Tiburon @ 200,000mi oil consumption

Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
2,283
Location
California
If it's spec'd for a 5w30, I would run a cheap but good syn blend (e.g. Chevron Supreme, Mobil Super) and keep it topped up.
The story goes... conventional does not burn as much as synthetic because conventional does not flow as good as synthetic. Personally I never believed this to be true, but also I haven't owned an oil burner since 2009. In your situation, it could not hurt to try.
 

Shel_B

Site Donor 2022
Joined
Aug 7, 2020
Messages
2,431
Save your money & don’t purchase additives or expensive oils.

Your money would be best utilized by either

a) rebuilding the engine

or

b) bailing out and getting a different car. There may be well made cheap cars, but your car only fits the latter category. An oil additive is not going to change that reality.

or

c) continue adding a quart of oil every now and then. Maybe it's not your preference, but many folks do just that.
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2020
Messages
98
Location
OR
Car: '03 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0L 4-cylinder
Current Oil: 5w-30 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic (High Mileage)

The car consumes oil, likely from the neglectful owner previously, as I am the second. I've tried using 10w40 weight to reduce the consumption, but the higher viscosity makes no difference. I was interested in looking at oil stabilizers such as Lucas, but before I tried I figured I'd post here.
It’s a Hyundai. It will burn oil. Hyundai’s burn oil. Wife’s 2017 Elantra burns oil and it’s a low mileage car, under 50k.
 
Joined
Nov 21, 2020
Messages
134
My 18 kia rio N/A 1.6 has burned a little since 40k miles. Its like clockwork come 3,500 miles into a change. I check and its down 1/2 to 3/4 quart. I can check it at 2500-3000 and it is still to the top of the hash marks. Hits 3500 and BOOM level drops. I top it off and it is good for my 5,000 mile oci that i run. No way i would run the manufacturers recommended 7,500. I am currently at 66k and have tried different brands as well as weights, all with near same results. Pcv changed every 30k. Super tech burns the least, and castrol edge BB burned the most, but they are never + or - a quarter of a quart difference. I am currently running valvoline ep 5-30, and trying it for the first time. Expensive for a 5k oci but whatever. When i first realized it started burning i let it drive me crazy, but i’m pretty much over it at this point. OP i would just drive it, top it off when needed, and roll it until something breaks, or the consumption gets crazy. 1 quart in 1500 miles falls into the acceptable limits for new cars….. unfortunately.
 
Last edited:

RugopsOP

Thread starter
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
19
I've got an oil change coming up at 201k which is soon so I shopped for oil. My usual is Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage which costs $24.47 for a 5qt jug. Upon price checking it with Castrol's standard oil the price difference is negligible as it is $22.47 🤔

I might try Valvoline's Full Synthetic "Enhanced MaxLife" as it was recommended but also the same price as Castrol's.

It’s a Hyundai. It will burn oil. Hyundai’s burn oil. Wife’s 2017 Elantra burns oil and it’s a low mileage car, under 50k.
I've been around Tiburons (Beta & Delta) some with more miles than this one and they don't burn. 🤔
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
896
Location
Omaha, NE USA
Unless the car is leaving a huge smoke screen behind you everywhere you go, I would just top off as needed and not worry too much about it. My grandmother's last car burned pretty excessive amounts of oil from about 65,000 miles clear until 175,000 miles when she eventually quit driving due to her age and her vision. She was burning through a quart every couple of hundred miles towards the end. With the mileage on your car, the value of it really doesn't support doing any serious repair work which is ultimately what's needed to remedy this type of problem.
 

RugopsOP

Thread starter
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
19
@fisher83 at what stage of oil consumption does blue smoke appear? And excessively?
As mentioned, this car, burns a qt ~1500mi but never see blue smoke even at high rpm.


I would consider a rebuild, but this car is an automatic (definitely not preferred) so for me to want to go through the trouble of pulling the motor, doing a teardown and rebuild I would want to manual swap it. Which just complicates it as I would need the trans, cables, slave/master cylinder, new pedals, shifter, center console top, ECU, gauge cluster, clutch, flywheel, fluid reservoir, etc... So that depends on if I can find a wrecked donor car.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
896
Location
Omaha, NE USA
@fisher83 at what stage of oil consumption does blue smoke appear? And excessively?
As mentioned, this car, burns a qt ~1500mi but never see blue smoke even at high rpm.

The amount of oil burning that you are experiencing honestly sounds pretty reasonable for the age and mileage of the car. You've already reached a mileage beyond what many cars on the road ever do. In my view, if you can get a car to 200k miles with no serious repairs you have already won! I'd leave it be other than adding oil when needed and start saving for a replacement car for when that day inevitably comes. 200k miles is rare, 250k miles is even more rare, and so on.
 
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
2,173
As much as you probably don’t like the fact that your car is burning a quart every 1,500 miles, keep in mind...there are much worse thing in life than having a 200,000 Plus mile car burning oil.

I’m not saying it’s “normal”, but in all honesty it’s not all that far from normal at that mileage. I’d love with it and happily drive another 100,000 miles. Just my opinion.
 
