Thinkin of Bypass for Focus

[Jackpot01]

Hey All,
I am really interested in a bypass filter for my Ford Focus. I just wanna keep it clean and smooth running for years. I might be taking this car on the road for work next year which means lots of miles and not alot of time for changing oil. Any recommendations? I want something that is easy to install

Eric

 

[deepsquat]

Site sponser Ralph Wood www.bypasssfilter.com ...

 

[olympic]

1 too many "s"'s there.

www.bypassfilter.com

I'm happy with my Amsoil dual remote system. It's a little bulky so you need a fairly big space to mount it. The single remote mount is more compact but requires a little more creativity to install.

 

[Jackpot01]

I was lookin over that site...you mean they just use Toilet Paper to filter?? Wouldnt that degrade and cause problems??

Eric

 

[sifan]

Only if you leave the TP in the canister too long and allow the acid to desroy it. If you want something easy to install, try the oilguard bypass filter, which has a very compact size. I have seen someone insalled it on top of the car battery with little clearance between the hood and the battery.

oilguard.com/

[ July 26, 2004, 02:59 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]

 

[RalphPWood]

The easiest way to install a bypass filter is to use a sandwich adapter and run oil lines to the bypass filter. When I signed up as a Motor Guard dealer in 1966 the thing that impressed me about them was they were very easy to change. Most cars had a lot of room under the hood for a 5" wide filter. Some of these new cars are a packed suit case under the hood. You will need to spend a minute about every 4,000 miles to change the filter and add a qt of oil. As a rule of thumb every 4,000 miles on a four, 3,000 for a 6 and 2,000 for a 8. Or you can just change the filter enough to keep the oil looking like new oil. If the oil is getting dirty is will look like dark honey instead of lite honey.
The Motor Guard elements are a little smaller than 4 1/4". I like to unroll the Scott Kimberly Clark 10 rounds to make it about 4 1/4". You can also wrap the roll with Polypropylene box sealing tape to keep the paper from pinching in the gasket. I set up the Motor Guard to use a firm roll of TP. If someone wants to use the Motor Guard element they can remove the polyethylene core.
Some of the little engines have an undersized filter mount and take a 2 1/1" OD gasket instead of the standard 2 3/4 OD gasket. For those I use a Perma-Cool universal 189 adapter and convert the Chevrolet adapter plate to fit the smaller mount. It is easy with a lathe. My Camry 4 is one of those.
Watch out for filter makers that recommend extended filter change intervals. They have a higher wear rate. There is no free lunch. To eliminate routine oil drains and most engine wear you need to change the filter enough to keep the oil analytically clean 100 percent of the time and add enough make up oil to keep the additive package up. The old TP filters were designed for the smaller sized core. Instead of changing the filters to fit the newer TP they came out with their own element. Since I had to make parts for the Motor Guards that can take the heat it was easy to set the filters up for the new TP. For the old Motor Guards such as the M-100 I sleeve the internal core at the bottom. Motor Guard had three models for lube oil in the 60s. The M-100, the M-200 and the M-400. The larger numbers meant 2 and 4 mounted on one bracket for larger engines. The M-400 was a very effective filter for over the road trucks. They had to be changed often but they could be changed on the road with no spillage about every 3,000 miles.

Ralph

 

[mjo]

Eric,

Good for you on your determination. I have installed a bypass filter on my Saturn '95 and it is running nice and smooth now. Takes out the water, grit and some fuel out of the oil so much better for engine. Sorry don't have my pictures yet (on sisters camera) but will try to explain. The way that I went about it was to move the battery into the trunk and then install a Frantz attached to a base plate under the hood. This base plate is the size of the battery which sits on top of two square metal hollow (tapped) beams about 1"x1"x9". The base is bolted to these beams along its two longest edges and the beams are therein bolted to the battery base. This allows me to drill and tap a bunch of holes into the metal base without tapping the (plastic) battery base. After mounting the frantz to metal base I hooked it to a 1/8" NPT ball valve (hardware store). Also, a mechanical oil pressure gauge (Carquest auto store), the oil pressure sender, and the pressure source from the OPS port are all connected to the valve using a 1/8" NPT pipe cross (hardware store). The benefit of this is that the rather large & heavy OPS isn't dangling from an NPT tee buried under the intake manifold, most of the vital parts are diagnosable on this metal plate. The metal plate I used was 1/4" aluminum sheet metal. Whenever a fitting leaks, it is easily noticeable as oil on top of clear shiny aluminum. The connection from the OPS port to the pipe cross is a simple straight rubber hose, therefore it is less likely that something will happen at the OPS port end. And when you get your next car, you can easily reconnect the factory-installed setup and put your frantz setup on your new car.

P.S. Don't use cheap brake line to connect to Frantz filter. ANY vibration will start a slow drip that will get worse will require constant fixing.

