I hear you, it's the flavor of the month. I think the cleaning comparisons they are making are the off the shelf oils. HPL can clean very well.
The problems with GDI
- Thread starter burbguy82
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PUP will run clean but can't clean piston deposits like R&P.
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- Feb 4, 2023
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- 122
i wonder if it just has a higher percentage of esters for cleaning
What is R&P?
Patman
Staff member
Valvoline Restore & Protect
Put some catch cans in line between the PCVs and the manifold.
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- Apr 16, 2024
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- 202
One of the first things I did, sure it won’t catch everything but it’s definitely better than nothing.
Wow, going by the VOA of the Restore and Protect, the 5W-20 seems more robust then the 0W-20. Magnesium, Zinc and Moly specifically.
Still not sure what's in it to allow the restore part to work. I believe the protect part.
Still not sure what's in it to allow the restore part to work. I believe the protect part.
I did on mine, hooked up both side to it. Filled it up in about 10000. A mishimoto unit. Gm says that they "fixed this issue with the L8T, which is another lie.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
The base oil of the 0w20 beats the 5w20. It's usually universal across the industry. That's why you saw an uptick in the additives of the 5w20.
Who here has serviced their air-oil separator? If so what was its condition? I have a 2014 Mazda3 coming up on 60k miles. I need to change the coolant soon and should at least check this too while I'm down there. I'll add that in the service manual diagram the air/oil separator looks too small to be effective.
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On the new GM 6.6 L8T, hte issue with gases reentering the intake was suppose to be solved with some engineering under the valve covers. This was one of the main selling points to me, when I bought one in 2020. GM, full well knowing the issues of GDI and valve coking............
This was not the case. Whatever they did to stop the issue of evaporation and recirculation back into the intake did not and does not work.
I installed a catch can, on one side of the engine, driver side is i remember correctly, with a top of the line Mishimoto catch can, inline of the PCV system. After 3000 or so miles, it was nearly full, as witness by the sight tube on the side.
I think more should be incorporating this into the design as I think it would help with the coking issue, and the subsequent and very costly repair of a system that should not even be an issue on a modern vehicle.
You separator, should it be working is no doubt full, slap full. It should be a part of normal maintanance, just like an oil change.
I can only speak for my own circumstance
I agree with your best practice GDI engine maintenance suggestions TripleSeven . Conversely , say the best vehicle owner follows their owners manual to the letter - where are they going to find such useful GDI engine maintainence tips you reference ? … They aren’t. The auto makers do not want to show any additional maintenance in the OM that will increase cost of ownership (i.e. using 93 octane gas , CRC intake valve cleaner every 12 K miles, using higher quality oils , lower 3,000 mile OCI’s , etc.) as it’s bad for new vehicle sales and most GDI engine owners are not even aware of such GDI engine ownership best practices (it’s unfortunate).
Shorter OCI’s (3,500 - 5,000 miles with typical mixed driving) with a GDI engine are preferred due to the soot that GDI engines produce and end up in the oil . Oil filters don’t do much to remove soot which is abrasive and in higher concentrations can add wear to timing chains.
Using higher octane gas will do nothing for IVD of GDI engines! First of all, the fuel never even touches the back side of the valves where the buildup occurs. Secondly, when using Top Tier fuels as recommended by a lot of manufactures these days, ALL octane grades of fuel MUST meet Top Tier standards.
What gas stations do not offer the proper fuel required for modern engines? All the fuel in a given area, come from the same place. BP does not have their own gas storage area, nor does Shell. One refuelling truck goes to a shell, a BP a Sunoco, a 711 and a QuikTrip.
I know. However, they all have their own proprietary detergents which are added to the fuel upon delivery.
There is EPA level and then there is Top Tier levels......
https://www.aaa.com/AAA/common/AAR/files/Fuel-Quality-Full-Report.pdf
So you are saying that they just pour in the detergents? I though one of the issues of modern fuel is the lack of detergents.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
It's all about the additives that are added.
There's a BP at 15 Mile and a No Name station across the street. The No Name also states it gets the BP hauler to serve them. But what's inside that hauler's tank at No Name is a different, lesser additive blend.
Some vehicles get by on cheaper blends. Others need more. Some vehicles show rough idles at 20k - some don't using the same exact gas. Do a 20k experiment at each. That will give you a better answer to their ratings, as seen fit by your specific vehicle.
I've been using Top-Tier for over 25 years now. If BP doesn't want to pay for the Top-Tier Licensing, then I'll shop for gas elsewhere.
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