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Thoughts on Castrol GTX
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Originally Posted By: crazycrak
I am currently runing Castrol GTX 5w-30 In both my cars and I was wondering what everone thought of the oil.
When I ran conventional oils in the past, and even now in the rare instance where I run a conventional instead of synthetic, GTX is my 1st choice.
I am currently runing Castrol GTX 5w-30 In both my cars and I was wondering what everone thought of the oil.
When I ran conventional oils in the past, and even now in the rare instance where I run a conventional instead of synthetic, GTX is my 1st choice.
I used it in my cars for many years, back in the early '80s when the company's ads touted it as "for today's smaller engines." I got away from it when I used Valvoline for a while, then I came to BITOG and have learned much.
I've got 5 quarts of on-sale 5W-30 GTX in the Buick at the moment. The Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 got consumed -- over two 5000-mile intervals, I had to add over a quart, with the first "low oil" message showing up at 2600 miles into the interval. At present I'm at 2800 miles into the current Castrol change, and the oil is sitting right between the add and full marks on the dipstick.
Anecdotal evidence, take it for what it's worth, etc. But dino (or at least this dino) seems to work better for this car.
I've got 5 quarts of on-sale 5W-30 GTX in the Buick at the moment. The Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 got consumed -- over two 5000-mile intervals, I had to add over a quart, with the first "low oil" message showing up at 2600 miles into the interval. At present I'm at 2800 miles into the current Castrol change, and the oil is sitting right between the add and full marks on the dipstick.
Anecdotal evidence, take it for what it's worth, etc. But dino (or at least this dino) seems to work better for this car.
I have had the worst consumption with GTX of any oil I have ever used. In several cars I tied it in it burned oil when nothing else in those engines burned a drop.
PYB is superior in every way IMO.
GTX is the last dino on my list. Even behind supertech and Napa brand.
PYB is superior in every way IMO.
GTX is the last dino on my list. Even behind supertech and Napa brand.
I have an old 1978 Kawasaki KZ650 motorcycle I rode 160,000 miles in 15 yrs or so always using Castrol GTX 10w40 winter, 20w50 summer. Of course 160,000 is a long way on a small air cooled engine, but there was so much sludge in that engine, oil could hardly drain near the end. This with oil changing religeously and documented on paper every 2000 miles since it was new. I guess I can't blame castrol for a worn out engine, but you should see in that engine, black crud 3/8" deep throughout. So it definately does not work on engines that run hot and/or have excessive blowby. I was burning about a quart every 300-350 miles. Surely worn, but not horrible.
crazycrak
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ehhhh I hope mine dont do that. does it have a oil fitler?
I think its great oil but also very expensive for dino oil.
I like how it looks clean and clear, YB is way darker in virgin state. Not that it matters. GTX is hard to see on the dipstick when it is new.
I like how it looks clean and clear, YB is way darker in virgin state. Not that it matters. GTX is hard to see on the dipstick when it is new.
I been using this oil for the last two years, and it's a good value. It performs as well in my engine. No complaints about it.
Originally Posted By: crazycrak
I am currently runing Castrol GTX 5w-30 In both my cars and I was wondering what everone thought of the oil.
Originally Posted By: crazycrak
I am currently runing Castrol GTX 5w-30 In both my cars and I was wondering what everone thought of the oil.
Last edited:
Both my dad and I have used it for years, and never had a problem with it. No sludge issues whatsoever, and it seems to be a bit thicker than most other oils of the same weight. This might be why engines seem to run nice and smooth with it. My local WM has 5qt jugs for $12. Not a bad price at all, in my opinion, especially when Valvoline WB is $13.50 and PYB is $12.
Originally Posted By: crazycrak
[/quote]
well this is good to hear Im always worring about the Shadow [censored] out on me
Pfft. Keep a timing belt on it (but even if it breaks its a free-wheeling engine), don't let it run low on coolant, and in another 200k miles you'll be looking for a way to kill it because you're so tired of it (actually, the car will fall apart around the drivetrain if you take care of it). Just ignore the wrist-pin rattle it will develop, too.
The Mopar 2.2/2.5 share main and conrod bearing dimensions with the old B-block v8 engines. Basically that means that the bottom end is almost as strong as a 426 Hemi (the crank IS as strong, but the inline block has a little less structure to support it than the deep-skirted cross-bolted v8 block did). Which is why people can screw the boost up to 20 PSI on turbo 2.5s and extract ~400 horsepower from them without too much grief as long as they keep the fuel mixture rich enough. At those levels, its the top end (head and head gasket) or the connecting rods that will give up first, or the pistons will burn if the mixture goes lean. Very rare to have bottom-end trouble on a 2.2/2.5.