Cheers

 

[Bio-T]

quote:

---

Originally posted by sifan:
Only if you leave the TP in the canister too long and allow the acid to desroy it. If you want something easy to install, try the oilguard bypass filter, which has a very compact size. I have seen someone insalled it on top of the car battery with little clearance between the hood and the battery.

oilguard.com/

---

I don't think that the Oil Guard is any easier to install than the Frantz or Motor Guard, unless you are talking about the pint sized EPS-10 from Oil Guard. Then the space required is a tiny bit smaller for that.
I have been using the Frantz for over 30 years and no problems. I have a cannister in the garage that has the used TP in it for over 18 years now. Can you tell me when the acid is going to destroy that tissue? I am real curious on that one.

I have an EPS-20 on my 95 PSD for over 2 years now. I am removing it and installing a Motor Guard. Have to order first. I will be selling the EPS-20 from Motor Guard. Not happy with the UOA's on this unit. Nice statement to make about a product I am selling, but sometimes the truth hurts.

 

[sifan]

I borrowed the acid statment from one of Ralph's message in another thread which seems to make sense.

ESP-10 was the one I saw mounted on top of a battery. Since Jackpot01 wants something easy to install, that is what comes to my mind assuming he is not looking into moving the battery to the trunk as I did for installing Frantz filter. I have no experience with Oilguard products.

 

[phordguy]

When you moved the battery to the trunk, what gauge wire did you run for the positive/negative? Did you use one of the trunk mounting kits or your own creation? I've seen the plastic boat battery cases and was going to use a 1 or 2 gauge cable on my little honda civic for this purpose and just tie the neg to the frame somewhere there in the back so I don't need the long length. I know summitt sells a generic kit but was wondering how your install went. How did you splice into the wires in the engine compartment? On my fords it would be easy to just run them to the solenoid and the ground but the honda has a more complicated harness...

Thanks

 

[sifan]

I ordered the battery relocation kit from Jeg's:

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=134664&prmenbr=361

I used the cables without any modifications. I simply hooked one end of the positive cable to the cable that connected to the positive battery terminal in the engine bay. I found a place in the trunk to connect one end of negative cable to the frame. The cables were a bit longer than needed; but, I let them coil in the trunk just in case I will need to move the battery around in the trunk without disconnecting the cables. I replaced the OEM battery with an Odyssey PC1200 dry cell battery; thus, eliminated the need for a battery box. I did install a pair of battery terminal covers. Hope this help.

 

[mjo]

The way I did it was I bought a cheap kit for $40 bucks off of Ebay. The best way to relocate the battery is if both cables extend from battery to hood area. I also think they should be half the gauge (twice as thick) as your OEM cables. Since the ground cable from the kit was too short to extend to the hood, I bought a second cable 20' long.
For the installation, all that was needed was to extend and support the two cables on their way to the hood w/ strip ties and the supplied clamps. Make sure that all cable is away from suspension parts striking the cable. Under the hood, both the OEM positive & negative battery cables are bolted down on the Saturn. I just rebolted the same polarity OEM cable with the relocated cable for both polarities and was in business.

 

[RalphPWood]

I saw a roll of tp that had been in a Frantz for about three years and 60,000 miles. It looked like a chunk of carbon shaped like tp. The oil was too thick and part of the full flow filter element was missiong. The guy said he had been so busy he hadn't had time to change the filter. I have a big computer controlled Gardner Denver air compressor at work. The oil is very agressive. The Motor Guard is filtering a mixture of oil compressed air and water. I know that at 500 hours the paper is still strong and at 1000 hrs it is starting to get rotten. Instead of trying to figure out how long it will go before it starts getting rotten I just change the filter every 500 hrs. If you buy a used car and the full flow filter looks like it hasn't been changed in a long time there is a good chance that if you cut it open you would see that the paper is brittle and rotten. I would rather the acid be working on the paper than the bearings.
The tp is easy to change. I have used the Frantz since 1963 and the Motor Guard since 1966. Your engine doesn't care which tp filter you use for lube oil. The Motor Guard has the advanqtage for one pass filtering as for fuel or compressed air. The Oil Guard is not in the same class as the Motor Guard or Franz. The few that can clean oil as good as the Frantz and Motor Guard are not economical. Acid is a problem only if you let it be.
I put a Frantz on a high performance Mustang a few years ago. It was a pain in the neck. I finally bolted the Frantz to a lift hook in the horizontal position. The guy said he was going to put the battery in the trunk on the next one. When he traded it off he let the filter go with it. That didn't hurt my feelings.
You have to be a problem solver to deal with these new cars. One guy installed a different kind of air filter and that gave him enough room for a Motor Guard. One guy took one battery out and put a high powered battery in place of the othere battery. Then he bolted the M-30 in the empty battery tray. It was a Ford Powerestroke. I sent a M-30 to Shell Oil for a condensation problem in a big air compressor. The engineer said they had used a Frantz and it worked good. Back when I started using the Frantz one major oil company was trying to put Frantz out of business because they saw Frantz as a threat to the oil change business. I never bought gas in their stations again. I think it probably caused them some financial hardships.

Ralph

 

[msparks]

I have the single by-pass filter BMK 11 from Amsoil on my 2003 VW Jetta. If you can fit it on this car I'm sure you can find a spot for it on a Focus.

I'd also bet you could probably find room for a dual remote, but it would probably take some engineering.

Email me if you have any questions.

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