The Corolla Prizms

[KitaCam]

Supton....
RE Camry's oil consumption overheating issues for the 2.4 engine:

2002-2004 headbolt problems redesigned for 2005/2006 (few problem reports after 2004)
2007-2009 clogging piston drain holes redesigned for 2010-2011 (2.4 engine replaced in 2012 with the 2.5 engine that has no such issues).

 

[supton]

2.4 was replaced in 2011, as I have a 2011 with the 2.5. Good motor so far, but of course it is too early to know.

Sounds like 2005-6 2.4 is ok then, or pre-2002 with the timing belt 2.2? Good to know.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: supton
2.4 was replaced in 2011, as I have a 2011 with the 2.5. Good motor so far, but of course it is too early to know.

Sounds like 2005-6 2.4 is ok then, or pre-2002 with the timing belt 2.2? Good to know.
Yeah the 01 and older was the 2.2L timing belt motor. Non interference and not hard to change so you can't really go wrong. I've heard nothing but good from those engines (except for sludge but that isn't so bad), it's what my Camry had. I took off the valve cover at 186k and it was clean. Definitely no power house but I don't need a lot of power.

 

[supton]

What did you get for mpg? Fuelly indicates mid 20's. Not sure it is worth the cost if all I got was 30mpg.

 

[Nick1994]

My 97' automatic Camry got 23-24 mpg commuting around town with a little highway.

At 80mph in the mountains last summer going up to Montana I had the cruise control set and it got 33 mpg average. With A/C

My best tank was when I went 60-65 mph no cruise control or A/C, plenty of mountains and it was a 210 mile round trip I got 36.72 mpg. I probably could have squeezed it to 37.

What was funny is the EPA rated it to 28 mpg highway.

 

[Nick1994]

Just drove the FJ Cruiser, 50 mph in 5th gear is 2100 RPMs, 6th gear is 1,700. Not as close as I thought they'd be but up hill it doesn't make hardly any difference in acceleration.

 

[Shrubitup]

Originally Posted By: supton
The most consumption I've seen is a quart per hundred miles. In threads that is. Seems most give up around the 500 mile mark--either rebuild or sell.

I want to say that once the oil control rings seize the cylinder wall starts to wear--which drops compression, power and sets the light eventually. Not good. Well for, as I have to pass OBDII emissions inspection.


If consumption isn't too bad then just deal with it. For example you can buy a quart of Valvoline MaxLife 20W-50 for a $1.57 at O'Reiley's all day long (behind the counter). That's roughly half the cost of a gallon of gasoline and only need to add it every 1,000 miles... the cost is negligible. As you fear however it could get worse - obviously you want to find one with consumption that just only started.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Shrubitup
Originally Posted By: supton
The most consumption I've seen is a quart per hundred miles. In threads that is. Seems most give up around the 500 mile mark--either rebuild or sell.

I want to say that once the oil control rings seize the cylinder wall starts to wear--which drops compression, power and sets the light eventually. Not good. Well for, as I have to pass OBDII emissions inspection.


If consumption isn't too bad then just deal with it. For example you can buy a quart of Valvoline MaxLife 20W-50 for a $1.57 at O'Reiley's all day long (behind the counter). That's roughly half the cost of a gallon of gasoline and only need to add it every 1,000 miles... the cost is negligible. As you fear however it could get worse - obviously you want to find one with consumption that just only started.


I found a 3AT locally with about 100k on the clock, but the guy owned for a year and only put 2k onto it? Sketchy. Reading between the lines it sounds like a qt per 1k. But the photos look low rust, unlike the higher mile examples.

Oil is cheap, yes, but gotta pass emissions. I could put on a cheapo cat and monkey withe rear cat if beed be.

20w50 is not a good idea, or so I've read. The problem is poor oil draining, and using a thicker oil is going to clog those holes faster I'd think. Thinner might be better, for faster draining. Maybe...

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
My 97' automatic Camry got 23-24 mpg commuting around town with a little highway.

At 80mph in the mountains last summer going up to Montana I had the cruise control set and it got 33 mpg average. With A/C

My best tank was when I went 60-65 mph no cruise control or A/C, plenty of mountains and it was a 210 mile round trip I got 36.72 mpg. I probably could have squeezed it to 37.

What was funny is the EPA rated it to 28 mpg highway.


I know the procedure has changed, but I wonder if tires today have less drag than in years past? Pretty big jump over the "old" EPA method.

 

[Shrubitup]

Originally Posted By: supton


20w50 is not a good idea, or so I've read. The problem is poor oil draining, and using a thicker oil is going to clog those holes faster I'd think. Thinner might be better, for faster draining. Maybe...


