Thick vs thin debate...

That's right. No A/C during summer it adds more load to engine. Roll down the windows and turn the heater on :)

there used to be signs on some freeways (going uphill) to turn the AC off. Not sure if we still have them or not. also in old days small 4-cyl cars didn't come with "factory air".
I remember the old domestic 4cyl cars couldn't even make it up a hill with the AC on. The Japanese always had the knack for making the best 4cyl cars. Domestics always shined when it came to powerful V8s.
 
That's right. No A/C during summer it adds more load to engine. Roll down the windows and turn the heater on :)

there used to be signs on some freeways (going uphill) to turn the AC off. Not sure if we still have them or not. also in old days small 4-cyl cars didn't come with "factory air".


I saw those signs heading east through the Mojave. They are pretty old though and that was a number of years ago. They also had water barrels about every mile. For modern cars water won’t be the answer anyway and there was a small sign at each one to beware of hornets.
 
I saw those signs heading east through the Mojave. They are pretty old though and that was a number of years ago. They also had water barrels about every mile. For modern cars water won’t be the answer anyway and there was a small sign at each one to beware of hornets.
Climbing Pikes Peak, A/C might be detrimental to your engine as literally every hp counts. Not that you need A/C though, but people leave it on bcs. it is always on.
Number of overheated cars in temperatures around 40 in mid tourist season per trip is always 5-6 on a way up.
Ambient temperature is nothing to what altitude can do to an engine.
 
Climbing Pikes Peak, A/C might be detrimental to your engine as literally every hp counts. Not that you need A/C though, but people leave it on bcs. it is always on.
Number of overheated cars in temperatures around 40 in mid tourist season per trip is always 5-6 on a way up.
Ambient temperature is nothing to what altitude can do to an engine.


Doesn’t even have to be Pikes Peak. Going over the Siskyous complex in the summer I always saw cars and trucks pulled over overheating.
 
Actually there is only proof that they select thinner oils for fuel economy.

No engine will be damaged by a thicker oil. Some engines can be specifically designed for thinner oils, or tolerate them. No one can refute that a higher HT/HS with a corresponding higher MOFT isn't more margin to prevent metal-to-metal contact.
True, but of course the million dollar question is whether the higher MOFT is justified. In the vast majority of cases it isn't and there's almost 20 years worth of "back spec'd" engines which support that assertion.
 
True, but of course the million dollar question is whether the higher MOFT is justified. In the vast majority of cases it isn't and there's almost 20 years worth of "back spec'd" engines which support that assertion.
Yep, do you buy oil for the worst case scenario or for the most likely scenario.
 
For me, it's worst case scenario. I tow 6,000 lbs with my 20 year old 5.3L with 270k miles. If I have to go up a steep grade for quite a ways, down in 3rd gear, lugging up the hill, I like to know the engine oil, ATF, and gear oil aren't going to miss a lick. I want what will handle the towing, not what will handle the easy daily commute down the highway. Any oil can handle the daily commute. That said, I still don't go to a higher oil grade. I stick with a 30 grade, but pick one with a >3.5 cP HTHS. The rear end is an exception where I run a 75w-110 instead of 75w-90.
 
I usually use the thickest allowed per fsm. The Honda K24 is allowed up to a 15W40,but I meet it in the middle with 10W30.
 
Certainly your choice to do so. I don’t think any of the engines in your sig would be harmed by running a “thicker” oil.

But, is it necessary.......
I track BMW.
VW is known fuel diluter.
Sienna can pass, and does, 110mph, while fully loaded with Yakima box on top.

Also, all these engines are designed around heavy oils, including Toyota.
 
For me, it's worst case scenario. I tow 6,000 lbs with my 20 year old 5.3L with 270k miles. If I have to go up a steep grade for quite a ways, down in 3rd gear, lugging up the hill, I like to know the engine oil, ATF, and gear oil aren't going to miss a lick. I want what will handle the towing, not what will handle the easy daily commute down the highway. Any oil can handle the daily commute. That said, I still don't go to a higher oil grade. I stick with a 30 grade, but pick one with a >3.5 cP HTHS. The rear end is an exception where I run a 75w-110 instead of 75w-90.
Can you tell me some 5W-30 oil that is HTHS 3.5? I'd much appreciate it if you will. Thank you.
 
Can you tell me some 5W-30 oil that is HTHS 3.5? I'd much appreciate it if you will. Thank you.

Red Line 5w-30 is probably the best known one at 3.7 cP.

Driven LS30 5w-30 is close at 3.47 cP.

High Performance Lubricants HDEO 5w-30 is 3.49 cP, and their 10w-30 is 3.57 cP.

 
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