The industry is WRONG: your best tires belong up front

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I've encountered more times than I care to remember that idea from supposed tire professionals that if you have one pair of tires that has much deeper tread that the other pair, that the better pair belongs in the rear. This is dangerously misguided advice, and I'd like to explain why.

The thinking that underpins the myth is the idea that oversteer is safer than understeer, so you want more traction in the rear. But there are many reasons that putting your best tires in the rear is actually more dangerous.

DRY Traction
Most vehicles are front wheel drive. Because front wheel drive vehicles use the front tires to do all of the acceleration, most of the steering and most of the braking (due to weight transfer) , FWD vehicles wear the tires much faster up front.

SO we encounter the first flaw in the myth of best-tires-on-the-rear: you want your best tires in the position where they can contribute the most to the total vehicle traction. CLEARLY that is up front for a front drive vehicle. For AWD and RWD vehicles, it's still true because braking traction matters many times more for safety than does acceleration traction.

A modern vehicle with front weight bias and front drive will have much shorter braking distances, better cornering traction, and better accelerating traction if the tires with the best traction are up FRONT where they can contribute the most.

WET Traction
You especially want your fresher tires up front in wet conditions where hydroplaning is a risk. Hydroplaning is primarily a straight-line highway traction risk. The rear tires are following the fronts. Which means the water load on the rear tires is the remnant of what the fronts leave behind. Having good tires in the rear makes hydroplaning more likely when a loss of steering control results from the front tires hydroplaning.

If only the rear hydroplanes, a FWD car is self-correcting because the front is pulling the rear back into line. If the rear hydroplanes in a rwd or AWD vehicle, you can correct any trajectory deviation because you still have steering authority.

Hydroplaning up front is entirely uncorrectable. If your front tires lose traction and change the vehicle's trajectory, the driver has no steering authority to correct whatsoever. The additional traction in the rear is entirely wasted.

Winter Traction
In snow and ice, you need all of the wet traction advantages of having best tires up front-- steering traction primarily. But you also need the better tires up front primarily for braking (as you have a front weight bias and more ground contact pressure), and for acceleration on slick roads. If you lose cornering traction on snow or ice, oversteer is easily corrected. Understeer renders the car a ballistic projectile immune to control inputs.


Conclusion

The tire industry says the best tires go on the rear because some ignorant lawyers who don't know physics came up with that idea. They probably saw some data and misinterpreted it. The probably saw data showing the overcorrection/oversteer and loss of control was cited in a majority of accidents and decided that making the driver LESS empowered was the solution, thereby increasing the total number of accidents while altering the proportion of them due to oversteer/overcorrection.

This is poor reasoning. Obviously we want FEWER accidents and we want losses of traction to be correctible. The solution isn't making the driver into a helpless passenger on an understeering ballistic projectile, but rather to allow the the driver to correct the the vehicle's loss of traction within overall higher traction limits. This of course comes with the possibility that bad drivers will overcorrect. But they may not have had to correct at all if not for the loss of control resulting from less total traction.

EVERY race car is tuned to slightly favor steady state oversteer because oversteer gives a larger total performance envelope. The same logic applies even more so to the street where full throttle acceleration traction is not important and maximim braking and steering traction is even more critical as a contribution to the whole.

Your best tires belong up front in every street car in all weather in every driveline-RWD, FWD, AWD; summer, winter, spring, fall.
 
Here's a good example of what the "experts" typically produce:

https://www.robsonforensic.com/articles/tire-placement-expert-witness


But there are many problems with this breakdown:


"Most drivers are able to maintain or regain control in understeer without crashing" This is asserted without qualification. It's also true of mild oversteer — but the article doesn't apply the same charitable standard to both failure modes. Asymmetric framing.


"The driver's natural reaction to ease off the accelerator is sufficient to regain traction" This is actually the correct instinct for both understeer and oversteer in a FWD car. Lifting off is appropriate either way. They're using this to minimize understeer severity while simultaneously claiming oversteer requires trained reflexes. They can't have it both ways.


"FWD offers superior traction under acceleration" True but completely irrelevant to the safety argument. Acceleration traction is not a crash-avoidance function. This is filler that subtly conflates traction types.


"Much of the misconception involves FWD tasking front tires with steering, accelerating, and braking" They correctly identify the laypeople's reasoning — then dismiss it as misconception without actually rebutting it. They never address braking bias or the binary nature of hydroplane loss. They just assert it's wrong.


