The oil didnt matter....cold start rattle back again on Ecoboost engine!

[BISCUT]

Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Originally Posted by 4WD
Ok but my family and my friends owned those piston slappers up to 400k … (wheel bearing only)
My last one was beaten hard for 8 years and never saw the dealership … no oil consumption …
Our current 5.3's consume no oil and the 1.4L turbo is at 120k as is the Fusion … neither use oil.
BTW … the 5.3's are very quiet engines … piston jets may of helped …
The Tundra has a consumption issue … gasoline …


I dont buy a truck to worry about fuel mileage. Tundra is the best built half ton on the market. My ‘03 Sierra sounded like a diesel and used a quart every 800 miles by 60,000 miles and got worse. My Tundra doesn't burn a drop between oil changes.

 

[PWMDMD]

Assuming it's a reasonable oil to use (viscosity and certs) does the oil EVER really matter?

 

[BLND1]

Originally Posted by BISCUT
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Originally Posted by 4WD
Ok but my family and my friends owned those piston slappers up to 400k … (wheel bearing only)
My last one was beaten hard for 8 years and never saw the dealership … no oil consumption …
Our current 5.3's consume no oil and the 1.4L turbo is at 120k as is the Fusion … neither use oil.
BTW … the 5.3's are very quiet engines … piston jets may of helped …
The Tundra has a consumption issue … gasoline …


I dont buy a truck to worry about fuel mileage. Tundra is the best built half ton on the market. My ‘03 Sierra sounded like a diesel and used a quart every 800 miles by 60,000 miles and got worse. My Tundra doesn't burn a drop between oil changes.

Hey now - the Tundra was probably the best truck on the market in 2007 when it was introduced....

 

[caprice_2nv]

I've heard of rear end issues at the garages I worked at, plus they're a pain in the arse to change the oil on (an amsoil dealer here in the Kingston Ontario area used to bring his in with supplied amsoil) we changed it for the normal price despite having to remove the skid plate and cartridge filter..
The oil always came out black and chunky at 7k miles. No uoa's done. Do you think it's still good when it's chunky?

 

[OilUzer]

Op,
Have you tried a different oil (with more ester, moly, etc.) to see if it helps?
Not saying it would fix the problem but since you are in NY, i would try a syn, preferably a 0W in addition to the above (ester, moly) and see if it helps.

One of my cars has much less and shorter startup noise with a 5W syn-blend vs. 10W dino of the same brand even though I am well within the W spec (i.e. not cold here at all). Maybe the syn-blend has different add pack and has nothing to do with the viscosity (5W vs. 10) ... but definitely much less startup noise.

 

[WhizkidTN]

Originally Posted by Navi
The problem with Ecoboost is it shears and/or dilutes the 5W30 down to a 5W20 oil. It is the same problem as Subaru turbos. Thus I am more comfortable with a W40.

Im probably going to a 0W40 for winter and 5w40 for all other months.


I had the same problem with my '12 turbo Optima while running M1 0W-40 oil (both FS and pre-FS oil). By Polaris/Blackstone UOAs, it doesn't do this nearly as bad running Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil, so I switched. The turbo GDI engines run with over 5% fuel dilution and adds to beating up any oil used. I keep to a 4K mile OCI as a result.

 

[ZiTS]

Regarding comments about the oil filter being/not being the problem due to the ADBV -

My 3.5L Ecoboost (2016) has the oil filter mounted completely vertical, where it hangs from the bottom of the engine, Therefore, the ADBV design is irrelevant because the oil CAN'T drain out.

Did the oil filter position change on the Gen 2 Eco's? If not, it would seem the filter should be ruled out as having any part of this issue.

 

[nlife]

Originally Posted by ZiTS
Regarding comments about the oil filter being/not being the problem due to the ADBV -

My 3.5L Ecoboost (2016) has the oil filter mounted completely vertical, where it hangs from the bottom of the engine, Therefore, the ADBV design is irrelevant because the oil CAN'T drain out.

Did the oil filter position change on the Gen 2 Eco's? If not, it would seem the filter should be ruled out as having any part of this issue.




Yes the position of the filter appears to have changed. The oil filter on my 2018 3.5L is on the front of the engine and is closer to, but not quite horizontal.

 

[Navi]

The valve is present on every filter out there. Its there on the Purolators and also on Champ Labs. I would only use a high end Purolator or one from Champ Labs performance line like a Mobil 1, K&N or Royal Purple. Purolator makes the Motorcraft filter and is essentially a Pure One.

I would never use a Fram because of its reputation.

I dont expect the dealership to say its the filter. My expectation is a few weeks of repair replacing the vct units.

 

[wtd]

The sound didn't last very long but I could hear it. I'm one of those people where stuff like that bothers me when the vehicle is new but the longer I have it, the less I care.

I've owned my 98 chevy K1500 with the 5.7L since new and it eventually developed piston slap on cold start ups. It bothered me in the beginning but now I just except it's the way it is and I've not noticed any decrease in performance or problems. It now has about 139,000 miles on it.

My 98 chevy K3500 with the 7.4L bought in 2007 with 94,000 miles on it, has piston slap when cold and even after it's warmed up has a rattly sound to the engine. It is not a quiet engine at all. It still runs good oil pressure, has good power and has about 119,000 miles on it.

These days I don't worry about the engine noises in either and if either breaks down with engine problems, they will be fixed, sold, or junked depending on cost or what else may be wrong.

