Thickest oil you've ever used.

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20W60 Penrite HPR30. NFI why it's called HPR30 when it's a 60 grade. Car ran like a bag of [censored]. Got conned into using it when I had no idea about cars oils etc. The idiot at the store must have seen 30 grade as the specified weight and thought HPR30 was suitable because it had 30 in the name.

Note, engine did not blow up. So even double the spec did not kill it.
 
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Originally Posted By: KL31
20W60 Penrite HPR30. NFI why it's called HPR30 when it's a 60 grade. Car ran like a bag of [censored]. Got conned into using it when I had no idea about cars oils etc. The idiot at the store must have seen 30 grade as the specified weight and thought HPR30 was suitable because it had 30 in the name.

Note, engine did not blow up. So even double the spec did not kill it.

Was that in your MX-3? If so no wonder that little 1.8 V6? ran like [censored] on 20W-60, my car would probably love it and i really want to try the HPR30 .
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Sunflower oil as an assembly lube.

BIG mistake, but at least I WIN.

It sets solid, and is a pretty strong adhesive.

This ism't too surprising, since it forms epoxides by oxidation, but I didn't know that then.


Laugh !! I've done that too.

As a young 'en, I wanted to see if vegetable oil would work as an accelerator cable lube on my 2-stroke Yamaha motorcycle. It did, for about a week, then set solid riding home one night.

It set open, so I kept flicking the kill switch on & off to keep my speed reasonable. I made it home and cleaned it out the next day with some WD40.
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Sunflower oil as an assembly lube.

BIG mistake, but at least I WIN.

It sets solid, and is a pretty strong adhesive.

This ism't too surprising, since it forms epoxides by oxidation, but I didn't know that then.


Laugh !! I've done that too.

As a young 'en, I wanted to see if vegetable oil would work as an accelerator cable lube on my 2-stroke Yamaha motorcycle. It did, for about a week, then set solid riding home one night.

It set open, so I kept flicking the kill switch on & off to keep my speed reasonable. I made it home and cleaned it out the next day with some WD40.

Should have used olive oil, it can withstand 200 degrees centigrade
smile.gif
 
80w-90 gear oil in a 1979 3/4 ton Chevy truck with a 350 engine. It went through / burned any kind of drain oil I could find and fouled the spark plugs. I kept a box full of clean plugs in the truck and changed / cleaned them every couple of days. How it kept running was a mystery to me but it made it through a summer for Landscaping use.
 
Originally Posted By: KL31
20W60 Penrite HPR30. NFI why it's called HPR30 when it's a 60 grade.


I think because 20W-60 was their Multigrade replacement for a heavy duty SAE 30 monograde. Hence the 30, with HPR standing for High Performance Racing, as it was their racing oil back in the day.

This is all ancient history, as 10-Tenths is the racing oil now, and I don't think this naming convention applies to the newer HPR synthetics where the monograde equivalent does not make sense, but the original HPR series were only the thicker mineral oils. So HPR 40 is a 25W-70 oil that can be used as a replacement for cars requiring SAE 40.
 
Originally Posted By: Silk
Emissions killed the SU, put them on a digital 4 or 5 gas and you'll see how high the HC and CO are, that needle jet doesn't atomise the fuel enough. Last of them had stepper motors on the main jet controlled by the ECU. Such a good idea, but still too dirty.


I think the emissions thing was part of the reason why MGs went to a single Z-S in the US, although as I mentioned the requirement for an auto choke I think had something to do with it also.

Unfortunately, a leaky/poorly maintained Z-S is also an accident waiting. The car will probably run very rich in the first place, which will make the cat hot enough to glow red, and gas drips right down on top of it. A fair number of cars caught on fire because of that.

I'd hate for someone to hook a sniffer up to my tailpipe, as I tend to run my car a bit on the rich side anyway. The engine seems to run better, and I get better performance. I don't go too much, though. Trust me when I say I've had some funny looks when people see me sniffing the tail pipe of my car
smile.gif


I love the simplicity of SUs, and the use of a metering needle was enough for Bosch to even acknowledge the design for its ability to meter gas in their early fuel injection manuals.

At least in the US, I think that emissions regulations ultimately killed all carburetors. The last few production cars with carbs were a nightmare of complexity and the interim measure of replacing a typical 4-barrel carb with a single injector(throttle body injection) was a welcome change when it came.
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Sunflower oil as an assembly lube.

BIG mistake, but at least I WIN.

It sets solid, and is a pretty strong adhesive.

This ism't too surprising, since it forms epoxides by oxidation, but I didn't know that then.


Laugh !! I've done that too.

As a young 'en, I wanted to see if vegetable oil would work as an accelerator cable lube on my 2-stroke Yamaha motorcycle. It did, for about a week, then set solid riding home one night.

It set open, so I kept flicking the kill switch on & off to keep my speed reasonable. I made it home and cleaned it out the next day with some WD40.

Should have used olive oil, it can withstand 200 degrees centigrade
smile.gif



When I was last in Australia I bought a second-hand book on outback driving. It's not to hand, but it describes emergency use of butter and graphite in a leaky gearbox.

Think polymerised SFO is quite a lot thicker than that, though.
 
Originally Posted By: bunnspecial
Unfortunately, a leaky/poorly maintained Z-S is also an accident waiting. The car will probably run very rich in the first place, which will make the cat hot enough to glow red, and gas drips right down on top of it. A fair number of cars caught on fire because of that.

I'd hate for someone to hook a sniffer up to my tailpipe, as I tend to run my car a bit on the rich side anyway. The engine seems to run better, and I get better performance. I don't go too much, though. Trust me when I say I've had some funny looks when people see me sniffing the tail pipe of my car
smile.gif



One of my first test runs when I fitted triple 1-3/4" SUs to my Holden 6, I learned the importance of replacing the rubber tipped needles on second hand carbs...petrol raining over the exhaust headers...
 
I might still have a couple of SU books (too many shifts), one detailing specs for every car fitted with an SU, and a book of needle specs - every needle, and dimensions at 10 intervals, 12 on some longer needles. It didn't help with my SU tuning when I fitted them to things like motorcycles, because most of the needles were not available anyway. I have several motorcycle carbs that use the same metering system, just a graduated needle and nothing else. Mine are Blue Magnum, a later version of the Lectron.
 
I HAD that book too...alas too many shifts, and parents with a propensity to throw anything out that they didn't see a need for in THEIR world.
 
Hah! Just been out in the shed and found my needle book - 28 to a page, 24 pages, so that's 672 different needles. I paid $1.10 for it. Still don't know where the other book is.
 
Well I just said I'd used straight 70, none of the wimpy multigrade stuff. I might've used it in my MkII Escort, it really sucked oil, until I put some rings in it.
 
Did the Escort have the 2.0L OHC Pinto engine? They seem to have a tendency to start drinking oil at high miles i took a local Capri i was thinking of buying for a test drive with a 2L Pinto but it smoked a lot and that put me off.
 
No, it was just a one owner 1300. The engine was perfect when I pulled it down, a set of new rings and it was good as.
 
Pennzoil 20w50 in my brother's oil burning Saturn. It still managed to burn through a quart of it every 200-300 miles.
 
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