The Accord needs another brake caliper

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I recently performed a front pad job on a 2012 Accord coupe. What I noticed was the inside front pads were way too tight. The ears were stuck solid on the clips. Maybe it was rust? Nope. Same problem with the new (Akebono) pads. Way too tight for proper movement. No doubt they would have dragged if I left it like that. I filed the ears down a little bit, much better. Normal. Also noticed someone used standard grease on the slide pins. Was hard as a rock. That would also cause a problem. Cleaned and replaced with sil glyde. Brakes were good after that. No more sticking.
 
Originally Posted by gregk24
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
Do you use your parking brake? Non-use of the parking brake often causes rear caliper failure.

Raybestos does make their Opt-Cal calipers for your Accord. They are completely new, not reman, and no core charge.


I use the parking brake every time the car is put into park.


I think specifically, the parking brake needs to be exercised, not just used. If someone never uses it, or parks for long periods of times with it on, the results are similar and not good.
 
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
I recently performed a front pad job on a 2012 Accord coupe. What I noticed was the inside front pads were way too tight. The ears were stuck solid on the clips. Maybe it was rust? Nope. Same problem with the new (Akebono) pads. Way too tight for proper movement. No doubt they would have dragged if I left it like that. I filed the ears down a little bit, much better. Normal. Also noticed someone used standard grease on the slide pins. Was hard as a rock. That would also cause a problem. Cleaned and replaced with sil glyde. Brakes were good after that. No more sticking.

Hondas tend to be picky with brakes - OEM pads are the way to go if you want to forego installation drama.

I love how parts store guys push for Permatex or CRC brake lube when in reality it can cause trouble with the slide pins. Sil-Glyde is probably the "universal" lube. Honda calls for a silicone grease to be applied, while Toyota and Subaru call for a "glycol lithium soap grease" for their sliders.
 
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
I recently performed a front pad job on a 2012 Accord coupe. What I noticed was the inside front pads were way too tight. The ears were stuck solid on the clips. Maybe it was rust? Nope. Same problem with the new (Akebono) pads. Way too tight for proper movement. No doubt they would have dragged if I left it like that. I filed the ears down a little bit, much better. Normal. Also noticed someone used standard grease on the slide pins. Was hard as a rock. That would also cause a problem. Cleaned and replaced with sil glyde. Brakes were good after that. No more sticking.

Hondas tend to be picky with brakes - OEM pads are the way to go if you want to forego installation drama.

I love how parts store guys push for Permatex or CRC brake lube when in reality it can cause trouble with the slide pins. Sil-Glyde is probably the "universal" lube. Honda calls for a silicone grease to be applied, while Toyota and Subaru call for a "glycol lithium soap grease" for their sliders.

Exactly what happened to my truck several years ago. Front right caliper locked up a few months after front brakes. The CRC brake grease (recommended by AZ) heated up and dried into a hardened solid mass. i had a hard time just pulling the pin out
 
I've never been impressed with later model Honda brake parts having been through early issues myself, but needing a full caliper replacement on a vehicle that isn't even 10yrs old would be rare even for my crapola climate.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Originally Posted by gregk24
Last year my 2012 Accord needed a new brake caliper due to it being stuck on a regular basis. Well, now the right rear caliper needs replacing as well. Going to have the right rear wheel bearing replaced at the same time since it has been making a bit of noise for the last year or so. I drive very little so I have let it go for a while *shame on me*. The car only has 54K miles, not sure why the calipers are going out at such low mileage.


Do you get rust from being near the ocean? I would take the caliper apart and see what it is sticking. Flush the brake fluid. You can rebuild calipers, its pretty easy. Rusty parts need to be replaced rather than wire brushed.


No, no rusting.
 
Originally Posted by LeakySeals

Exactly what happened to my truck several years ago. Front right caliper locked up a few months after front brakes. The CRC brake grease (recommended by AZ) heated up and dried into a hardened solid mass. i had a hard time just pulling the pin out

I cringe when I see a AZ/OR/PB counterperson sell that stuff. Luckily, AZ does carry Sil-Glyde at the counter. GM, Ford and Honda seem to be happy with Dow 111.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by LeakySeals

Exactly what happened to my truck several years ago. Front right caliper locked up a few months after front brakes. The CRC brake grease (recommended by AZ) heated up and dried into a hardened solid mass. i had a hard time just pulling the pin out

I cringe when I see a AZ/OR/PB counterperson sell that stuff. Luckily, AZ does carry Sil-Glyde at the counter. GM, Ford and Honda seem to be happy with Dow 111.


Believe that Dow 111 is also a thick silicone grease, no?
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Believe that Dow 111 is also a thick silicone grease, no?

I looked into this a month ago. If memory serves, I believe that Dow 111 is an NLGI grade 3 vs. 3M Silicone Brake grease is grade 2. Maybe too thick? I will check my notes.

EDIT: I was wrong. The 3M brake grease lists NLGI grade = 3. the Dow 111 lists NLGI grade = 3 - 4, still a bit thicker than 3M

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/889069O/3mtm-silicone-paste-clear-08946-8-oz.pdf
https://www.lubricantspecialty.com/product/molykote-111-compound
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by gregk24
Last year my 2012 Accord needed a new brake caliper due to it being stuck on a regular basis. Well, now the right rear caliper needs replacing as well. Going to have the right rear wheel bearing replaced at the same time since it has been making a bit of noise for the last year or so. I drive very little so I have let it go for a while *shame on me*. The car only has 54K miles, not sure why the calipers are going out at such low mileage.


Disuse?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Balrog006
Originally Posted by gregk24
Last year my 2012 Accord needed a new brake caliper due to it being stuck on a regular basis. Well, now the right rear caliper needs replacing as well. Going to have the right rear wheel bearing replaced at the same time since it has been making a bit of noise for the last year or so. I drive very little so I have let it go for a while *shame on me*. The car only has 54K miles, not sure why the calipers are going out at such low mileage.


Disuse?


Well, let me clarify. I put FEW MILES on my car. It gets driven at least 5 days a week, so the calipers get exercised.
 
New caliper and wheel bearing installed, no more humming from the bad bearing. I had the brake fluid changed also since it was due.
 
Originally Posted by gregk24
New caliper and wheel bearing installed, no more humming from the bad bearing. I had the brake fluid changed also since it was due.


Did you know what brand caliper and how much did they charge if you don't mind me asking? Thanks!
 
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Originally Posted by gregk24
New caliper and wheel bearing installed, no more humming from the bad bearing. I had the brake fluid changed also since it was due.


Did you know what brand caliper and how much did they charge if you don't mind me asking? Thanks!


Honda OEM and in the $300 range.
 
Originally Posted by gregk24
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Originally Posted by gregk24
New caliper and wheel bearing installed, no more humming from the bad bearing. I had the brake fluid changed also since it was due.


Did you know what brand caliper and how much did they charge if you don't mind me asking? Thanks!


Honda OEM and in the $300 range.


Edit: is it the OEM part and my cost per invoice was $204.96.
 
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