honda EM7000isa inverter.

All our systems, pumps, motors, compressors are inverters and 240v systems.

Have discussed the setup(s) on bitog previously during extended hurricane outages.


I'm sure you have a load chart handy to show us what it all adds up to - somewhere in that link - please send.

the devil is in the details -

Ill back my claim down if you can show us a load chart grounded in fact.

My prime power rated at 8KW 24/7 and a 10K rating for 20 hours diesel - wouldn't do what you claim at face value your 7K gas unit can do.

UD

 

[UncleDave]

Heres your quote Henni -



Just a 2nd Note..

We run Five (5) Air Conditioners, Three (3) Refrigerators, Two (2) Pumps (Pool, Well), Water Heater (via 3-way swich from 4500Watts to 1125Watts), Cooktop(s), TV's, lights, etc

..all on a single Honda 5kW inverter..

 

[henni]

UD,

All DC motors spin up using up around 100w power and when all systems are running, I still use below 3kw in total so using the rated power (excluding the surge capability of the Honda), there is still room for 2kW of "extra".

This was discussed last year when Irma knocked off the entire state and the advantage of having all your motors,pumps,compressors as DC systems vs. AC systems.

Obviously I do not run multiple induction burners or oven during outages and similarly we would conserve hot water use despite the ability to use the water heater in 120v mode upon demand. Simple toggle switch changes the 4500w elements to 1125w.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by henni
UD,

All DC motors spin up using up around 100w power and when all systems are running, I still use below 3kw in total so using the rated power (excluding the surge capability of the Honda), there is still room for 2kW of "extra".

This was discussed last year when Irma knocked off the entire state and the advantage of having all your motors,pumps,compressors as DC systems vs. AC systems.

Obviously I do not run multiple induction burners or oven during outages and similarly we would conserve hot water use despite the ability to use the water heater in 120v mode upon demand. Simple toggle switch changes the 4500w elements to 1125w.


What are the locked rotor amps ratings of the 5 air conditioners? what brand and how many BTU's ?
What brand well pump uses 100W? Is this a dankoff?
which fridge brands?
Whose pool pump?

sounds awesome - Im curious to know more - or happy to reread what you've already written but I cant find it.


UD

 

[webfors]

Now that I have two generators, of similar spec, I'm considering converting one of them to natrual gas and getting a gas line put in. That way I have one generator for gas and another that can run indefinitely on natural gas.

Thoughts?

 

[henni]

Inverter driven DC motors don't draw higher amperage when the rotor is locked.

Each heatpump system is 12000 BTU (Five in total) and with ALL compressors and blower motors in total pull 17-18A. On a hot day (+30 C) each uses about 370 to 380w of power at highest speed mode but of course variable compressor speeds are infinite.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by henni
Inverter driven DC motors don't draw higher amperage when the rotor is locked.

Each heatpump system is 12000 BTU (Five in total) and with ALL compressors and blower motors in total pull 17-18A. On a hot day (+30 C) each uses about 370 to 380w of power at highest speed mode but of course variable compressor speeds are infinite.


What are the brands and models of DC heat pumps?

I've looked at the DC mini split and they aren't that good.

always good to learn about new super low draw appliances

UD

 

[cronk]

The Champion inverters have earned a great reputation in the rv community.
Rver's demand quietness and reliability, and the Champion units deliver.
I own one of the 2000w cubes and it has performed flawlessly.
I bought a larger travel trailer with ac and will be looking to upgrade in the spring to one of the 3100 or 3400 Champion inverters, or possibly add a second 2000w Champion with a parallel kit.

The Champion "hybrid" inverter generator gives you inverter generator technology but in an open frame design. So the trade off is a bit more noise, but a lower price. Still quieter than a standard open frame generator.

 

[UncleDave]

Henni - you there?

Love to know what brand and models so I can look into them, myself.


UD

 

[Jeromines]

Originally Posted by webfors
Howdy all,

we had a multi day outage in Ottawa this past weekend due to tornado winds that took out a good chunk of power infrastructure. I currently have a Champion generator that worked well through the whole outage. I've wired it into our main fuse panel via a transfer switch for 6 main circuits. It's a great budget setup.

