These filters can be cranked down!

My newer carquest filters do this, think they're the Premium Guards everyone loves.

Part of me is happy there's an idiot-proof stop, not for me but for Jiffy Lube and the motoring public. Part of me is annoyed that it's a fold of the can's metal doing it.
 
I put on my first Carquest Premium 84356 today with the P-style gasket and installed it like I've installed every other filter, ~3/4 turn past gasket touching mount or until I couldn't turn it any more, whichever came first.

"Instructions" on filter:
Screenshot 2026-05-09 at 16.41.14.webp
 
Good for them. Toyota's OEM filters have been using the oil filter P gasket since at least the 1980s I like the P gasket setup myself.
 
It's the common installation procedure for an oil filter with a P-style base gasket. Also known as a "torque stop", meaning when the can hits the filter seat then it's time to stop torquing the filter. Every P-style filter I've used will contact the filter seat when properly installed. Even if installed with a torque wrench if a torque value is called out on the filter can or in the service manual the can will contact the filter seat.
 
My question is "why"? I've had filters with molded gaskets and have never felt the need to whale them down any tighter than a lathe-cut gasketed filter.
How do you know the can wasn't touching or a hair away from touching? Someone here had a P-style base gasket blow-out on a cold start and it came down to the filter probably wasn't installed tight enough as the cause.

Edit ... the filter that blew-out the base gasket was a flat cut gasket. Had to go find the thread to verify, thought it was a P-style.
 
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I've installed a ton of P-gasket filters. Never would I want even the slightest metal to metal contact.
"Appears to be touching" leaves some significant room for error.
Ever have to deal with one that is overtightened? I have.
I actually prefer the P-gasket but not the consequences when overtightened.
 
How do you know the can wasn't touching or a hair away from touching? Someone here had a P-style base gasket blow-out on a cold start and it came down to the filter probably wasn't installed tight enough as the cause.
You could say the same about a lathe cut as well.... I just dont see the need to crank them down that tight like the OP's pdf suggests.
 
You could say the same about a lathe cut as well.... I just dont see the need to crank them down that tight like the OP's pdf suggests.
Like said, it's not really "cranking them down" if the filter just touches the filter seat with 3/4 turn after initial gasket contact. Following the directions on the box or can will give that result or close to it. I certainly wouldn't leave much if any gap between the can and seat with a P-style gasket.
 
I went back and found the thread ... my mistake, it was a flat silicone gasket and not a P-style gasket. But the conclusion was the filter was probably not tightened enough and eventually blew out of the groove on a cold morning start-up. Same thing could happen with a P-style gasket too if not installed properly.
 
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How do you know the can wasn't touching or a hair away from touching? Someone here had a P-style base gasket blow-out on a cold start and it came down to the filter probably wasn't installed tight enough as the cause.
This person was using a Pentus filter with a lathe-cut gasket, not a P-style gasket. They later posted they hadn't tightened it correctly.

When this was happening, I had just bought a case of Pentius PLXL7317s and called Pentius and talked to one of their engineers. Pointed to that post here on BITOG and it was the first time they'd heard of a gasket blowing out. We looked at the post together. I believed him. It was after this when the OP said it was his failure to tighten correctly. Again, it was not a P-style gasket.
 
This person was using a Pentus filter with a lathe-cut gasket, not a P-style gasket. They later posted they hadn't tightened it correctly.
Yeah, see post 14. There was all kinds of P-style gasket discussions going on in that thread too, so probably why I thought it was a P-style. I had to go find that thread to verify. Same thing could happen with a P-style gasket if not tightened down enough.
 
I had a P gasket version Honda A01 on my daughters '08 CRV. I took it off to drain the small amount of oil when I swapped from 5W-40 to 5W-20 after about 900 miles. One of maybe 3-4 filters I have reused, that gasket leaked a little bit after going back on the second time.

My Accord currently has a Carquest EP with P-gasket. I drained that, refilled and reinstalled to see what a 10k Valvoline Restore and Protect run looks like on it in my use. I'll see if any leak issues when that happens on next oil and filter change.

The Honda S2000 filters were P gasket and had 2 metal ring contact points. That filter had markings for I think 7/8 of turn after gasket contact because of vibration issues on the S2000 motors at like 9000rpm. Yes you needed a filter cap to get it tight enough and getting it back off was definitely tool necessary.

You can see the contact point on both inner and outer rings.
1778372591097.webp
 
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