The Complete Brake Job
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which post has the pic of a stretched seal? those seals are made to stretch a little bit anyway.
Originally Posted By: benjamming
They might be just fine or not. How do the pads & rotors compare to original? How is your brake usage habits?
Usage habits haven't changed. The replacement front pads are on-track to last for 100k, just like the originals. The same problem is occuring with two different brands of pads, so it isn't a pad problem.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Did you check if the wear is the same on both sides? Did you try spinning the wheel while in the air to see how much drag there is, compare that to the other side or rear, check if the wheels get significantly hotter after normal driving (they should be warm and you should be able to keep your hand on the wheel without burning yourself).
25k to 30k while not steller is not too bad either and alone should not be taken as a fault in the system, if anything it should prompt you to check the system more carefully than a visual inspection.
The drag seems slightly more than the front IIRC, but nothing out-of-line. The wear is about equal between the inner and outer pads. There's about a 1-1.5mm difference between the two pads.
Originally Posted By: froggy81500
which post has the pic of a stretched seal? those seals are made to stretch a little bit anyway.
http://www.ucx.com/documents/preventmain.pdf
They might be just fine or not. How do the pads & rotors compare to original? How is your brake usage habits?
Usage habits haven't changed. The replacement front pads are on-track to last for 100k, just like the originals. The same problem is occuring with two different brands of pads, so it isn't a pad problem.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Did you check if the wear is the same on both sides? Did you try spinning the wheel while in the air to see how much drag there is, compare that to the other side or rear, check if the wheels get significantly hotter after normal driving (they should be warm and you should be able to keep your hand on the wheel without burning yourself).
25k to 30k while not steller is not too bad either and alone should not be taken as a fault in the system, if anything it should prompt you to check the system more carefully than a visual inspection.
The drag seems slightly more than the front IIRC, but nothing out-of-line. The wear is about equal between the inner and outer pads. There's about a 1-1.5mm difference between the two pads.
Originally Posted By: froggy81500
which post has the pic of a stretched seal? those seals are made to stretch a little bit anyway.
http://www.ucx.com/documents/preventmain.pdf
look closely at the fingers and thumbs in both pics showing the seal. Look at the one that looks stretched. You can see the tips of his fingers and thumbs are whiter because he is putting pressure on it to make it look stretched. he is applying finger pressure onto it to bulge out like that
Could somebody find time to explain to me how changing the fluid leads to eternal life for the boots that never see the fluid until the old, worn seals leak?
Originally Posted By: labman
Could somebody find time to explain to me how changing the fluid leads to eternal life for the boots that never see the fluid until the old, worn seals leak?
The labman of forums past is ALIVE, I tell you, ALIVE!
Could somebody find time to explain to me how changing the fluid leads to eternal life for the boots that never see the fluid until the old, worn seals leak?
The labman of forums past is ALIVE, I tell you, ALIVE!
Yes, and still waiting.
yes i will gladly replace over a grand in calipers on a brake job, right....
Originally Posted By: labman
Could somebody find time to explain to me how changing the fluid leads to eternal life for the boots that never see the fluid until the old, worn seals leak?
I'm going to type more slowly now. My contention is that a "stretched boot" that isn't leaking isn't an issue. When the caliper hangs or the seal leaks, it's time for a rebuild. Rebuilding or replacing calipers on some sort of scheduled basis (or perhaps for each brake job) is a waste of time, effort, and money.
My comments on changing the brake fluid were in response to your laughable suggestion that fluid somehow doesn't need to be replaced and that your shop somehow never heard of the necessity of periodically flushing brake fluid.
Could somebody find time to explain to me how changing the fluid leads to eternal life for the boots that never see the fluid until the old, worn seals leak?
I'm going to type more slowly now. My contention is that a "stretched boot" that isn't leaking isn't an issue. When the caliper hangs or the seal leaks, it's time for a rebuild. Rebuilding or replacing calipers on some sort of scheduled basis (or perhaps for each brake job) is a waste of time, effort, and money.
My comments on changing the brake fluid were in response to your laughable suggestion that fluid somehow doesn't need to be replaced and that your shop somehow never heard of the necessity of periodically flushing brake fluid.
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
My comments on changing the brake fluid were in response to your laughable suggestion that fluid somehow doesn't need to be replaced and that your shop somehow never heard of the necessity of periodically flushing brake fluid.
fact is, most vehicles end up in the junkyard with its original fill of brake fluid. I've never changed the brake fluid in any vehicle I've ever owned in the last 20 years. About the closest thing to replacing it was major brake work involving replacing rotted brake lines, or other times they needed to be bled.
