The Jeep needs brakes again... my $9 pad review

[14Accent]

Threw my WJ on the hoist at work this afternoon while things were slow, as she was well overdue for an oil change and checkup. Everything looked good for a neglected, well used, 250k mile truck (topped off coolant, tire pressure was off on all 4 corners, crankcase was ~1qt low). I even had time to pull a spark plug for the first time since I've owned her. I fully expected to find well worn Champion copper core's, as would have been spec'd by the OEM, so you can imagine my delight upon seeing darn near pristine NGK Iridium IX's! Those plugs will be staying in for a LONG time.

Back to my point: the brakes. I did find the front pads to be near the 4mm mark, which in my book means replacement time. I installed pads and rotors immediately after purchase, using the CHEAPEST RA parts money could buy. A rotor is a rotor, but pads are another story. I recall paying $9 for a "wholesale closeout" set of semi-metallic pads, the very set that now needs replacement.

To be fair: I have ZERO complaints. For the price, they performed their function without complaint. Noisy? Absolutely. Dusty? You bet. When installed on a $250 beater, the above traits mean nothing. They had great bite, little fade, and seemed un-phased by temperature.

They're being replaced by a set of PCD945 ceramic pads, chosen once again for their absolutely rock bottom price. $14.47. I don't plan on touching the rotors, they haven't glazed and the truck stops straight and smooth.

*EDIT* Completely forgot! This is an OIL forum, after all... I used our house semi-syn 10w30 and an FVP filter for the oil change. Junk filter, I know. Still perfectly fine for an old dinosaur.

 

[JayhawkRoy]

So, how many miles did you get out of the $9 pads?

 

[14Accent]

So, how many miles did you get out of the $9 pads?

I forgot to mention that! I don't have an exact number, but it was right around 25k. My WJ does have the factory Akebono caliper and pad upgrade that replaced the under-sized Teves setup that came on the '99-early '01 units. Rotors are the same size, but the calipers and pads are much larger.

I don't drive my truck easy, either. It sees lots of Minneapolis traffic, heavy braking, you name it. To get the performance and life out of a $9 set of pads is beyond impressive in my eyes.

 

[atikovi]

I recall paying $9 for a "wholesale closeout" set of semi-metallic pads,

They weren't $9 pads. They were more like $30 pads closeout priced at $9.

 

[Nick1994]

10w30 in Minnesota winter? Ouch.

I think I would have spent the extra $10 for some sanity with quieter pads

 

[bullwinkle]

Sounds like the super-cheap MKD numbered AZ pads I used to use (before I knew any better)-noisy as heck the first couple times cold,heated up & they were fine. Lifetime warranty, keep your receipt!

 

[01rangerxl]

Sometimes you get lucky on a RA closeout. I have not had good experiences with dirt cheap pads in general. I put some $19.99 NAPA pads on my '02 Ranger (maybe Profomer?) once and the backing plate separated on one at around 10K miles.

For a good but not premium brake pad, the current NAPA Silent Guard is my go to. I've used them a lot at work, and front and back on my 97 Explorer. Totally quiet, no weird pedal feel, stops great. In my experience going from the $20 to the just under $40 price range can make a ton of difference.

 

[D60]

For trucks I don't care much about I sometimes also get a kick out of trying inexpensive pads. I recently ordered a set of $13 Amazon Warehouse Deals rear pads for our '08 F150....I think they were Centrics. They appear unmolested and undamaged.

I actually haven't had time to install them. Will I regret it? Maybe!

 

[dishdude]

10w30 in Minnesota winter? Ouch.

I think I would have spent the extra $10 for some sanity with quieter pads

Not a problem, even ten degrees below zero it'll flow. Used to run that in everything especially those old 4.0s (we had a bunch in the family) and my '95 neon, a cold snap around -10F would come through and they'd fire right up like it was 70 degrees out. The PS pump was never happy, the first couple of seconds they'd make some funky sounds.

 

[Nick1994]

Not a problem, even ten degrees below zero it'll flow. Used to run that in everything especially those old 4.0s (we had a bunch in the family) and my '95 neon, a cold snap around -10F would come through and they'd fire right up like it was 70 degrees out. The PS pump was never happy, the first couple of seconds they'd make some funky sounds.

I'm changing the oil in the Camry this weekend. Winter prep.

Draining the 15w40 HDEO for some 10w30 water

 

[14Accent]

Definitely not worried about the 10w30 fill, it's only 10/26. By the time it gets REALLY cold, it'll be due for another LOF. I put around 200-250 miles a week on my truck, 100 of which is just my M-F commute. Using that math, I'll need an oil change in 12 weeks, which puts me right at the end of January. I'll switch to 5W30 HM at that time.

I've never had an issue starting in the winter regardless of viscosity. However, as mentioned above, the power steering pump is NEVER happy nor is the transmission at sub-zero temps.

 

[Donald]

I had a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It had the upgraded Akebono caliper (larger than the Teves) but even with Akebono pads they would not go all that long before there was vibration similar to a warped rotor.

On the other hand I had a 1999 Dodge Ram diesel 2500. Could throw on any pad or rotor and the brakes were always great and last a long time.