You should be able to "rent" them in AutoZone or buy them in Harbor Freight. The one in HF doesn't last and the bit snapped after a couple uses.
That little retaining screw in the brake disc?
- Thread starter Rust_Belt_Pete
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If I run into one of those screws that are really stubborn, I use my driver that you hit with a hammer. Never had one that it wouldn’t break loose.
Love how well JIS screwdrivers work. Tempted to buy a bunch more of them.
All cars I own, I try to take apart the brakes every spring and make sure everything is working. If it's a new to me car, then the rotors have to come off and anti-seize goes onto the hub. Zero interest in fighting stuff. That includes that little screw. I keep the screw, it is nice to have, as long as it's removable.
All cars I own, I try to take apart the brakes every spring and make sure everything is working. If it's a new to me car, then the rotors have to come off and anti-seize goes onto the hub. Zero interest in fighting stuff. That includes that little screw. I keep the screw, it is nice to have, as long as it's removable.
Impact driver is the best way to deal with these. I’ve never had one strip. When the neighbor kid stripped on on his car, I drilled the head off and ground what was left flat. As stated above, I’d only fix it on a lug bolt vehicle.
Hmm, never had to drill those out, some did need encouragement of impact screwdriver thou.
They make it very easy when you put new rotors on with brake jobs, holding rotor in place.
They make it very easy when you put new rotors on with brake jobs, holding rotor in place.
Impact driver with regular #3 or #2 Phillips quickly makes them where you need to drill. I had that on other vehicles where others "tried" and then damaged. Sometimes I got lucky with the JIS, other times had to be drilled.
The Vessel JIS has worked well for me as it's a controlled impact with just me hitting it if needed not repeated impacts with bit possibly coming out some.
That is of course in my driveway, small scale, me sitting on the ground not a shop doing it all the time on a lift.
I used a light impact on those rotor retention screws on my Mini and and other cars that use them.
I have an impact driver (like one for driving deck screws) with a 3/8 adapter for sockets. It’s light duty enough to remove the screw without tearing it up. I’ve been successful at taking them out this way.
There also exists an impact hand tool to do this as well. When struck with a hammer the socket on the end rotates a bit and breaks it loose. Less expensive than a power impact for sure.
As for lining up wheels on lug bolt cars (German cars or German-designed British cars like a Mini), I got a set of lug stud tools. They have the right thread on the end of a long stud and screw in by hand. Then the wheel goes on in the right alignment and you can run the lug bolts down. Not very expensive either.
Where? Harbor Freight or Amazon are good places to look.
I have an impact driver (like one for driving deck screws) with a 3/8 adapter for sockets. It’s light duty enough to remove the screw without tearing it up. I’ve been successful at taking them out this way.
There also exists an impact hand tool to do this as well. When struck with a hammer the socket on the end rotates a bit and breaks it loose. Less expensive than a power impact for sure.
As for lining up wheels on lug bolt cars (German cars or German-designed British cars like a Mini), I got a set of lug stud tools. They have the right thread on the end of a long stud and screw in by hand. Then the wheel goes on in the right alignment and you can run the lug bolts down. Not very expensive either.
Where? Harbor Freight or Amazon are good places to look.
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I've seen YouTubes where it can't be removed even in a shop, good thinking. My Lexus lacks them and interestingly nothing holds the rotor onto the hubs other than the brake pads when installed. But the other two cars have the set screws. Wife's car they did come off easily at age 7, and I slathered anti seize on them. The other car I believe I did the same when it was 8 years old....
ALWAYS reach for my ancient Snap-On hand impact I have when doing brake jobs with these retaining screws. Impact socket with #3 JIS anti-cammer and a 4lb. sledge, they don't stand a chance. Rarely had to drill one. I use a wheel pin with my Euro vehicles' wheels anyway and makes these screws kinda moot.
Hey I have a mini and that is a BIG fat screw in there and I have no problems with it.I used a light impact on those rotor retention screws on my Mini and and other cars that use them.
I have an impact driver (like one for driving deck screws) with a 3/8 adapter for sockets. It’s light duty enough to remove the screw without tearing it up. I’ve been successful at taking them out this way.
There also exists an impact hand tool to do this as well. When struck with a hammer the socket on the end rotates a bit and breaks it loose. Less expensive than a power impact for sure.
As for lining up wheels on lug bolt cars (German cars or German-designed British cars like a Mini), I got a set of lug stud tools. They have the right thread on the end of a long stud and screw in by hand. Then the wheel goes on in the right alignment and you can run the lug bolts down. Not very expensive either.
Where? Harbor Freight or Amazon are good places to look.
My aunts chevy and my wife's Lincoln? They are little dinky sh--y little screws that snap as soon as you look at them funny and you are stuck drilling them out and dressing the **** hole.
I never needed the stud on the jeep. you can hang the wheel on the lip and turn it slightly to line up the hole.
if I was running something backbreaking weight I definitely would have bought the tool.
I have always kept the screws unless they were in bad shape. Milwaukee m12 wimp(nonfuel) impact does a good job on them with the right bit.
A tiny amount of anti-seize if I have it handy.
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Stupid me, I had to drill out a GM fender liner screw (you know the ones that are innocent, have a torx head, but cost $4 ea). I used a left handed bit set and it worked. But there are no threads it's like a wood screw. I have had bad luck before on trying with "real" screws such as this set screw (plumbing)
The easier option is to use an impact JIS driver like the Vessel Impacta and just never put the screws back in since they serve no purpose once the car leaves the factory.
On applications like the KL Cherokee with lug bolts they are kinda nice. With the caliper removed, the rotor can fall off but even worse is the rotor rotating independently -- then you'll never get a bolt started.
For whatever reason more manufacturers are going to lug bolts including several recent Toyota models.
Man, I was doing brakes with a friend a long time ago, before this screw was common. He had put so much anti-seize on the wheel to rotor surface that you couldn't see there was a screw somewhere. I beat the hell out of that rotor before connecting the dots