"Oversteer results in side/rear impacts which are more severe than frontal impacts"This is the most brazenly circular argument in the piece. They're saying: oversteer produces worse crash outcomes, therefore prevent oversteer. But if understeer is unrecoverable — as in front hydroplane — the frontal impact protection they're citing as a benefit becomes the outcome. You don't get credit for surviving the crash you caused.


The understeer recovery description is a highway hydroplane scenario They describe understeer as a vehicle traveling "closer to a straight line compared with steering input." On a highway in a hydroplane event, traveling in a straight line off your intended path is the crash. There's no correction available. They've described the failure mode as if it's a near-miss.


No mention of braking bias anywhere in the document. Not once. The single largest determinant of stopping distance — where the braking load is carried — is simply absent from the analysis.


It reads like a legal brief, not an engineering analysis. The conclusion was chosen first.
 
WET Traction
You especially want your fresher tires up front in wet conditions where hydroplaning is a risk. Hydroplaning is primarily a straight-line highway traction risk. The rear tires are following the fronts. Which means the water load on the rear tires is the remnant of what the fronts leave behind. Having good tires in the rear makes hydroplaning more likely when a loss of steering control results from the front tires hydroplaning.

If only the rear hydroplanes, a FWD car is self-correcting because the front is pulling the rear back into line. If the rear hydroplanes in a rwd or AWD vehicle, you can correct any trajectory deviation because you still have steering authority.

Hydroplaning up front is entirely uncorrectable. If your front tires lose traction and change the vehicle's trajectory, the driver has no steering authority to correct whatsoever. The additional traction in the rear is entirely wasted.
Right on, 100%! I know this because I have driven in torrential rains many times the past 40+ years. The experts are wrong. The rear wheels track exactly in the voided path of the front wheels.
 
In the late 70s and early 80s, the wife and I commuted from the far west burbs of Indianapolis to the downtown area. In the winter, we ran snow tires (Gislaved) on the front only of our Subaru and Volkswagen econoboxes (FWD). Never noticed anything problematic with that arrangement. What we did notice was fantastic traction and the ability to maintain steering in the snow. No issues in the dry either. With that anecdotal evidence in the back of my mind, I've questioned the logic of current industry recommendations regarding tire placement.
 
I've encountered more times than I care to remember that idea from supposed tire professionals that if you have one pair of tires that has much deeper tread that the other pair, that the better pair belongs in the rear. This is dangerously misguided advice, and I'd like to explain why.

The thinking that underpins the myth is the idea that oversteer is safer than understeer, so you want more traction in the rear. But there are many reasons that putting your best tires in the rear is actually more dangerous.

DRY Traction
Most vehicles are front wheel drive. Because front wheel drive vehicles use the front tires to do all of the acceleration, most of the steering and most of the braking (due to weight transfer) , FWD vehicles wear the tires much faster up front.

SO we encounter the first flaw in the myth of best-tires-on-the-rear: you want your best tires in the position where they can contribute the most to the total vehicle traction. CLEARLY that is up front for a front drive vehicle. For AWD and RWD vehicles, it's still true because braking traction matters many times more for safety than does acceleration traction.

A modern vehicle with front weight bias and front drive will have much shorter braking distances, better cornering traction, and better accelerating traction if the tires with the best traction are up FRONT where they can contribute the most.

WET Traction
You especially want your fresher tires up front in wet conditions where hydroplaning is a risk. Hydroplaning is primarily a straight-line highway traction risk. The rear tires are following the fronts. Which means the water load on the rear tires is the remnant of what the fronts leave behind. Having good tires in the rear makes hydroplaning more likely when a loss of steering control results from the front tires hydroplaning.

If only the rear hydroplanes, a FWD car is self-correcting because the front is pulling the rear back into line. If the rear hydroplanes in a rwd or AWD vehicle, you can correct any trajectory deviation because you still have steering authority.

Hydroplaning up front is entirely uncorrectable. If your front tires lose traction and change the vehicle's trajectory, the driver has no steering authority to correct whatsoever. The additional traction in the rear is entirely wasted.

Winter Traction
In snow and ice, you need all of the wet traction advantages of having best tires up front-- steering traction primarily. But you also need the better tires up front primarily for braking (as you have a front weight bias and more ground contact pressure), and for acceleration on slick roads. If you lose cornering traction on snow or ice, oversteer is easily corrected. Understeer renders the car a ballistic projectile immune to control inputs.


Conclusion

The tire industry says the best tires go on the rear because some ignorant lawyers who don't know physics came up with that idea. They probably saw some data and misinterpreted it. The probably saw data showing the overcorrection/oversteer and loss of control was cited in a majority of accidents and decided that making the driver LESS empowered was the solution, thereby increasing the total number of accidents while altering the proportion of them due to oversteer/overcorrection.