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
15,534
Location
Canada
It couldn’t hurt to try a fill of 10W-40 or 15W-40 HDEO during the warmer months, just to see if it changes anything.
Had the same engine in a 2010 Soul; it ran like a top but burned oil at about the same rate at about 160k miles.
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2005
Messages
6,007
Location
North Texas
If you have the owners manual check to see if it says anything about the pcv. My co workers I believe 2008 Hyundai 4 cylinder it stated about it with 40K intervals. He experienced oil consumption, changed the valve and it got a lot better.
 

RugopsOP

Thread starter
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
19
If you have the owners manual check to see if it says anything about the pcv. My co workers I believe 2008 Hyundai 4 cylinder it stated about it with 40K intervals. He experienced oil consumption, changed the valve and it got a lot better.
PCV has been replaced and is up to date.
It couldn’t hurt to try a fill of 10W-40 or 15W-40 HDEO during the warmer months, just to see if it changes anything.
Had the same engine in a 2010 Soul; it ran like a top but burned oil at about the same rate at about 160k miles.
Ran 10W-40 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage and i didn't see a difference.
Ideally I would like a 5W-40 variant, but it doesn't seem much if any good synthetic is made from such.
And it's a Hyundai from the early 2000's/1990's...
I'd argue Hyundai was at its best then. Sure, they're more flashy and sophisticated now but I think less resilient.
 

Jackson_Slugger

$50 Site Donor 2022
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
1,678
Location
New York
PCV has been replaced and is up to date.

Ran 10W-40 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage and i didn't see a difference.
Ideally I would like a 5W-40 variant, but it doesn't seem much if any good synthetic is made from such.

I'd argue Hyundai was at its best then. Sure, they're more flashy and sophisticated now but I think less resilient.

I had a lot of friends that owned them from when I was in the Army onward, and they tended to chug more oil than gas...
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2021
Messages
1,005
Location
Massachusetts
Save your money & don’t purchase additives or expensive oils.

Your money would be best utilized by either

a) rebuilding the engine

or

b) bailing out and getting a different car. There may be well made cheap cars, but your car only fits the latter category. An oil additive is not going to change that reality.

Z
Or c) just add oil. People talk about relatively minor oil consumption like it's low compression and the engine is done. Unless you're burning a quart or more every 500 miles and smoking out the tailpipe like you just seafoamed the intake just live with it.
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2021
Messages
1,005
Location
Massachusetts
PCV has been replaced and is up to date.

Ran 10W-40 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage and i didn't see a difference.
Ideally I would like a 5W-40 variant, but it doesn't seem much if any good synthetic is made from such.

I'd argue Hyundai was at its best then. Sure, they're more flashy and sophisticated now but I think less resilient.
Honestly the M1 HM 10w-40 is not that great, it shears very quickly and is loaded with VII. Try something more heavy duty like Valvoline premium blue 15w-40 or Maxlife 10w-40, that'll put some hair on your motor's chest. Who cares if it's not full synthetic? Certainly not the 18 wheelers hauling 40 tons under the extreme shock loads of a 16:1 compression ratio engine.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Messages
224
Location
West Central Texas
Honestly the M1 HM 10w-40 is not that great, it shears very quickly and is loaded with VII. Try something more heavy duty like Valvoline premium blue 15w-40 or Maxlife 10w-40, that'll put some hair on your motor's chest. Who cares if it's not full synthetic? Certainly not the 18 wheelers hauling 40 tons under the extreme shock loads of a 16:1 compression ratio engine.
+1 on what Accent Abuser said.
The synthetics really aren't helping your cause much, just try any ol HDEO 15W40: Rotella T4, Delo, Valvoline etc. Or Rotella T4 10W30. Or a 10W40 as suggested above. From experience, I now steer clear of synthetics in my old cars. My 1996 K1500 with the 350 likes to consume a bit of oil when it's towing, but when I run Valvoline/Rotella/Delo 15W40, it hardly consumes anything. Just my 2 cents. YMMV
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
37,129
Location
NY
You said you replaced the PCV valve, did you use OE or aftermarket? Over the years I cheaped out from time to time and tried aftermarket crap to replace a PCV valve, and actually caused oil use until I smartened up and got an OE part. OE is the only way to go with PCV valves. Having said that if you used OE and you have no leaks you can try a piston soak, the rings might be coked up, I would also give HPL's engine cleaner a shot, you might get lucky if coked up rings is the problem. Otherwise diagnosis like a compression test and inspection of valve seals is in order, or buy the cheapest oil and keep adding it.
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2014
Messages
1,965
Location
Toronto Canada
1qt/1500mi

I've done 3000mi oil changes for the past 20k or so. 🤯 also have been using Seafoam in crankcase during this time too

It's not a huge concern honestly because I have had the car for so long and I'm not too lazy to top it off regularly.

Also, all gaskets including the oil cap and PCV have been replaced with OEM parts.
With the amount of fresh additives you are putting into the crankcase every month, I suggest you reap the benefits of the fresh oil by extending your oil changes to 7-8,000 miles.
Life is short.
 
Top