I'm considering getting a pair of portable inverters that can pair up via a parallel cable. This allows flexibility and portability. Something that would have come in handy for family and friends.

There are the expected options, like Honda's EU2200i and Yamaha's offerings. However, they aren't cheap. I was browsing Amazon last night and came across the Westinghouse iGen2500 which has a larger 98cc engine (the 80cc engines never seemed to actually offer 2k watts) and looks about right. It's going for $759 CDN. The Honda is about $1700 CDN on this side of the border.

Thoughts, suggestions and experienced wanted

People around here go for overkill on generators, especially portable generators.

If you are willing to use heavy duty extension cords and are willing to not run more than 1 heavy load at a time (no microwave and heater at the same time), 3000+ watts is plenty of power for what you described.

Get 2 50-100' 12 gauge extension cords. Also get a 12 gauge "triple tap". Use one of the cords for your heater and then the other can be split 3 ways.

Now here is where things get tricky ! Most generators over 300 watts have a 240V outlet. The question is, do the 120V outlets each use one half of that 240V. If there are 2 120V circuit breaker, then the answer is yes. Plug one cord into one outlet and the other into the other outlet.

If you only have 1 circuit breaker, your 3000+ watt generator likely has a "RV" outlet. Skip the 2 12 gauge extension cords and get 1 10 gauge extension cord. You will also need an adapter from the RV style to regular 120V outlet.

Another one to consider - Champion 3500/4000 watt generator. Like most portable generators it is made in China, but the company is based in the US and stocks all of the parts "on shore".

 

[Astro_Guy]

I have owned a Champion 3500/4000 watt traditional open frame unit since 2013. In the summer of 2019 I purchased a Harbor Freight Predator 3500 inverter generator. Here are my thoughts on these:

• Both are fuel efficient, running 3 hours or more on a gallon of gas the way I load them
• The inveter generator is much, MUCH quieter
• The HF Predator inveter generator runs sensitive electronic well; the Champion didn't
• I've run two refrigerators, one chest freezer, and the dushwasher on sani cycle with heated dry on both generators. The inverter generator seemed to hande it better, even in its ECO mode

 

[Donald]

If you want a serious backup generator you need a propane one.

 

[dakota99]

For what it's worth I have the Champion open frame inverter model (3500 / 4000) and while it works wonderfully 99% of the time, it struggles with my refrigerator. I have no idea why, it starts the freezer just fine, furnace fine and A/C in eco mode but when the fridge kicks on the kitchen lights dim and the voltage drops momentarily to around 100 - 105 volts. Everything seems fine but the dish hopper box and tv's shut down with the low voltage. That and I just don't like it dropping that low. Turning eco mode off everything runs just fine. I feel like that defeats the purpose of the whole thing though. Something to keep in mind.

I wish they made plug in inline capacitors similar to hard start caps for a/c's, that would fix the problem. Fridge must use a ton of power on startup. It's a newer kenmore elite and so is the freezer so I don't know.

 

[hatt]

Originally Posted by dakota99
For what it's worth I have the Champion open frame inverter model (3500 / 4000) and while it works wonderfully 99% of the time, it struggles with my refrigerator. I have no idea why, it starts the freezer just fine, furnace fine and A/C in eco mode but when the fridge kicks on the kitchen lights dim and the voltage drops momentarily to around 100 - 105 volts. Everything seems fine but the dish hopper box and tv's shut down with the low voltage. That and I just don't like it dropping that low. Turning eco mode off everything runs just fine. I feel like that defeats the purpose of the whole thing though. Something to keep in mind.

I wish they made plug in inline capacitors similar to hard start caps for a/c's, that would fix the problem. Fridge must use a ton of power on startup. It's a newer kenmore elite and so is the freezer so I don't know.
Sounds strange. My 2000 will run fridge and 5k a/c at the same time with no problem. Are you saying it doesn't like to start the fridge with only the fridge hooked up to the gen?