Hopefully the dealer will fix yours so that it doesn't bother you any longer.

 

[caprice_2nv]

Originally Posted by wtd
The sound didn't last very long but I could hear it. I'm one of those people where stuff like that bothers me when the vehicle is new but the longer I have it, the less I care.

I've owned my 98 chevy K1500 with the 5.7L since new and it eventually developed piston slap on cold start ups. It bothered me in the beginning but now I just except it's the way it is and I've not noticed any decrease in performance or problems. It now has about 139,000 miles on it.

My 98 chevy K3500 with the 7.4L bought in 2007 with 94,000 miles on it, has piston slap when cold and even after it's warmed up has a rattly sound to the engine. It is not a quiet engine at all. It still runs good oil pressure, has good power and has about 119,000 miles on it.

These days I don't worry about the engine noises in either and if either breaks down with engine problems, they will be fixed, sold, or junked depending on cost or what else may be wrong.

Hopefully the dealer will fix yours so that it doesn't bother you any longer.


I would be more worried about timing chain rattle than piston slap.

 

[Loobit]

I'd like to say to a certain degree that noisy cold starts are normal in many engines, especially in VVT overhead cam engines. There are so many oil passages the cold, thick oil will have to travel completely through. When temps dip below 30° F here in Tucson, my Toyota Tacoma 3.4 makes all kinds of cold start noise, and that engine doesn't even have VVT or a chain. The idle is also lower than usual since it's pumping that cold oil, which is a 5w-30. Also keep in mind it's a mechanically sound engine that runs great and doesn't even burn oil.

 

[bbhero]

In this case like many others... There is nothing that about 10 pounds of C-4, a radio controlled detonator, and a lot of distance cannot fix here. . .

 

[BigShug681]

I see we are making non issues into issues again

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

When did Lincoln start installing diesel engines in the Navigator?

 

[Navi]

Ive owned both the 2016 Suburban and now the 2018 Navigator. Both had problems. The best way to deal with American vehicles is avoid the first 3 model years. You will have a better time.

In this situation it looks like Ford has their head around it with a recent service bulletin and changes on the assembly line in April...but its taken about 2 years.

Yes my engine is now sounding diesel like along with the rattle. It will now go back to the service department.

Lets stop the bickering about Ford vs Chevy. Fact is its a big risk buying first few model years. Yes Toyota is a gold standard of reliability...etc etc...It is what it is...

 

[wtd]

Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by wtd
The sound didn't last very long but I could hear it. I'm one of those people where stuff like that bothers me when the vehicle is new but the longer I have it, the less I care.

I've owned my 98 chevy K1500 with the 5.7L since new and it eventually developed piston slap on cold start ups. It bothered me in the beginning but now I just except it's the way it is and I've not noticed any decrease in performance or problems. It now has about 139,000 miles on it.

My 98 chevy K3500 with the 7.4L bought in 2007 with 94,000 miles on it, has piston slap when cold and even after it's warmed up has a rattly sound to the engine. It is not a quiet engine at all. It still runs good oil pressure, has good power and has about 119,000 miles on it.

These days I don't worry about the engine noises in either and if either breaks down with engine problems, they will be fixed, sold, or junked depending on cost or what else may be wrong.

Hopefully the dealer will fix yours so that it doesn't bother you any longer.


I would be more worried about timing chain rattle than piston slap.

The K1500's engine is quiet after the initial piston slap. No noise near the front of the engine at all. The noise in the K3500's engine sound more like bottom end noise and no noise at the timing chain cover using a mechanics stethoscope.

 

[caprice_2nv]

Originally Posted by wtd
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by wtd
The sound didn't last very long but I could hear it. I'm one of those people where stuff like that bothers me when the vehicle is new but the longer I have it, the less I care.

I've owned my 98 chevy K1500 with the 5.7L since new and it eventually developed piston slap on cold start ups. It bothered me in the beginning but now I just except it's the way it is and I've not noticed any decrease in performance or problems. It now has about 139,000 miles on it.

My 98 chevy K3500 with the 7.4L bought in 2007 with 94,000 miles on it, has piston slap when cold and even after it's warmed up has a rattly sound to the engine. It is not a quiet engine at all. It still runs good oil pressure, has good power and has about 119,000 miles on it.

These days I don't worry about the engine noises in either and if either breaks down with engine problems, they will be fixed, sold, or junked depending on cost or what else may be wrong.

Hopefully the dealer will fix yours so that it doesn't bother you any longer.


I would be more worried about timing chain rattle than piston slap.

The K1500's engine is quiet after the initial piston slap. No noise near the front of the engine at all. The noise in the K3500's engine sound more like bottom end noise and no noise at the timing chain cover using a mechanics stethoscope.


I've never heard timing chain noise from a small block Chevy (or big block). I know I've heard that the older ones with nylon gears (like my 305) will wear a hole through the timing cover before you ever hear a noise. The first sign is a major oil leak.

This guys engine maybe in more danger if others have experienced timing chain failure like he is saying. Completely different engine design. I'm not worried about the piston slap on my small block Chevy and I check the amount of timing chain slop every now and then and before a long trip.

 

[super20dan]

yet another reason to avoid the ecoboost. if there is a better v8 ever made than the chevy LS v8 I would like to know what it is.

 

[Navi]

They will eventually get the Ecoboost right but not right now. I would say 2021 Navigator a better bet...2021 F150 a better bet.