Thick/Thin Clatter

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My 90' Ford strait 6 w/55,000 miles has a metalic clatter/ ticking sound at low rpm (maybe at high rpm too, just can't here it). I just had a tune up (plugs,wires,distributer,cap, rotor) and had custom dual exhaust installed. Never noticed the tick, tick, ticking before and it is quite pronounced. I'm on my final 1,000 miles on an RX rinse too, using Supertech 10W30. Question: generally speaking, will a thinner oil cause/allow more noise than a heavier oil? I plan on using 10W40 dino at the next oil change. What else would cause the noise?
 
'Generally', I'd say yes. But every situation is different.

Give it a try, see how it does (10W-40).
 
Originally Posted By: ridgerunner
...had custom dual exhaust installed. Never noticed the tick, tick, ticking before and it is quite pronounced.


Are you sure it doesn't have any exhaust leak? If not, try a heavier oil (cheap 15w40?) and see if the noise changes.
 
No leaks that I can detect. The exhaust is welded too and not clamped on. I've got a case of 10W40 Quaker State (circa 1985) and was going to put in a pint Sheaffers 132 moly for good measure.
 
Just change one thing at a time and observe the results of that one change. It's better scientific method.
 
If it wasn't ticking before and now it is then I'd bet a dollar to a pinch of dog p** thats its the new exhaust. Even if it was welded it could still have a leak. If you went duals then its prolly split into duals up under the cab somewhere and there's your tick. Just my .02
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I wouldn't use the 10w-40 dino oils in any engine I own. 10w-30 protects at least the same without the higher level of viscosity improvers. Is the cam gear driven? powersteering pump? waterpump? fuel injectors? etc.
 
If it ticks, I would start looking at the exhaust manifold/header for a single cylinder leak. After that, a 15w-40 might do the trick....or it may make it worse. You never know until you try it.
 
They love to leak at the AIR tubing where it goes into the head just before the exhaust. That's where mine leaked.

Did you get the stainless headers for it?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
They love to leak at the AIR tubing where it goes into the head just before the exhaust. That's where mine leaked.


Mine leaked there too.
I did run my 87 and 93 F-150 300 sixes with 10w40 oil with no problems at all. Theyll run on anything!!! Too bad mother rust takes them before the engines wear out.
 
Originally Posted By: bobfather99
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
They love to leak at the AIR tubing where it goes into the head just before the exhaust. That's where mine leaked.


Mine leaked there too.
I did run my 87 and 93 F-150 300 sixes with 10w40 oil with no problems at all. Theyll run on anything!!! Too bad mother rust takes them before the engines wear out.


I spoilt mine, it had M1 5w30 in it after I got it
grin2.gif


My suffered an odd fate: One of the timing gears broke. Gave me an excuse to swap a 302HO into it.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
They love to leak at the AIR tubing where it goes into the head just before the exhaust. That's where mine leaked.

Did you get the stainless headers for it?


Nope, I check that area often.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
New exhaust and new ticking tell me something.
An exhaust leak from a small crack or hole often sounds like a metallic ticking.


That's my guess. I'll take it back to the shop that made the exhaust and have them look at it closer and weld any holes found. I have run 5-30 in the past during the winter and it started easy and ran great. Still gonna put that 1985 QS 10-40 in there with some Sheaffers 132 at the next OCI. I got it, might as well try it, especially with that tank of an engine. Thanks guys!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: bobfather99
OVERK1LL said:
They love to leak at the AIR tubing where it goes into the head just before the exhaust. That's where mine leaked.


Mine leaked there too.
I did run my 87 and 93 F-150 300 sixes with 10w40 oil with no problems at all. Theyll run on anything!!! Too bad mother rust takes them before the engines wear out. [/quot

I spoilt mine, it had M1 5w30 in it after I got it
grin2.gif


My suffered an odd fate: One of the timing gears broke. Gave me an excuse to swap a 302HO into it.


That thin M1 killed it!! lol
 
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I would go with Maxlife semi syn 10W30 and add a pint of Sheaffers 132 moly. They both work great...
 
Originally Posted By: fito
I would go with Maxlife semi syn 10W30 and add a pint of Sheaffers 132 moly. They both work great...


I got a jug of that in 10-30 & 40, but saving it for next summer. I also have their 5-30 and saving that for this winter.
 
UPDATE: Yesterday I finally found out what was causing that ticking sound. Going to work I noticed that the ticking got a little louder. Still thinking it was an exhaust leak I kept driving. I came to a stop sign and then onto a two way highway and BANG, CLATTER, CLATTER, CLATTER, VAROOOM etc. Holy sheet!!! It sounded like the whole manifold and headers broke loose!! I pull over and checked the exhaust and right side of the engine where the exhaust headers are, nothing - looked good. I shut the hood, started it up and went 1/2 mile to a mechanic turned excavator that I know. He opened the hood and I restarted the engine. After about 3 seconds he told me to shut it off. "Here's your problem". Well one of the spark plugs unscrewed itself and blew out of the hole. The plug was still on the wire. After burning his hand a few times, he re-gapped the plug and put it back in. Truck ran great, and NO TICKING. Must have been loose from the start! I visited my mechanic and told him what had happened. I thought that maybe he got busy and forget to tighten one of them during the tune-up. He stated that when he removed the old ones that they were all loose and he asured me he tightened the new ones. Anyway, time to put some loc-tight on them here soon so that won't happen again! Ya know, the mechanic/ excavator wouldn't even take any money for helping me out. Great guy, thanks Les! Time to change the oil in this thing today. I'm gonna chicken out and put in the Max-life 10-40. I'll keep the old QS for another time!
 
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I had that happen to me on my 3.0 Mitsubishi. I kept trying to tune the radio in while on the highway (digital display
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). I couldn't figure why the signal was so lousy on all stations (static). I finally turned off the radio and put the engine in neutral. I never would have known it from the way the thing ran. I had to tighten it from time to time. It was the same plug that came loose, but there was nothing wrong with the block treads. It must have been the plug.
 
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