The real deal - FRAM from their test lab with pic

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Originally Posted By: Jim Allen

How many time must we say this. I guess I will shout it:

THE REASON THE FRAM ULTRA HAS METAL ENDCAPS IS BECAUSE IT'S A LOFTED SYNTHETIC MEDIA. YOU MUST USE A WIRE BACKING FOR THIS BECAUSE THE SYN MEDIA HAS NO STRUCTURAL QUALITIES AT ALL. THE WIRE BACKING CANNOT BE BONDED TO FIBER ENDCAPS SATISFACTORILY. PLEATED CELLULOSE MEDIA IS SOAKED IN RESIN TO PROVIDE STRUCTURAL RIGIDITY OF THE PLEATED MEDIA AND DOESN'T NEED THE WIRE BACKING.

Get it, people?


lol.gif
... Yeah, I've said the same thing about a dozen times in various threads. So I'll quote you in RED BOLD just to say it again !!
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
If Fram has any inherent trouble, it's with their bottom end Extra Gaurd filters, some (NOT ALL) of which use less media and widely spaced pleats. These types of filters are pushing the envelope (media) structurally IMO. The steps up, the Tough Guard, are better in that regard and use a syn blend media... essentially a P1 with fiber endcaps.

Since SOME Fram Extra Guard filters (which part numbers exactly ? nobody really know) have less media and cost more than competitors (Purolator Classic, Motorcraft ...), there is no reason to buy Extra Guard.
 
Yep.
I also used Frams as a matter of preference for decades and never had a problem with them.
Most of the cars I've owned over quite a few years have had Frams on them for at least a couple of OCIs.
They're also sometimes quite the deal, like when a now defunct regional discount chain would have them on sale for three for five dollars.
They used to do the same with Exxon Superflow full syn quarts, so I used a lot of both up into the early 2000s.
 
I don't like fram spin on fiters and the report really did nothing to change my mind. I never really had a problem with the fiber end caps and don't understand why others do. However, I still don't like the tiny oil inlet holes and cheaply constructed BPV. The small inlet holes might be functionally OK but I want them larger, every other manufacturer makes them larger. A very thin coil spring snapped into a 4 clawed platic retainer and thin, flimsy nitrile for the BPV doesn't impress me. Again, it might work just fine but I prefer the construction of Purolator and Wix bottom can BPV.

Now add to the fact that I can get a purolator classic or napa silver for the same price or less than a fram OCOD, my mind is made up.

I DO like Fram cartirdge filters, why? There are no small inlet holes, no BPV and they are priced similar to other brand's cartridge filters. All of the usual quirks with Fram filters are gone and the price is right, I use them frequently.
 
Can't say I've ever been on the anti-fram boat, but there are just so many filters to choose from! You can't learn/teach if you never try something new...

I've used fram spin ons in the past with no issues at all. But I'm running a Fram Ultra cartridge in my Cobalt right now, and I have to say I am quite impressed with it. So much so that it might be one of my go to filters (along with Delco) for my cars. And the price is pretty good for what it is....
 
I used to use Fram oil filters for years until I cut one open.

After that I did not use them again.

I'm sure Fram oil fiters are fine, just that I can get better constructed oil fiters for the same or less money.

I have been an OEM oil filter kind of guy for years.

At the local Walmart I can get an OEM AC Delco oil filter for $4 or a Fram oil filter for $4. For the same price, I'll get the OEM oil filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Russ300H
Sorry, I just don't buy the glued end cap explanation. Anything that flexes for a number of cycles is going to tear at some point.


I've been thinking about this one lately. I've been wondering if they actually might have it right?

I've seen a lot of torn pleats with metal end caps. I wonder if the pulsation of the oil flow flexes the media and with fiber end caps, the media is allowed to move? In other words, it's less rigid and less susceptible to tearing? The material is allowed to stay within it's elastic limit through it's service life. The tears I've seen in metal end caps are always at the glued connection to the cap. Just a theory.

It's funny, I've hated Fram filters for years. Now, I'm wondering if they're actually geniuses?
 
Originally Posted By: AHC
Originally Posted By: Russ300H
Sorry, I just don't buy the glued end cap explanation. Anything that flexes for a number of cycles is going to tear at some point.


I've been thinking about this one lately. I've been wondering if they actually might have it right?

I've seen a lot of torn pleats with metal end caps. I wonder if the pulsation of the oil flow flexes the media and with fiber end caps, the media is allowed to move? In other words, it's less rigid and less susceptible to tearing? The material is allowed to stay within it's elastic limit through it's service life. The tears I've seen in metal end caps are always at the glued connection to the cap. Just a theory.

It's funny, I've hated Fram filters for years. Now, I'm wondering if they're actually geniuses?


Once I really started to learn about filters I came to the conclusion the design itself is sound, I wouldn't call it genius but it's a good design.

Having cut quite a few filters I believe the reason is the Fram media is simply tougher than most, a big part of the reason they can get away with using so little of it in the OCOD. It feels stronger and is harder to cut IMO than a comparable Puro for example. I still wish they'd use more of it though.

The Frams I've cut still had very rigid endcaps, I highly doubt there is any flexing going on.
 
Originally Posted By: AHC

I've seen a lot of torn pleats with metal end caps. I wonder if the pulsation of the oil flow flexes the media and with fiber end caps, the media is allowed to move? In other words, it's less rigid and less susceptible to tearing? The material is allowed to stay within it's elastic limit through it's service life. The tears I've seen in metal end caps are always at the glued connection to the cap. Just a theory.


I had a Purolator Classic tear a pleat at the seam. After inspection, my conclusion was that it tore because:

a) The pleat spacing was too great and the oil flow was trying to bend the pleat down flat, and

b) The media was pretty brittle and tore easily.

Here's a thread with more details and discussion.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...902#Post2260902
 
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
Its a well established fact that Fram's Orange Can of Death has trashed many a engine! I'll stick to my trusty Motorcraft FL-820-S in my Ford Modular V8's thank you!


Me Too! I love My f-350 too much!

What is missing in this report/article is the differing design styles which make some filters better for certain vehicles. Oil passage sizes, WHERE THE ADBV is located, WHAT THE FLUID WASHES OVER WHEN the bypass is activated, things like this are why I don't use fram.

I don't care WHY they use cardboard end caps, just that they choose to use this over other higher quality materials. Sure, they need flex as they stated, but there exists other options for achieving this. The only reason those are not put into production is their bottom line. Only the consumer suffers from cheaper materials used in construction, they just DESIGNED the filter as cheap as possible, and they have to use cardboard to rectify their "flaw".



JC
 
Wow ... dual cans. Wonder if that's a stock bypass filter setup?
 
My big deal with Fram orange can is that I used to store my filters in the garage. It was fairly moist in there and they would rust faster than any other filters. Other filters seemed to have some sort of rust resistances - perhaps dipped in something to resist corrosion?
 
I believe its stock, but just think about how much oil gets all over that nice looking engine when you take those filters off. Must take some time to clean all of it up so it looks good again.

ROD
 
Originally Posted By: rrounds
I believe its stock, but just think about how much oil gets all over that nice looking engine when you take those filters off. Must take some time to clean all of it up so it looks good again.

ROD


Just gotta punch a hole in the top of the filter when the oil is hot and let it drain for an hour before removing. I've used that trick on a couple vehicles that have the filter mounted vertical with base down. Works well.
 
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