That little retaining screw in the brake disc?

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

What is the point of that little retaining screw to hold the brake disc down to the hub that always has to be snapped off or drilled out due to rust?
What does it do? I thought that lug nuts and the wheel already did its job?

 

[SHOZ]

As I understand it's for when the car is rolling down the assembly line before tires. I just use a 1/4" drill bit and drill off the head.

 

[kschachn]

On my VW and my old BMW with lug bolts it holds the disc in place so you can get the bolts started. Without it the disc can rotate covering up the holes in the hub.

 

[SHOZ]

On my VW and my old BMW with lug bolts it holds the disc in place so you can get the bolts started. Without it the disc can rotate covering up the holes in the hub.

Those are a lot harder to get started while holding up the wheel.

 

[64bawagon]

@SHOZ is correct. I typically remove the screw during my first tire rotation on a new vehicle and coat the screw with anti seize before reinstalling it. Never had an issue after that. If the OEM's cared they would buy those screw with a coating so I wouldnt have to do that. After one winters worth of salt up here they are welded in if not coated.

 

[joekingcorvette]

I have spent a lot of time drilling out those silly screws on my Honda Civic.

 

[JeffKeryk]

A little anti-seize and toss any that are messed up. And they do not need to be gorilla tight...

 

[930.engineering]

I typically remove the screw during my first tire rotation on a new vehicle and coat the screw with anti seize before reinstalling it. Never had an issue after that. If the OEM's cared they would buy those screw with a coating so I wouldnt have to do that. After one winters worth of salt up here they are welded in if not coated.

Antiseize is generally a good idea for this application. However, removing that little retaining screw depends on the manufacturer. Last year I did my Mini Cooper's very first brake job after 12 years including winter use and lots of salt. I expected 'some' issues, but there aren't. Mini uses a fairly large Torx T50 retaining screw and it was a joy to remove. Way better than tiny hex screws (Volkswagen, do you hear me?). And yes of course, I used new OE Torx screws on all four corners and some antiseize.
.

 

[brages]

I think it makes a brake job a little easier - holds the rotor in place while you're putting the caliper on. You could do the same thing with a lug nut but an acorn nut probably wouldn't work well.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

As I understand it's for when the car is rolling down the assembly line before tires. I just use a 1/4" drill bit and drill off the head.

Dont they make special stud tools to put on the wheels any way for that?

 

[Sequoiasoon]

I just swapped pads on the Pilot. I had used some anti-seize on them first tire swap when we got the truck. I checked them this time, they came off nice and easy also using the correct screwdriver. Vessel Impacta #3 JIS

This is different than a phillips. It also rotates when hit by hammer (or small sledge). A little counter clockwise pressure, hand sledge and they normally pop free even if in a long time. Once you mess up the head with the wrong screwdriver, all bets are off. That thing has worked awesome for me on vehicles that were not treated prior.

 

[D60]

I don't hate these, but they can be problematic. We don't get a lot of rust.

I specifically ordered M6 and M8 replacements to keep in my "Misc Brake" drawer. They're nearly impossible and/or expensive to obtain locally, but you can buy a bag of 10 for cheap -- not that I'm necessarily advocating for keeping them if you don't want to.

 

[CarlB]

I just swapped pads on the Pilot. I had used some anti-seize on them first tire swap when we got the truck. I checked them this time, they came off nice and easy also using the correct screwdriver. Vessel Impacta #3 JIS

This is different than a phillips. It also rotates when hit by hammer (or small sledge). A little counter clockwise pressure, hand sledge and they normally pop free even if in a long time. Once you mess up the head with the wrong screwdriver, all bets are off. That thing has worked awesome for me on vehicles that were not treated prior.

Yep! JIS vs Phillips is something unknown to many. That's a great impacting screwdriver though. I also use it for these screws.

 

[barryh]

We should be thankful that those little screws are not made from high grade steel. My last one drilled out very easily indeed but not before I snapped a Torx bit trying to undue it.

 

[Trav]

Yep! JIS vs Phillips is something unknown to many. That's a great impacting screwdriver though. I also use it for these screws.

JIS is easily identified by the single dot on the head.

 

[CarlB]

JIS is easily identified by the single dot on the head.

View attachment 236619

JIS drivers are also compatible with Phillips. You can just use JIS instead of Phillips.

 

[burbguy82]

And they do not need to be gorilla tight...

You know, I have thought of that before. Leaving fasteners just snug. In my limited experience, having a fastener more than hand tight, say 20lbs, helps with corrosion build up between the male and female threads.

In other words ,bolt have been removed "cleaner" than ones that are just snug.

Might not be right, It just seems that way to me.

In this case brake dust would be a thing.

 

[paulo57509]

The only time I've R&R'ed wheels on a BMW was on an old 320i. I found a pilot tool in the emergency tool kit that's used to help line up the wheel and hub holes for the lug bolts. I don't know if they still provide this.

I've never had trouble with those disc retaining screws. I just go right for the hammer driven impact driver.

 

[Zenon]

Vessel JIS is your best friend in rust belt!

 

[Chris142]

you need that screw on cars that use lug bolts instead of studs and nuts.