[/quote]
well this is good to hear Im always worring about the Shadow [censored] out on me
Pfft. Keep a timing belt on it (but even if it breaks its a free-wheeling engine), don't let it run low on coolant, and in another 200k miles you'll be looking for a way to kill it because you're so tired of it (actually, the car will fall apart around the drivetrain if you take care of it). Just ignore the wrist-pin rattle it will develop, too.
The Mopar 2.2/2.5 share main and conrod bearing dimensions with the old B-block v8 engines. Basically that means that the bottom end is almost as strong as a 426 Hemi (the crank IS as strong, but the inline block has a little less structure to support it than the deep-skirted cross-bolted v8 block did). Which is why people can screw the boost up to 20 PSI on turbo 2.5s and extract ~400 horsepower from them without too much grief as long as they keep the fuel mixture rich enough. At those levels, its the top end (head and head gasket) or the connecting rods that will give up first, or the pistons will burn if the mixture goes lean. Very rare to have bottom-end trouble on a 2.2/2.5.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
Better than the highly touted Pennzoil YB ?
I would say that it is at least as good.
Better than the highly touted Pennzoil YB ?
I would say that it is at least as good.
Originally Posted By: sunfire
Why get GTX when YB is a competitively priced group II+ oil?
In tests, GTX often performs as good as the synthetic blends and full synthetics, often beating PYB.
Why get GTX when YB is a competitively priced group II+ oil?
In tests, GTX often performs as good as the synthetic blends and full synthetics, often beating PYB.
Originally Posted By: bobfather99
Originally Posted By: StevieC
GTX is a very good oil and will serve you well, but you might find better value for your money with another oil that is cheaper, like Pennzoil YB.
Bingo!!! There are better values out there for dino oil. Same applies for Havoline DS. Great oil, but the price is a little high compared to others in the market.
GTX and Pennzoil are the same price at Walmart. $12 for 5 quarts.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
GTX is a very good oil and will serve you well, but you might find better value for your money with another oil that is cheaper, like Pennzoil YB.
Bingo!!! There are better values out there for dino oil. Same applies for Havoline DS. Great oil, but the price is a little high compared to others in the market.
GTX and Pennzoil are the same price at Walmart. $12 for 5 quarts.
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
I have had the worst consumption with GTX of any oil I have ever used. In several cars I tied it in it burned oil when nothing else in those engines burned a drop.
PYB is superior in every way IMO.
GTX is the last dino on my list. Even behind supertech and Napa brand.
I used the GTX 5W20 Blend in my 99 Grand Marquis a couple of times when I had it..The car used almost a quart beteen changes..Not low enough to add any though..With the Motorcraft 5W20 it didn't use a drop so I just stuck to the Motorcraft.
I have had the worst consumption with GTX of any oil I have ever used. In several cars I tied it in it burned oil when nothing else in those engines burned a drop.
PYB is superior in every way IMO.
GTX is the last dino on my list. Even behind supertech and Napa brand.
I used the GTX 5W20 Blend in my 99 Grand Marquis a couple of times when I had it..The car used almost a quart beteen changes..Not low enough to add any though..With the Motorcraft 5W20 it didn't use a drop so I just stuck to the Motorcraft.
Castrol's ads are positively inane, but there's nothing wrong with the product. GTX, 5W-30, has been my conventional oil of choice for years.
Originally Posted By: RamAir5
Why do some oils cause consumption? Why would one oil be "consumed" more than another? Just curious.
I would think it's the chemistry mix of the additive package.
To the original poster - Castrol makes some good oil products and also makes some enemies through their "marketing".
I've used it without headache, GTX when I get it on sale (rarely), and their old formula GC synthetic has kept a known sludger going well for 115k without complaint.
Why do some oils cause consumption? Why would one oil be "consumed" more than another? Just curious.
I would think it's the chemistry mix of the additive package.
To the original poster - Castrol makes some good oil products and also makes some enemies through their "marketing".
I've used it without headache, GTX when I get it on sale (rarely), and their old formula GC synthetic has kept a known sludger going well for 115k without complaint.
Does anyone have a link to a good product info or specs? What I get from the castrol site is lacking in a lot of values. Funny, I hadn't looked at Castrol recently until I noticed W-M had price dropped to $12/jug. From what I can tell, the 20 and 30 grades are on the thick side and the 40 grade is on the thin side. GTX 10-40 might could be a poor man's GC - at least from an acea a3 view.
Euro GTX 10w-40 carries ACEA A3. Their A1 oils correspond to our Semi-Blended products, so the A3 rating is extraordinary. It's likely our Syntec Blend.
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