Yes, this video from Premium Guard shows how a P-style gasket is designed to work.
These filters can be cranked down!
- Thread starter GaryMX5
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So does that mean I can tighten the filter as tight as a spark plug?
The farthest it could be tightened is until it stops turning - ie, that's the '"torque stop" feature of a P-style gasket.
If the directions on the box says turn it 3/4 after the gasket first contacts the seat, then do that which should basically make the filter bottom out or real close to it. If it says turn 3/4 to 1 turn then it's probably going to stop turning before 1 turn is achieved.
Thank you for posting the link to PGI's video. Basically, I need to ignore the instructions which are on the oil filter.
The questions I now have are: Since the Carquest Premium 84356 filter I installed yesterday was made by PGI and has the P-style gasket, and I hand-tightened as much as I could, do I risk putting a wrench on it to see if it tightens more? Do I replace it with a new filter following the instructions of screwing it on until the housing touches the base? Or do I leave it alone and watch for leaks?
My concern about tightening more has to do with disturbing the gasket now that it's been on the car and run for 15-20 minutes. Or is it okay to tighten an oil filter more, just don't back off an oil filter/gasket once seated?
Can you see how much air gap there is between the lip of the filter base and engine mount? Use a mirror and flashlight if required. If it looks like the filter is contacting the mount then it's good. It won't hurt to try and see if it tightens more with an appropriate cap tool if there's a noticeable gap.
I just ordered this oil filter wrench made by Motivx Tools and should be here in about a week. I have a stamped POS from Amsoil that would jump flutes like crazy. I almost bought this Motivx a while back, but "saved a few bucks" and bought this oil filter wrench from Lisle. It's great for removing if I can't get my hand-tightened filter loose by hand, but obviously does not work when tightening.
I'll check as soon as I can, but since it's Mother's Day, going to try to not do any car stuff today.
I have multiple filter cap wrenches from all the years. Do you have a caliper to measure the dimension for diameter on the flutes for all your filters? I have the factory Honda Cap for the S2000 filters. They changed manufacturers by the last 2 that I bought and of course it's slightly different. It worked for getting it on tight but getting it back off was a bit too loose and slipped.
I bought one of the cheap rubber strap wrenches from Walmart that has worked when needed. I also have some old metal band ones that work for both ways.
Look at one of your new ones if you have and see how far the gasket and metal retainer / torque ring stick up. That may help judge how far if you need to tighten a bit more. If only 20 minutes I might try to give it a bit tighter tweak, maybe just a 2 hand grip version. As long as it's not leaking it should be fine.
This is what the S2000 version looked like coming off. I know the Honda A01 was about the same. I don't recall on the Carquest EP. Yu can see that outer seam will have a gap even when tight.
I have strap-style and grip-style filter wrenches I can use. I'll see if I can get it to tighten any more until my newest oil filter wrench arrives.
Glad this thread happened. I’ve used Carquest premium twice now. The very first time I did it old school. Just touches and 3/4 more of a turn. It wouldn’t go 3/4. I was concerned but it never leaked. I always just hand tighten.meaning as tight as I can turn it. Which is normally 3/4. I just did an oil change with Carquest. I actually looked at the box or filter this time. It stated turn at least 2/3 of a turn after contact. So I’m gloating between 2/3 and 3/4. lol. No leaks I crawled back under and checked after I put a few miles on it. This is great mental information to know. Thanks for posting this.
Amazing how a simple process, either "1/2 to 3/4 turn after contact", or this new, "Turn until it bottoms out", can be disregarded.
I've watchet the ham-handed ones overdo it all my car life. Now I get to read about it!
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Thanks for posting this video... To think I leaned something new today but with a new way to tighten a filter will come a bunch of DIY oil change folks ( like me ) that never got the memo something changed...
As I now wonder what gasket was on the last oil filter I used...
As I now wonder what gasket was on the last oil filter I used...
I guess why not use an o-ring gasket? A p-style one seems about the same thing? The hydrostat filter on my tractor uses an O-ring for ~200psi and I tighten and loosen by hand. It bottoms out metal to metal.
As usual, curiosity got to me, so I pulled the Pilot up on ramps and tried tightening the filter a little more. I got less than 10 degrees more out of it, but feel like it's a win anyway.
I'll watch it carefully over the next few weeks, but here's what it looks like now:
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
Something doesn’t look right
I crank em all down.
If an oil filter is a replacement for an OE part, it should behave the way the OE part does, and follow the OE repair manual procedure.
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What I do is use a medium size ratchet with a metal handle so that I can get a good feel for tight.
The super comfortable ratchets with the padded handle are nice but they don't let you feel when something is tight.
I install filters with P type gasket same as standard type, no intention of changing it. Last two CQ Premium 84356, hand tight to 2/3-3/4 turn past gasket contact. Check for leaks. A seen above, filter instructions clearly show "3/4 -1 turn" after gasket contact. Do I know 100% it didn't hit the "torque stop"? No,. But I doubt it and saw no evidence of it on the torque stop.
As for the dude with the video, seems he needs to get with the filter label instruction people to arrive at some sort of agreement on install.
As for the dude with the video, seems he needs to get with the filter label instruction people to arrive at some sort of agreement on install.
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Good point ... that's a unique setup as the "torque stop" portion of the filter is above the OD crimp seam of the can.
Yep ... you hit the "torque stop".