Was thinking it a good grade to use for top fill purposes and just use OEM grade for actual changes. Haha but in 5,000 miles with 5 qrts of top fill you now have 20W50 as your oil that you D&F with OEM grade. Suppose just use OEM grade as top fill as its price per quart using say SuperTech is around $2-3/quart. Oh no! I just doubled your oil bill.

 

[supton]

Oil is cheap for this. I am paying over five bucks for TGMO. But that is cheap too. I *was* paying over nine for the VW.

I would aim for about 20k/year, so 20 quarts is cheap, if annoying. 40 quarts (one every 500miles) is cheap but....

 

[Nick1994]

In your area, how do they do emissions for cars like these? Here, 1996 and newer just get plugged in and scanned for check engine lights. 1995 and older is put on a "dyno" style machine with a thing up the tail pipe.

If it plugs the catalytic converter they sell them for $60-$100 on Amazon, I can't imagine it being more than $50-$60 for it to be installed at a local muffler shop.

I just can't see how a car like these could possibly cost even half as much to maintain as a VW. Then it's a win-win situation. If the transmission blows, I got a weekend project to do and can get a junkyard transmission with a 1 year warranty for $150. If that were the VW, it would be thousands of $$$.

 

[supton]

Plugged and scanned. Have to drive long enough to set readiness codes, so you can't just clear a code and expect to breeze through.

 

[supton]

Ok, drove a 2001 tonight, complete with 3AT.

Not too bad. The car was kinda of a flop, rust had not set in real bad, but it was there--gas tank straps and the unibody channel going to the rear bumper were pretty crusty. Had another year or two I'd guess. He had just done an oil change, but the ATF was nice and pink.

eljefino wasn't kidding. It went into top gear 20-25mph. Just as well, lug that engine down! The shifter wasn't the easiest to work for selecting 2nd but it's not that hard. It was pretty smooth I thought. Handling was on par with Jello, which is what I'd expect of a Corolla.

Had an interesting issue, which I'll post also elsewhere. After getting on it, then letting it decel in 2nd, it had a rapping sound. Piston slap? ping? I know it burned at least a qt per 1k, and the tailpipe was pretty sooty. Could be old gas for all I know, although it when I got on it the engine did not ping or give any problems.

 

[Nick1994]

That's strange, I've never heard that sound before. I know my Camry sounded pretty gross at idle, I'll post a link to the video I had of it. It took a couple test drives and hearing other ones in parking lots to realize that's just what they sound like. Maybe you need to test drive another one to see if it's just the nature of the beast or if something is wrong.

I'll probably test drive a Corolla this week to see how I like it. I'll try to pay attention to this.

http://youtu.be/UPAFBj1BiBA

 

[supton]

Yeah, it might just be this on vehicle. Did a bit of looking around, no conclusive answer but it might have been rod knock--makes sense, an oil burner might have wiped bearings.

I hope to drive some more, maybe tomorrow I'll drive another. Need to drive one on the highway, the real test of a car IMO.

Unfortunately I start like week 4 of driving a full sized vehicle...

which means, I'm probably losing my taste for small vehicles. This Corolla/Prizm was fine for bopping around small town life, not so sure about highway cruising.

 

[Nick1994]

Yeah highway driving is where it matters, as long as it doesn't drive like a kite on a windy day or the engine screaming it isn't too bad.

I wonder how "buzzy" the 3 speed would be on the highway.

 

[Nick1994]

Also I think it's good that you found an owner that admits about the oil consumption. I'm sure lots of people have no idea because they take their car into a quick lube for an oil change when due and never check it inbetween. I'd rather the owner tell me about it.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Also I think it's good that you found an owner that admits about the oil consumption. I'm sure lots of people have no idea because they take their car into a quick lube for an oil change when due and never check it inbetween. I'd rather the owner tell me about it.


One of the ones I am eyeing is an auction car, guy says he bougt to flip. So that one has no history, not sure what to make of that.

Found a different one, but it is 200 miles away so I'm not sure I will bother--UHauls websight says they want to inspect both the tow and towed vehicle? Also the owner put in tint, and I mght have to strip that out (need to check, but last I knew NH did not like).

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
My 97' automatic Camry got 23-24 mpg commuting around town with a little highway.

At 80mph in the mountains last summer going up to Montana I had the cruise control set and it got 33 mpg average. With A/C

My best tank was when I went 60-65 mph no cruise control or A/C, plenty of mountains and it was a 210 mile round trip I got 36.72 mpg. I probably could have squeezed it to 37.

What was funny is the EPA rated it to 28 mpg highway.


I know the procedure has changed, but I wonder if tires today have less drag than in years past? Pretty big jump over the "old" EPA method.


My Taurus used to be able to pull 34 on the highway and it was only rated for 26 or 27 I believe.