The truth about oil change intervals and analysis

I watched a bit of the video here and there. Have to totally disagree with Dave that the manufacturers won't care about long term reliability. Of course OEMs are concerned with the longevity of their products.
 
I watched a bit of the video here and there. Have to totally disagree with Dave that the manufacturers won't care about long term reliability. Of course OEMs are concerned with the longevity of their products.
I don't think they want the engine to fail just past the warranty, but they're not that concerned about longevity.

Long engine life today is mostly due to unleaded fuel, and computer controlled fuel and ignition. They're also being pushed by CAFE to produce less waste oil, and use less oil overall. So they "recommended" less frequent oil changes.
 
To everyone balking at what was said about 3,000 mile oil changes-all that was was him saying if he builds you an engine, it comes with a warranty but you must do 3,000 mile oil changes. Basically an insurance policy against negectful owners.

Gotta love the internet...a guy with 30+ years of experience building engines having a conversation with a guy who was the lubrication specialist for a nascar cup team.
Some person on a message board: "nah they are full of sh-"
 
To everyone balking at what was said about 3,000 mile oil changes-all that was was him saying if he builds you an engine, it comes with a warranty but you must do 3,000 mile oil changes. Basically an insurance policy against negectful owners.

Gotta love the internet...a guy with 30+ years of experience building engines having a conversation with a guy who was the lubrication specialist for a nascar cup team.
Some person on a message board: "nah they are full of sh-"
Nine pages in.

You are not the first to write this.

Who in all these pages said they are full of it, in your words? Because I haven't read this.
 
How much effect does cold weather have on start up wear? What is worse for start up wear, 0W-16 at -20F or 0W-40 at 65F?
Startup wear is one of those over-hyped worries on here. If it can be pumped the oil will flow. Just don’t lay on the throttle until the engine warms up.

In your example above both oils have a 0W winter rating. Both will pump down to very low temperatures.
 
Here you go! The ultimate auto maintenance regimen when it comes to motor oil.

First 5,000 miles - Get whatever specs your car requires. Let's assume 5W-20 motor oil because my scenario will completely go up in smoke (literally) with 0W-20 and thinner oils. You'll see why next.

Second 10,000 miles - Get a 4.6 Liter V8 in a Town Car or Crown Vic. Maybe a Y2K Explorer if you're really bored. Heck buy two! It's only money after all! Transfer the oil from the new car to old cars and change them once every two years. You're probably not going to drive it all that often anyhow.

Third 5,000 miles - Get a UOA and then dump the old oil back into your new car. It's only oil after all! Summon the demons in your HOA and BITOG by being a complete SOB with the DI engine in your DD.

Get the best oil you can from the get-go. The more descriptors the better. Pennzoil Pure Ultimate High Mileage Ultra Synthetic Motor Oil is probably the best right now. But watch out for Quaker State Ultra Ultimate Magnetic Durability All-Too Synthetic T9 Motor Oil. That's a close second based on the number of vowels.
 
Here you go! The ultimate auto maintenance regimen when it comes to motor oil.

First 5,000 miles - Get whatever specs your car requires. Let's assume 5W-20 motor oil because my scenario will completely go up in smoke (literally) with 0W-20 and thinner oils. You'll see why next.

Second 10,000 miles - Get a 4.6 Liter V8 in a Town Car or Crown Vic. Maybe a Y2K Explorer if you're really bored. Heck buy two! It's only money after all! Transfer the oil from the new car to old cars and change them once every two years. You're probably not going to drive it all that often anyhow.

Third 5,000 miles - Get a UOA and then dump the old oil back into your new car. It's only oil after all! Summon the demons in your HOA and BITOG by being a complete SOB with the DI engine in your DD.

Get the best oil you can from the get-go. The more descriptors the better. Pennzoil Pure Ultimate High Mileage Ultra Synthetic Motor Oil is probably the best right now. But watch out for Quaker State Ultra Ultimate Magnetic Durability All-Too Synthetic T9 Motor Oil. That's a close second based on the number of vowels.
Wait...what happens between 5000 and 20000 miles? There are 15000 unaccounted for miles in your plan?!
 
I found this video interesting:



I changed my mind on this subject and adopted the 3k mile strategy for my vehicles. Cheap oil & filter + shorter intervals keeps the engine cleaner with less wear.

We’ve seen that video. I don’t think many agree with your assertion about cheap oil. I prefer to use oil that meets specifications.

 
To everyone balking at what was said about 3,000 mile oil changes-all that was was him saying if he builds you an engine, it comes with a warranty but you must do 3,000 mile oil changes. Basically an insurance policy against negectful owners.

Gotta love the internet...a guy with 30+ years of experience building engines having a conversation with a guy who was the lubrication specialist for a nascar cup team.
Some person on a message board: "nah they are full of sh-"
“You must do 3,000 mile oil changes” - with what oil? Because I’m not using cheap oil in one of my twin turbo engines, even if I change it often, the cheap oil doesn’t meet a variety of important performance parameters and specifications.
 
“You must do 3,000 mile oil changes” - with what oil? Because I’m not using cheap oil in one of my twin turbo engines, even if I change it often, the cheap oil doesn’t meet a variety of important performance parameters and specifications.
Probably whatever his shop suggests? It wouldn't be in his best interest to suggest something that would risk his warranty coverage...
 
In which case, it won’t be cheap.

You’re responding to this post, and agreeing with him, except that he says to use cheap oil.

Post in thread 'The truth about oil change intervals and analysis'
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...ge-intervals-and-analysis.380988/post-6846651
Was he specifically talking about his performance engines that he builds for customers? Or just a general statement for the average joe with a regular daily driver?

Context is important.
 
Startup wear is one of those over-hyped worries on here. If it can be pumped the oil will flow. Just don’t lay on the throttle until the engine warms up.

In your example above both oils have a 0W winter rating. Both will pump down to very low temperatures.
But which one will pump better? 0W-16 at -20F... Or 0W-40 at 65F?
 
I watched a bit of the video here and there. Have to totally disagree with Dave that the manufacturers won't care about long term reliability. Of course OEMs are concerned with the longevity of their products.

I would agree if engineers ran the companies. But, they don’t, the beam counters run the companies. It’s all about share price, sales and profit.
 
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