This is poor reasoning. Obviously we want FEWER accidents and we want losses of traction to be correctible. The solution isn't making the driver into a helpless passenger on an understeering ballistic projectile, but rather to allow the the driver to correct the the vehicle's loss of traction within overall higher traction limits. This of course comes with the possibility that bad drivers will overcorrect. But they may not have had to correct at all if not for the loss of control resulting from less total traction.

EVERY race car is tuned to slightly favor steady state oversteer because oversteer gives a larger total performance envelope. The same logic applies even more so to the street where full throttle acceleration traction is not important and maximim braking and steering traction is even more critical as a contribution to the whole.

Your best tires belong up front in every street car in all weather in every driveline-RWD, FWD, AWD; summer, winter, spring, fall.
Do you have some track time? Lapping or autocross? What is fast there, isn't a car setup you want to DD with even if you are a "good driver", IMO. For fun at autocross, I've put R-comps on the front of my fwd car with all seasons on the back, and it was great fun, but there's no way I'd drive that set up on the road.
On a track, a bit of oversteer is usually quicker, but that's a "skilled" driver who is ready for it, in the rain though you might find a bit of understeer allows the driver to be more aggressive as recovery is dead easy, you can drive more on the limit because going over slightly isn't a problem.
Understeer is much easier to recover from, especially if you are a "unskilled" driver(never been on a track, or done autocross, and doesn't practice emergency maneuvers regularly), so I would rather most people have the bad tires on the front, if there is a significant difference in grip.

On a gradual turn at 60+mph, in a surprise hard braking event, if the back end steps out, most people are going to have a hard time keeping it in their lane. If the car understeers, the ABS can still slow the car down and it takes a predictable path.

I have dodged a car in the snow, coming towards me on a curve on a 55mph hwy, and they lost the back end, and they fishtailed a couple times before finally looping out into their ditch, but it was anyone's guess where they were going to end up, and all I could do was just threshold brake for a while scrubbing speed to give me some time and/or reduce impact, trying not to spin myself, so at least I could do some steering if I could figure out where to go... I've also had the same thing happen where the oncoming car understeered into my lane and it was relatively easy/less stress to just take the to the shoulder, as their path was predictable.

Aquaplaning is its own thing, I do maybe 3-400 hrs of driving every year, and I think I might get 1hr that its raining hard enough that I'm worried about aquaplaning at 60-65mph? And the solution is just slowing down slightly, and if I'm not sure how close I am to losing contact on the front, I just hit the gas going through a deep spot to see if the front tires will spin up, so I don't really worry about that.

If someone just hasn't rotated their tires in 30k miles and the fronts are at 6/32 and the rears are at 10/32, then I don't have a problem with putting the 10/32 on the front and the 6/32 on the back. But putting new tires on the front that you expect to grip significantly better that the rears in a common driving condition, isn't a good idea. So no snow tires on the front only. Or having 10 yr old 4/32 all seasons on the rear with a grippy all-season performance tire on the front.
 
Right on, 100%! I know this because I have driven in torrential rains many times the past 40+ years. The experts are wrong. The rear wheels track exactly in the voided path of the front wheels.
They do until they don't. If you hit a curve either on purpose or in an emergency and have false confidence which goaded you into going faster than the rears can handle all by themselves, you get a surprise spin out.

That said if you halfway maintain your car, maybe 10/32 in front, 6/32 back at the absolute worst, the fronts will wear to match the rears. Advice I've read is to keep everything within 2/32 which is not a challenge.
 
"The driver's natural reaction to ease off the accelerator is sufficient to regain traction" This is actually the correct instinct for both understeer and oversteer in a FWD car. Lifting off is appropriate either way.

This is only true for very modern FWD cars with all the stability control nannies on. FWD inherently wants to oversteer more under throttle lift, as anyone who has ever raced FWD on loose surfaces will tell you
 
The OP frames understeer as a near-binary phenomenon. In the context of hydroplaning, this may be fair - but hydroplaning isn't the only cause of control loss out there. To take the same approach to the rears, imagine them as caster wheels on a shopping cart. A bit too much steering input through the superior front (steer) tires, and the back end of that vehicle is coming around in a hurry. Certainly this is hyperbole, but that's my point.

As others have pointed out, there is a difference between a driver with track experience vs. the average operator of a driving appliance on public roads; this makes for huge delta in oversteer management.