But I have to agree with you on that brake fluid, by its chemical nature, absorbs water. One of the reasons why my dad told me never to use brake fluid from a bottle that has already been sitting open for a period of time. but how often is the brake fluid cap opened on a car for it to really absorb moisture? Usually not that long and not that often. then there is synthetic brake fluid out there. I don't know anything about the stuff but I'd have to imagine it stays "healthier" a lot longer than regular brake fluid.
My comments on changing the brake fluid were in response to your laughable suggestion that fluid somehow doesn't need to be replaced and that your shop somehow never heard of the necessity of periodically flushing brake fluid.
fact is, most vehicles end up in the junkyard with its original fill of brake fluid. I've never changed the brake fluid in any vehicle I've ever owned in the last 20 years. About the closest thing to replacing it was major brake work involving replacing rotted brake lines, or other times they needed to be bled.
But I have to agree with you on that brake fluid, by its chemical nature, absorbs water. One of the reasons why my dad told me never to use brake fluid from a bottle that has already been sitting open for a period of time. but how often is the brake fluid cap opened on a car for it to really absorb moisture? Usually not that long and not that often. then there is synthetic brake fluid out there. I don't know anything about the stuff but I'd have to imagine it stays "healthier" a lot longer than regular brake fluid.
Actually the higher the DOT rating the faster the fluid absorbs water. The DOT3 fluids are made for everyday cars, they don't have the highest boiling points but don't absorb water as fast. The DOT 4 and 5 fluids have much higher boiling point for racing applications, but have to be changed more often.
I flushed my brake fluid at 3 years and about 50k miles, it looked like a light tea, and if you looked at it through a transparent bottle you could see dissolved stuff (probably water) floating in the fluid, just like you can see dissolved sugar in water, and this is on a car that I owned since new and the brake system has not been opened once. So the fluid does not stay as fresh as some may think
I flushed my brake fluid at 3 years and about 50k miles, it looked like a light tea, and if you looked at it through a transparent bottle you could see dissolved stuff (probably water) floating in the fluid, just like you can see dissolved sugar in water, and this is on a car that I owned since new and the brake system has not been opened once. So the fluid does not stay as fresh as some may think
I do have to admit that the Botch ABS systems may be so sensitive to moisture and dirt, that you need to change the fluid prematurely. I have had 2 cars with the GM system, and both of them went maybe 5 years with no trouble until I rebuilt the calipers and wheel cylinders. Otherwise, the fluid will last until lost in preventative maintenance or when something leaks. Changing fluid is a newer idea unheard of before Botch and their ABS units. It was the early 90's I was working in the brake shop.
As long as modern cars last now, I doubt many of them make it to the junkyard with the factory fill. It you neglect the calipers and wheel cylinders, eventually they will leak. Thinking all you need to do is change the fluid is a joke. Anybody that has ever taken a caliper apart should know that.
As I pointed out, master cylinders last much longer. The one on my truck was working fine, but after 31 years, I didn't trust it any more and bought a rebuilt one, cheaper than a kit.
As long as modern cars last now, I doubt many of them make it to the junkyard with the factory fill. It you neglect the calipers and wheel cylinders, eventually they will leak. Thinking all you need to do is change the fluid is a joke. Anybody that has ever taken a caliper apart should know that.
As I pointed out, master cylinders last much longer. The one on my truck was working fine, but after 31 years, I didn't trust it any more and bought a rebuilt one, cheaper than a kit.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Actually the higher the DOT rating the faster the fluid absorbs water. The DOT3 fluids are made for everyday cars, they don't have the highest boiling points but don't absorb water as fast. The DOT 4 and 5 fluids have much higher boiling point for racing applications, but have to be changed more often.
That doesn't make much sense to me. I would think having less moisture attraction would actually raise the boiling point because water would boil at a lower temperature than a hydraulic fluid like brake fluid. Please explain because you've piqued my curiousity.
Actually the higher the DOT rating the faster the fluid absorbs water. The DOT3 fluids are made for everyday cars, they don't have the highest boiling points but don't absorb water as fast. The DOT 4 and 5 fluids have much higher boiling point for racing applications, but have to be changed more often.
That doesn't make much sense to me. I would think having less moisture attraction would actually raise the boiling point because water would boil at a lower temperature than a hydraulic fluid like brake fluid. Please explain because you've piqued my curiousity.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Here is a good link, a little old but still applies.
Differences in brake fluids
thank you, i will definately check it out. just getting started on a remodeling project in one of the kids' rooms so I will have to look at it later.
Here is a good link, a little old but still applies.
Differences in brake fluids
thank you, i will definately check it out. just getting started on a remodeling project in one of the kids' rooms so I will have to look at it later.
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