Brakes Dragging Part II - More Questions...

[Jelly]

(If you weren't around for the discussion before...basically, my front left brake is dragging.)

Well, basically I've figured out the problem...after applying the brakes, the piston is not retracting back into the caliper, causing the brakes to drag.

Guess this means I have a bad caliper?

If so, I do have a question. When disconnecting the brake line from the old caliper and connecting it to a new one, how do you stop the flow of fluid out of the brake line?

Also, when purchasing a new caliper (only around $15 from Autozone), does it come with everything (seals, etc..) minus the pads and bolts?

Thanks.

 

[mrchecker]

If you're certain that the caliper is free to slide back and forth on whatever retaining system it uses, I'd guess it's the caliper. The internally torn brake hose acting as a check valve theory is highly unlikely, but while you have the caliper off, you might as well replace the brake hose too. I don't worry about losing brake fluid while changing a caliper. The system has to be bled anyway, and flushing it isn't a bad idea either. You will get a fully assembled remanufactured caliper for your $15. No bolts and pads.

[ October 09, 2003, 08:01 PM: Message edited by: mrchecker ]

 

[Jelly]

Here's what happens...basically, after appling the brakes, the left side drags, and will continue to drag (actually pulling the vehicle to the left) for a mile or so, and then it will continue to drag, but not enough to pull the vehicle (will hold vehicle on incline, etc...). When you stop, you have three things.

Lots of brake dust
Lots of brake smell
Lots of HEAT!

Does that help diagnose the problem?

How easy should the caliper slide on the bolts? Right now, it's not exactly free moving (not as if it is floating), but I can move it back and forth pretty easy...I'll probably grease them up really good though when I take the caliper off.

OH, also, when I flush, I don't need to do the whole system right...just the one wheel??

[ October 09, 2003, 11:04 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]

 

[thrace]

quote:

---

Also, when purchasing a new caliper (only around $15 from Autozone), does it come with everything (seals, etc..) minus the pads and bolts?

---

Correct. There is a core deposit of about $20. Pay $35 plus tax and get $20 back when returning the caliper.

quote:

---

how do you stop the flow of fluid out of the brake line

---

Keep the cap on the master cylinder. It will drip some so plan what you do and put it together quickly. There are 2 copper washers usually, one for between the hose and the caliper and one under the bolt and the end of the hose. Washers crush to make a good seal. Do not let the caliper hang by the hose.

quote:

---

when I flush, I don't need to do the whole system

---

Do the whole system is better.

 

[cousincletus]

I have found that flexible brake hoses go bad more often than the calipers. But if you have your mind set on replacing the caliper, then definitely replace the rubber hose too. If it were my car, I would replace the hose first and see what happens before replacing the caliper.

 

[labman]

It has been my experience hoses will last at least 10 years. In one failure mode they can work like one way valves, fluid goes in the caliper, but does not come out.

I do not belong to the rebuild/replace every pad change school of thought, but calipers do eventually go bad, either leaking or jamming because the piston corroded or swelled. Many shops insist on rebuilding the calipers on a pad change. Cleaning up the outside and replacing hardware needs to be done every pad change. The calipers must slide on their mounts freely.