Hydroplaning is bad, but so is control loss on asphalt with loose grit, gravel roads, ice and snow, etc.
 
My problem with installing a pair of new tires on the rear of a front-wheel drive car is how are they ever going to wear with regard to rotations? The "good" tires will end up on the front 6,000 miles later anyway, so why not just put them up there to begin with so they can begin wearing? What's the point in wearing the old fronts for another 6,000 mi and THEN rotating the new ones up front?
I don't know about you guys, but the rear wheels on my front-wheel drive cars experience nearly zero wear according to my eyes and depth gauge. I always put new tires on the front so that I can resume my normal rotation schedule.
 
In the late 70s and early 80s, the wife and I commuted from the far west burbs of Indianapolis to the downtown area. In the winter, we ran snow tires (Gislaved) on the front only of our Subaru and Volkswagen econoboxes (FWD). Never noticed anything problematic with that arrangement. What we did notice was fantastic traction and the ability to maintain steering in the snow. No issues in the dry either. With that anecdotal evidence in the back of my mind, I've questioned the logic of current industry recommendations regarding tire placement.
Yea I did that on my '83 Civic, only bought 2 because dad always only had 2 (his were RWD). Shop recommended 4 but my money so they put 2 Gislaved's up front. First weekend, light snow covered roads, I spun in front of a semi who luckily missed me. The all seasons with a lot of tread on the back just let go in same conditions.

I replaced them and got the matching Gislaved's for the rear. No issues after that. That was almost 40 years ago. I now get 4 winters for each car, my 3 season are matching and almost always within 3/32" front to back, corner to corner. When they get lower, replace all 4, repeat as needed.
 
FWD vehicles wear the tires much faster up front.
That's why I like the new tires on the back when buying a set of two. The tires always wear evenly across the tread when on the back.

FWD cars always wear the front tires on the outer edge no matter how straight the alignment is. It's a frustrating mystery.
 
That's why I like the new tires on the back when buying a set of two. The tires always wear evenly across the tread when on the back.

FWD cars always wear the front tires on the outer edge no matter how straight the alignment is. It's a frustrating mystery.
Mine wear almost perfectly across. I do check air pressure weekly and depth with gauge at least monthly and adjust pressure if needed. Rotations are normally in the spring and fall at winter tire change over. That's on my usage scenario. If I drove many more miles that may be different.
 
Mine wear almost perfectly across. I do check air pressure weekly and depth with gauge at least monthly and adjust pressure if needed. Rotations are normally in the spring and fall at winter tire change over. That's on my usage scenario. If I drove many more miles that may be different.
I never rotate the tires. I let the fronts take all the wear while the backs sit pretty. That way I only have to buy two ties at a time.
 
Yea I did that on my '83 Civic, only bought 2 because dad always only had 2 (his were RWD). Shop recommended 4 but my money so they put 2 Gislaved's up front. First weekend, light snow covered roads, I spun in front of a semi who luckily missed me. The all seasons with a lot of tread on the back just let go in same conditions.

I replaced them and got the matching Gislaved's for the rear. No issues after that. That was almost 40 years ago. I now get 4 winters for each car, my 3 season are matching and almost always within 3/32" front to back, corner to corner. When they get lower, replace all 4, repeat as needed.
Spinning out aside, those Gislaveds were the bomb weren't they? We called them "dog bone tires" because of the tread pattern. Far better than the old Firestone Town and Country that we used before.
 
I respectfully disagree. While some of your hypothesis has some merit, most drivers don't know how to respond properly to an emergency loss of traction and will usually choose the natural reaction (panic) of lifting off the accelerator and hitting the brakes. In an oversteer situation (especially in the wet), this can prove to be quite disastrous. Cars are designed to respond safely to the lowest common denominator of driver and that most likely means it is set up to understeer. Good emergency response in an understeer situation is just what 99% of people will do, ie; lift the accelerator and brake. This produces weight transfer back to the front where more rolling friction can be applied, braking and steering are restored, and most can successfully avoid a crash. There is much, much more to be considered as well, but I'm going to leave it at this.

I do give kudos to @Hohn for producing an opposing argument and respect his viewpoint.
 
Can't say I agree with the OP's assertions. When looking at all the types of accidents where traffic injuries and fatalities most often occur, where loss of control is a factor, avoiding oversteer is the most important tire traction factor. When the back end comes around, that's when folks get hurt and die. Sliding straight into the back end of someone is much less likely to maim or kill. It's much more likely for rollovers to occur when the rears lose traction.
 
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